Discussion
Just top it up yourself, if you need some coolant, just go to your local Halfords or equivalent and either ask or look in the little leaflet's they have by the various products.
In mine though, the coolant light came on and it turned out to be a blown head gasket at 50'000 miles due to a failed waterpump - the temp gauge didn't ever rise above normal but I lost coolant all the time... expensive problem, and now that's fixed I am having to replace all 4 lambda sensors as well as the coolant damaged them too.
So in short, fill it up yourself, but keep a close eye on it.
In mine though, the coolant light came on and it turned out to be a blown head gasket at 50'000 miles due to a failed waterpump - the temp gauge didn't ever rise above normal but I lost coolant all the time... expensive problem, and now that's fixed I am having to replace all 4 lambda sensors as well as the coolant damaged them too.
So in short, fill it up yourself, but keep a close eye on it.
SpeedIsProgress said:
Just top it up yourself, if you need some coolant, just go to your local Halfords or equivalent and either ask or look in the little leaflet's they have by the various products.
In mine though, the coolant light came on and it turned out to be a blown head gasket at 50'000 miles due to a failed waterpump - the temp gauge didn't ever rise above normal but I lost coolant all the time... expensive problem, and now that's fixed I am having to replace all 4 lambda sensors as well as the coolant damaged them too.
So in short, fill it up yourself, but keep a close eye on it.
I had a similar problem - coolant light came on and I had to keep topping it up. Turned out to be a broken water pump too, thankfully got that fixed before anything serious happened. Like SpeedIsProgress, my temp guage never moved and the only clue was the lose of coolant.In mine though, the coolant light came on and it turned out to be a blown head gasket at 50'000 miles due to a failed waterpump - the temp gauge didn't ever rise above normal but I lost coolant all the time... expensive problem, and now that's fixed I am having to replace all 4 lambda sensors as well as the coolant damaged them too.
So in short, fill it up yourself, but keep a close eye on it.
The incorrect coolant may cause corrosion within the oil galleys etc.
If its only a small amount of coolant, you could just top up with water. Anything over 1/2 litre should require the correct antifreeze. Again, anything over 1/4 litre, and you may have a problem, keep a close eye.
Best to get the AF from your local BMW agent to ensure the correct is used.
If its only a small amount of coolant, you could just top up with water. Anything over 1/2 litre should require the correct antifreeze. Again, anything over 1/4 litre, and you may have a problem, keep a close eye.
Best to get the AF from your local BMW agent to ensure the correct is used.
No wonder BMW dealers are never poor! No need to buy BMW antifreeze. I can assure you that there is nothing special or clever about the BMW stuff except the price.
No coolant ever causes corrosion in the oil galleries. Lack of antifreeze (ie no antifreeze, just water) will cause corrosion to the waterways as antifreeze contains an anti corrosive.
Buy Holts universal coolant/antifreeze from any decent car shop and all will be fine. A 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water is good for any system topup.
Its quite correct to wonder about why you have lost coolant though. Look for telltale signs of water staining around the filler cap, water pump, hose ends etc. It may just be a leaky cap. It may be something more serious requiring immediate attention.
No coolant ever causes corrosion in the oil galleries. Lack of antifreeze (ie no antifreeze, just water) will cause corrosion to the waterways as antifreeze contains an anti corrosive.
Buy Holts universal coolant/antifreeze from any decent car shop and all will be fine. A 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water is good for any system topup.
Its quite correct to wonder about why you have lost coolant though. Look for telltale signs of water staining around the filler cap, water pump, hose ends etc. It may just be a leaky cap. It may be something more serious requiring immediate attention.
Talkwrench said:
No wonder BMW dealers are never poor! No need to buy BMW antifreeze. I can assure you that there is nothing special or clever about the BMW stuff except the price.
No coolant ever causes corrosion in the oil galleries. Lack of antifreeze (ie no antifreeze, just water) will cause corrosion to the waterways as antifreeze contains an anti corrosive.
Buy Holts universal coolant/antifreeze from any decent car shop and all will be fine. A 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water is good for any system topup.
Its quite correct to wonder about why you have lost coolant though. Look for telltale signs of water staining around the filler cap, water pump, hose ends etc. It may just be a leaky cap. It may be something more serious requiring immediate attention.
Talkwrench:No coolant ever causes corrosion in the oil galleries. Lack of antifreeze (ie no antifreeze, just water) will cause corrosion to the waterways as antifreeze contains an anti corrosive.
Buy Holts universal coolant/antifreeze from any decent car shop and all will be fine. A 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water is good for any system topup.
Its quite correct to wonder about why you have lost coolant though. Look for telltale signs of water staining around the filler cap, water pump, hose ends etc. It may just be a leaky cap. It may be something more serious requiring immediate attention.
May i pick your brain quickly please regarding the above:
My temp guage has ALWAYS never budged, and is just above half way. Now as it never moved I never worried about it.
I went to the Alpes a couple of months ago, three up, with the boot and the spare seat FULL of kit (so fairly well laden) and whilst climbing the Alpe D'Huez ascent (which I was looking forward to) the car was very quick, and pulled well.
However, as you'd expect, after 18 hairpinsit was a bit hot at the top, and the temp was bending the pin off!!! I turned the hot vent on, and cooled the car down - to which it cooled quickly enough - a couple of minutes say.
I was happy enough (there IS a vid of this ascent
) and thought nothing of it. However jumping in the car after a few days, the coolant light came on. It seems that it has sprung a leak, and it got me home happily enough with a couple of cautionary top ups.
I got back,whacked some radseal in there, and booked it in for its Inspection 2.
Upon the service, the Independant (well trusted) pointed out the radiator and a pipe was heavily swollen. I explained I'll monitor it, and do it if and when needed. The coolant was changed though as part of the I2.
Now the temp still sits at the same level, its never gone up or down, and the car happily coped with VMax, and several hoonings later, its still happy.
However, would you say it'll be ok, or should I get it sorted?
My guess is that you've probably not done the engine any harm. There are one or two models that are known to work on the limit in terms of pressure in the cooling system and I have encountered several radiators that have swollen completely out of shape. I have also had to change a couple of expansion tanks that have ballooned and split due to pressure.
I would change the expansion tank cap, just in case its the wrong one or is faulty. I would have expected it to release the pressure before the radiator was damaged. It looks like your cooling is marginal. This could be either a slightly blocked radiator or perhaps a thermostat not opening fully.
If your car is what I think it is, then you have an electric radiator fan - correct? I'm assuming that is ok as you never normally have cooling problems.
I'd definitely change both rad hoses. They will have suffered internal damage to their structure and will let go at the most inconvenient moment! I'd change the thermostat simply because it is a cheap item and changing it eliminates this from the list of possibilities. I would also change the radiator because it is only a matter of time before that starts leaking. Radweld will only hold for a finite time. A proper OEM rad from a specialist supplier shouldnt be more than about £100.
The fact that you've run Vmax etc and seen no problem with temperature levels would certainly indicate that the engine has survived its hot run and you've got off quite lightly!
I would change the expansion tank cap, just in case its the wrong one or is faulty. I would have expected it to release the pressure before the radiator was damaged. It looks like your cooling is marginal. This could be either a slightly blocked radiator or perhaps a thermostat not opening fully.
If your car is what I think it is, then you have an electric radiator fan - correct? I'm assuming that is ok as you never normally have cooling problems.
I'd definitely change both rad hoses. They will have suffered internal damage to their structure and will let go at the most inconvenient moment! I'd change the thermostat simply because it is a cheap item and changing it eliminates this from the list of possibilities. I would also change the radiator because it is only a matter of time before that starts leaking. Radweld will only hold for a finite time. A proper OEM rad from a specialist supplier shouldnt be more than about £100.
The fact that you've run Vmax etc and seen no problem with temperature levels would certainly indicate that the engine has survived its hot run and you've got off quite lightly!
Talkwrench said:
My guess is that you've probably not done the engine any harm. There are one or two models that are known to work on the limit in terms of pressure in the cooling system and I have encountered several radiators that have swollen completely out of shape. I have also had to change a couple of expansion tanks that have ballooned and split due to pressure.
I would change the expansion tank cap, just in case its the wrong one or is faulty. I would have expected it to release the pressure before the radiator was damaged. It looks like your cooling is marginal. This could be either a slightly blocked radiator or perhaps a thermostat not opening fully.
If your car is what I think it is, then you have an electric radiator fan - correct? I'm assuming that is ok as you never normally have cooling problems.
I'd definitely change both rad hoses. They will have suffered internal damage to their structure and will let go at the most inconvenient moment! I'd change the thermostat simply because it is a cheap item and changing it eliminates this from the list of possibilities. I would also change the radiator because it is only a matter of time before that starts leaking. Radweld will only hold for a finite time. A proper OEM rad from a specialist supplier shouldnt be more than about £100.
The fact that you've run Vmax etc and seen no problem with temperature levels would certainly indicate that the engine has survived its hot run and you've got off quite lightly!
Thanks Micheal, I appreciate your time writing that for me:I would change the expansion tank cap, just in case its the wrong one or is faulty. I would have expected it to release the pressure before the radiator was damaged. It looks like your cooling is marginal. This could be either a slightly blocked radiator or perhaps a thermostat not opening fully.
If your car is what I think it is, then you have an electric radiator fan - correct? I'm assuming that is ok as you never normally have cooling problems.
I'd definitely change both rad hoses. They will have suffered internal damage to their structure and will let go at the most inconvenient moment! I'd change the thermostat simply because it is a cheap item and changing it eliminates this from the list of possibilities. I would also change the radiator because it is only a matter of time before that starts leaking. Radweld will only hold for a finite time. A proper OEM rad from a specialist supplier shouldnt be more than about £100.
The fact that you've run Vmax etc and seen no problem with temperature levels would certainly indicate that the engine has survived its hot run and you've got off quite lightly!
Its a 328 - it's only badged a 316 for comedy reasons
The vid of the ascent is here if anyone is interested - the temp guage is shown right at the end after much hooliganism
I was told a replacement rad is about £200/250 - I've got air con?
Just checked the price from Northern Radiators and for a 1997 328 manual with air con, the price of a radiator with extended base (slightly bigger capacity than standard) is £85 + vat. That is an brand new OEM Behr radiator, complete with BMW logo on it! Fitting is fairly straightforward.
Talkwrench said:
Just checked the price from Northern Radiators and for a 1997 328 manual with air con, the price of a radiator with extended base (slightly bigger capacity than standard) is £85 + vat. That is an brand new OEM Behr radiator, complete with BMW logo on it! Fitting is fairly straightforward.
Bloody hell.
How much grief is it to do for a fairly basic minded spanner hand who is just getting into things like replacing brake discs and pads etc?
Not a bad job if you take it steady. Approach it logically and systematically and you shouldnt have a problem. Make sure you have everything you need before you start - Hoses, new clips, etc. Have some antifreeze/water mix ready for topping up. Even if you manage to save the coolant when you take off the bottom hose, youre bound to lose a fair amount. Bleeding the cooling system and topping up afterwards takes time and patience.
To give you a rough idea, I'd probably take about 45/60 minutes to do the complete job.
To give you a rough idea, I'd probably take about 45/60 minutes to do the complete job.
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