ADVICE NEEDED m52 losing oil
Discussion
Hi there,
I bought an e36 328 Nreg with 72k last month. There was a diff problem which has been temporarily fixed by changing the diff oil and the adding of a (Jeep)friction modifier additive (£2.50!).
I also performed a full service including new oil filter, spark plugs oil and coolant change as I do with all new secondhand cars I buy.
I have done about 1500miles since and noticed that the engine sounded tappety all of a sudden. I thought it was the cold weather but a few miles later it got louder. I stopped thengine immediatley and looked at the dip stick when it had sat for a while. It was just registering on the tip of the dipstick. BTW The oil warning light did not come on.
I topped up the oil and checked for any signs of an oil leak, if the sump plug was loose, but there was/is nothing.
The next logical step was to look for oil in the water or in the exhaust fumes. There is a touch of blue in the exhaust on start up but then its fine.
My guess is that there is some wear somewhere in the head and there is a small amount of oil being burned. My thought was the tappets due to the noise the other day but I can't see how this could be it?
Any thoughts?
I bought an e36 328 Nreg with 72k last month. There was a diff problem which has been temporarily fixed by changing the diff oil and the adding of a (Jeep)friction modifier additive (£2.50!).
I also performed a full service including new oil filter, spark plugs oil and coolant change as I do with all new secondhand cars I buy.
I have done about 1500miles since and noticed that the engine sounded tappety all of a sudden. I thought it was the cold weather but a few miles later it got louder. I stopped thengine immediatley and looked at the dip stick when it had sat for a while. It was just registering on the tip of the dipstick. BTW The oil warning light did not come on.
I topped up the oil and checked for any signs of an oil leak, if the sump plug was loose, but there was/is nothing.
The next logical step was to look for oil in the water or in the exhaust fumes. There is a touch of blue in the exhaust on start up but then its fine.
My guess is that there is some wear somewhere in the head and there is a small amount of oil being burned. My thought was the tappets due to the noise the other day but I can't see how this could be it?
Any thoughts?
MPETT said:
Hi there,
I bought an e36 328 Nreg with 72k last month. There was a diff problem which has been temporarily fixed by changing the diff oil and the adding of a (Jeep)friction modifier additive (£2.50!).
I also performed a full service including new oil filter, spark plugs oil and coolant change as I do with all new secondhand cars I buy.
I have done about 1500miles since and noticed that the engine sounded tappety all of a sudden. I thought it was the cold weather but a few miles later it got louder. I stopped thengine immediatley and looked at the dip stick when it had sat for a while. It was just registering on the tip of the dipstick. BTW The oil warning light did not come on.
I topped up the oil and checked for any signs of an oil leak, if the sump plug was loose, but there was/is nothing.
The next logical step was to look for oil in the water or in the exhaust fumes. There is a touch of blue in the exhaust on start up but then its fine.
My guess is that there is some wear somewhere in the head and there is a small amount of oil being burned. My thought was the tappets due to the noise the other day but I can't see how this could be it?
Any thoughts?
What grade oil are you using?I bought an e36 328 Nreg with 72k last month. There was a diff problem which has been temporarily fixed by changing the diff oil and the adding of a (Jeep)friction modifier additive (£2.50!).
I also performed a full service including new oil filter, spark plugs oil and coolant change as I do with all new secondhand cars I buy.
I have done about 1500miles since and noticed that the engine sounded tappety all of a sudden. I thought it was the cold weather but a few miles later it got louder. I stopped thengine immediatley and looked at the dip stick when it had sat for a while. It was just registering on the tip of the dipstick. BTW The oil warning light did not come on.
I topped up the oil and checked for any signs of an oil leak, if the sump plug was loose, but there was/is nothing.
The next logical step was to look for oil in the water or in the exhaust fumes. There is a touch of blue in the exhaust on start up but then its fine.
My guess is that there is some wear somewhere in the head and there is a small amount of oil being burned. My thought was the tappets due to the noise the other day but I can't see how this could be it?
Any thoughts?
What sort of block have you got?
Do a search for Nikasil block.
the low oil warning light switch may also be broken (I dont think there a good desin as it seems a common failure)
I have alos read on the www that cat convertors can hide the fact a car is burning oil becasuse the filter out the crap that creates the blue smoke (not sure how true that is)
Dave
the low oil warning light switch may also be broken (I dont think there a good desin as it seems a common failure)
I have alos read on the www that cat convertors can hide the fact a car is burning oil becasuse the filter out the crap that creates the blue smoke (not sure how true that is)
Dave
It sound to me as if you have a Nikasil block that is worn and the car is burning oil down the bores. The tappetts will get noisy when engine oil level gets low and they lose pressure, actually quite a good safety "feature" otherwise in this case, you could have completely run out of oil.
Your car sounds like it has had a fairly hard life but not all is lost yet. Do not be tempted to use high performance synthetic oils as they will increase your oil consumption. Do an oil and filter change and accurately refill your engine to max. I would use a 10/40 or 15/40 such as Magnatec then carefully measure your oil consumption over a specific mileage and then report back.
8Tech.
Your car sounds like it has had a fairly hard life but not all is lost yet. Do not be tempted to use high performance synthetic oils as they will increase your oil consumption. Do an oil and filter change and accurately refill your engine to max. I would use a 10/40 or 15/40 such as Magnatec then carefully measure your oil consumption over a specific mileage and then report back.
8Tech.
The oil was just registering on the bottom of the dipstick. Well below the min! The cat idea that it masks the blue smoke is interesting. The block should be (according to BMW) before the Nikasil. As i understand it was 97-99 cars that had this problem. Happy to be corrected.
I have only recently done an oil and filter change. Have used halfords oil 10/40w. I recently topped her up, and after 250 miles of mainly motorway driving the oil has dropped to just above 3/4.
I was also thinking about trying the oil additiives such as slick50. Thoughts?
I have only recently done an oil and filter change. Have used halfords oil 10/40w. I recently topped her up, and after 250 miles of mainly motorway driving the oil has dropped to just above 3/4.
I was also thinking about trying the oil additiives such as slick50. Thoughts?
MPETT said:
The block should be (according to BMW) before the Nikasil. As i understand it was 97-99 cars that had this problem. Happy to be corrected.
I have only recently done an oil and filter change. Have used halfords oil 10/40w. I recently topped her up, and after 250 miles of mainly motorway driving the oil has dropped to just above 3/4.
I'm afraid Nicasil liners were used on the 328s from the start - it was from about April 98 the steel liner blocks started coming in. Prior to that, a car may be either depending on if it has had the original Nicasil lined block replaced by a later one.I have only recently done an oil and filter change. Have used halfords oil 10/40w. I recently topped her up, and after 250 miles of mainly motorway driving the oil has dropped to just above 3/4.
I'd get a leakdown test done as that oil consumption sounds very high. I use 10w/40 and mine doesn't use any ( Feb 98 build and had the Alusil block done under warranty about 2001 - It's done about 80k on the new block just as a guide )
1500 miles and it's used approx 1.5 to 2 litres by the sounds of it.
BMW tolerances for oil consumption on the M52 is something 1 litre per 750 miles before it's considered excessive (seriously, I think it's even stated in the owners manual) - so it's not that much of a drama.
Nikasil is best checked with a wet compression test, otherwise don't immediately assume it is that. The M52 block is very sensitive to what oil it's running - suggest changing to Castrol 10/40w Semi and seeing how it goes with that.
Every Nikasil block I've come across has absolutely drunk oil - usually a litre every couple of hundred miles.
BMW tolerances for oil consumption on the M52 is something 1 litre per 750 miles before it's considered excessive (seriously, I think it's even stated in the owners manual) - so it's not that much of a drama.
Nikasil is best checked with a wet compression test, otherwise don't immediately assume it is that. The M52 block is very sensitive to what oil it's running - suggest changing to Castrol 10/40w Semi and seeing how it goes with that.
Every Nikasil block I've come across has absolutely drunk oil - usually a litre every couple of hundred miles.
How can 1 litre every couple of hundred miles be acceptable? Acceptable to who?? :P The engine would run out of oil before the next service!
I'm yet to try changing the oil, but so far using the halfords 10/40 it seems like I have done 400miles and the level is now down to 1/4.
I think I'm going to have to get my TVR put back together to be my daily driver whilst I rebuild the engine. That is exactly what I didn't want to happen. I sold my old car that had 230K becasue it needed rebuilding. I've only gone and bought a duff engine that needs to be rebuilt! Just goes to show you can check everything and know your stuff and still get shafted!
I'm yet to try changing the oil, but so far using the halfords 10/40 it seems like I have done 400miles and the level is now down to 1/4.
I think I'm going to have to get my TVR put back together to be my daily driver whilst I rebuild the engine. That is exactly what I didn't want to happen. I sold my old car that had 230K becasue it needed rebuilding. I've only gone and bought a duff engine that needs to be rebuilt! Just goes to show you can check everything and know your stuff and still get shafted!
Check the crankcase oil seperator valve which from memory forms part of the crankcase breathing system. (It sits below the inlet manifold)
Failure or blockage of this can lead to increased oil consumption and is often overlooked when oil consumption climbs with no other symptoms.
I had an E39 528 that mysteriously suddenly increased its oil consumption. I had no idea where it was going but changing this valve solved it.
It is a bugger to change though !
Failure or blockage of this can lead to increased oil consumption and is often overlooked when oil consumption climbs with no other symptoms.
I had an E39 528 that mysteriously suddenly increased its oil consumption. I had no idea where it was going but changing this valve solved it.
It is a bugger to change though !
Edited by Egbert Nobacon on Friday 14th March 09:22
Edited by Egbert Nobacon on Friday 14th March 09:23
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG12...
This link should take you to the part diagram for your car.
If not go to www.realoem.com
Enter the site and put your car details in.
Then select Engine and then cylinder head. The diagram will pop up below after you enter.
This link should take you to the part diagram for your car.
If not go to www.realoem.com
Enter the site and put your car details in.
Then select Engine and then cylinder head. The diagram will pop up below after you enter.
Edited by Egbert Nobacon on Friday 14th March 09:28
[quote=Egbert Nobacon]Check the crankcase oil seperator valve which from memory forms part of the crankcase breathing system. (It sits below the inlet manifold)
Failure or blockage of this can lead to increased oil consumption and is often overlooked when oil consumption climbs with no other symptoms.
I had an E39 528 that mysteriously suddenly increased its oil consumption. I had no idea where it was going but changing this valve solved it.
It is a bugger to change though !
I finally got round to changing the oilseparator and it was completely blocked. Putting the new on on immediatley changed the engine revs and resulted in a better idle. Obviously I'll have to wait and see if the oil consumption reduces over time. Will let you know.
Martom
Failure or blockage of this can lead to increased oil consumption and is often overlooked when oil consumption climbs with no other symptoms.
I had an E39 528 that mysteriously suddenly increased its oil consumption. I had no idea where it was going but changing this valve solved it.
It is a bugger to change though !
Edited by Egbert Nobacon on Friday 14th March 09:22
I finally got round to changing the oilseparator and it was completely blocked. Putting the new on on immediatley changed the engine revs and resulted in a better idle. Obviously I'll have to wait and see if the oil consumption reduces over time. Will let you know.
Martom
well the oil is still doing down and the engine now struggles for 1 minute to find ile when started from cold. I've tried a smoke reducing additive (just thick oil I think, but that just resulted in smoke out the back end(which wasn't happening/evident before the additive was added. All I have left to try is the Ametech engine restore stuff and a leakdown test.
Should the worst be true and the bores are shot, I have heard that you can not reline the original alu engine with steel liners and that you have to get a replacement steel liner block. Is that true? Any thoughts on this are greatly welcomed.
I suppose the other question is where can I get a new steel lined block of a replacement engine for my M reg 328i?
Cheers guys.
Martin
Should the worst be true and the bores are shot, I have heard that you can not reline the original alu engine with steel liners and that you have to get a replacement steel liner block. Is that true? Any thoughts on this are greatly welcomed.
I suppose the other question is where can I get a new steel lined block of a replacement engine for my M reg 328i?
Cheers guys.
Martin
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