330d E46 cold start /hesitation problems
Discussion
Morning All,
I have an intermittent hesitation on cold start problem with my '53 330d auto. Over the last month or so, when starting from cold (the engine always starts cleanly first time)and engaging D there has been a noticeable hesitation in pulling away, a couple of seconds or so. I reported this to my local BMW AD and booked it in for correction under warranty,I left it with them the night before so the technician would have it from cold. Needless to say on the day the car started perfectly and no fault codes were found. I had a similair problem 18 months ago, and a mass air sensor was replaced under warranty.
Last weekend I went to use the car, started it engaged drive and nothing happened. I tried again and this time gradually increased the revs, normally it pulls away on tickover. After about 6-7 seconds and at about 2000rpm, there was a sharp jolt as drive engaged. I drove the car for about 4-5 miles, and the car was very sluggish, acceleration was extremely laboured. I left the car for a couple hours, and it was the same on the return journey.
I took it into BMW the next day and the car was booked in for 28th March. Since then, the cold start problem has gone and normal levels of performance have resumed. I took the car in last night and explained this to the service dept, only to be told that if no fault codes are present then I would be charged for the workshop time.
I appreciate that intermittent faults are frustrating, it is frustrating owning a car that doesn't always work correctly. But as I have a full BMW UK warranty, I expect BMW to investigate fully and deal with the problem and I expect the workshop costs/time to be accepted by BMW. If the engine/gearbox had failed BMW would be looking at a four figure claim on the warranty, this is fairly inexpensive by comparison.
Have any other 330D owners had a similair problem with cold start/hesitation? What was the diagnosis/solution?
Has anyone else been told to pay for work on a faulty car, despite having a full BMW UK warranty?
Thanks,
Dominic
I have an intermittent hesitation on cold start problem with my '53 330d auto. Over the last month or so, when starting from cold (the engine always starts cleanly first time)and engaging D there has been a noticeable hesitation in pulling away, a couple of seconds or so. I reported this to my local BMW AD and booked it in for correction under warranty,I left it with them the night before so the technician would have it from cold. Needless to say on the day the car started perfectly and no fault codes were found. I had a similair problem 18 months ago, and a mass air sensor was replaced under warranty.
Last weekend I went to use the car, started it engaged drive and nothing happened. I tried again and this time gradually increased the revs, normally it pulls away on tickover. After about 6-7 seconds and at about 2000rpm, there was a sharp jolt as drive engaged. I drove the car for about 4-5 miles, and the car was very sluggish, acceleration was extremely laboured. I left the car for a couple hours, and it was the same on the return journey.
I took it into BMW the next day and the car was booked in for 28th March. Since then, the cold start problem has gone and normal levels of performance have resumed. I took the car in last night and explained this to the service dept, only to be told that if no fault codes are present then I would be charged for the workshop time.
I appreciate that intermittent faults are frustrating, it is frustrating owning a car that doesn't always work correctly. But as I have a full BMW UK warranty, I expect BMW to investigate fully and deal with the problem and I expect the workshop costs/time to be accepted by BMW. If the engine/gearbox had failed BMW would be looking at a four figure claim on the warranty, this is fairly inexpensive by comparison.
Have any other 330D owners had a similair problem with cold start/hesitation? What was the diagnosis/solution?
Has anyone else been told to pay for work on a faulty car, despite having a full BMW UK warranty?
Thanks,
Dominic
I've also got a '53 plate 330d (sport) with auto box and have a similar issue;
First thing in the morning, when the car is stone cold, (starts fine) I reverse out of my drive-way (reverse engages ok) and them put it into drive. I can sometimes sit there in the middle of the road for a few seconds with nothing happening - and as you say, a jolt and drive engages. You can rev it to your hearts content but it won't go anywhere.
Once the car is warm it's fine.
I have tried sitting in the driveway and engaging drive and waiting for the gear to engage before then changing to reverse to drive off. Then when I go into drive on the road, it does engage more quickly.
Mine is now out of warranty so I haven't taken it in yet, but to be honest, it's done this since I got it, but it has got worse this winter.
I am pretty sure it is the so-called "sealed for life" gearbox oil that just needs to be changed. Nothing to do with electronics/faults etc as once the gearbox / car is up to temperature it behaves normally.
My next option was to change the transmission fluid (but I haven't got round to it).
I would also be interested if anyone else has this problem. I did come across a thread on one of the US forums about sluggish auto boxes and the consensus appeared to be just change the fluid.
HTH
Steve
First thing in the morning, when the car is stone cold, (starts fine) I reverse out of my drive-way (reverse engages ok) and them put it into drive. I can sometimes sit there in the middle of the road for a few seconds with nothing happening - and as you say, a jolt and drive engages. You can rev it to your hearts content but it won't go anywhere.
Once the car is warm it's fine.
I have tried sitting in the driveway and engaging drive and waiting for the gear to engage before then changing to reverse to drive off. Then when I go into drive on the road, it does engage more quickly.
Mine is now out of warranty so I haven't taken it in yet, but to be honest, it's done this since I got it, but it has got worse this winter.
I am pretty sure it is the so-called "sealed for life" gearbox oil that just needs to be changed. Nothing to do with electronics/faults etc as once the gearbox / car is up to temperature it behaves normally.
My next option was to change the transmission fluid (but I haven't got round to it).
I would also be interested if anyone else has this problem. I did come across a thread on one of the US forums about sluggish auto boxes and the consensus appeared to be just change the fluid.
HTH
Steve
SteveSlowboy said:
I've also got a '53 plate 330d (sport) with auto box and have a similar issue;
First thing in the morning, when the car is stone cold, (starts fine) I reverse out of my drive-way (reverse engages ok) and them put it into drive. I can sometimes sit there in the middle of the road for a few seconds with nothing happening - and as you say, a jolt and drive engages. You can rev it to your hearts content but it won't go anywhere.
Once the car is warm it's fine.
I have tried sitting in the driveway and engaging drive and waiting for the gear to engage before then changing to reverse to drive off. Then when I go into drive on the road, it does engage more quickly.
Mine is now out of warranty so I haven't taken it in yet, but to be honest, it's done this since I got it, but it has got worse this winter.
I am pretty sure it is the so-called "sealed for life" gearbox oil that just needs to be changed. Nothing to do with electronics/faults etc as once the gearbox / car is up to temperature it behaves normally.
My next option was to change the transmission fluid (but I haven't got round to it).
I would also be interested if anyone else has this problem. I did come across a thread on one of the US forums about sluggish auto boxes and the consensus appeared to be just change the fluid.
HTH
Steve
Steve, this is exactly what mine is doing. I'll let you know how I get on as the car is with the local AD today.....First thing in the morning, when the car is stone cold, (starts fine) I reverse out of my drive-way (reverse engages ok) and them put it into drive. I can sometimes sit there in the middle of the road for a few seconds with nothing happening - and as you say, a jolt and drive engages. You can rev it to your hearts content but it won't go anywhere.
Once the car is warm it's fine.
I have tried sitting in the driveway and engaging drive and waiting for the gear to engage before then changing to reverse to drive off. Then when I go into drive on the road, it does engage more quickly.
Mine is now out of warranty so I haven't taken it in yet, but to be honest, it's done this since I got it, but it has got worse this winter.
I am pretty sure it is the so-called "sealed for life" gearbox oil that just needs to be changed. Nothing to do with electronics/faults etc as once the gearbox / car is up to temperature it behaves normally.
My next option was to change the transmission fluid (but I haven't got round to it).
I would also be interested if anyone else has this problem. I did come across a thread on one of the US forums about sluggish auto boxes and the consensus appeared to be just change the fluid.
HTH
Steve
Dominic
Got the car back this afternoon, no fault found and no fault codes showing. However, the dealer has asked to book the car back in for a couple of days to run a series of diagnostic check. They think there might be a problem with the software on the gearbox, not a mechanical problem.
Very helpful today and have arranged a courtesy car for the time they have the car.
Seems fair enough.
Very helpful today and have arranged a courtesy car for the time they have the car.
Seems fair enough.
Dropped the car off last night at the local AD, so they have it for a cold start this morning. They intend to keep it for a couple of days to run extensive diagnostic tests. This should get to the bottom of it.
When arranging the courtesy car, I told them I was condsidering changing mine for an M3 this summer- hint hint! They obviously didn't believe me, as I will be picking up a 116i in 45 mins....
When arranging the courtesy car, I told them I was condsidering changing mine for an M3 this summer- hint hint! They obviously didn't believe me, as I will be picking up a 116i in 45 mins....
Just collected the car from BMW. They could not find ant fault, but have re-programmed the EGS control unit on the gearbox, as advised by BMW UK technical dept. Total bill was £132.13, which included me paying them £43.23 plus vat for the pleasure of driving my car......Nice.
Let's hope it's all sorted.
Let's hope it's all sorted.
Problem solved.
Dealer reprogrammed the gearbox computer and it's fine now. I had asked them to check the gearbox oil level (which they did, charged me about £50 for and it was fine), they checked the diagnostics (another £50 or so).
All in, cost about £150 or so but it's fine now. This "reprogramming" lark is a license to print money.
Steve
Dealer reprogrammed the gearbox computer and it's fine now. I had asked them to check the gearbox oil level (which they did, charged me about £50 for and it was fine), they checked the diagnostics (another £50 or so).
All in, cost about £150 or so but it's fine now. This "reprogramming" lark is a license to print money.
Steve
While your car is under warranty check the connectors to your back lights. Pull the block connectors and look for burnt connector pins to the earth lead. Claim for new parts before the warranty runs out or you'll find like me a dashboard light comes on and your indicators will not work. Also broken springs (where they are retained in the bottom strut cup) are another favourite. Once the warranty runs out BMW will say there was no inherent fault because it didn't happen within the warranty period!
SteveSlowboy said:
Problem solved.
Dealer reprogrammed the gearbox computer and it's fine now. I had asked them to check the gearbox oil level (which they did, charged me about £50 for and it was fine), they checked the diagnostics (another £50 or so).
All in, cost about £150 or so but it's fine now. This "reprogramming" lark is a license to print money.
Steve
You walk into the main delaership and the service dept start preparing the invoice with a minimum £100 on it. They are a bunch of money grabbing b**tards who think nothing of profiting wildly from your car misfortune.Dealer reprogrammed the gearbox computer and it's fine now. I had asked them to check the gearbox oil level (which they did, charged me about £50 for and it was fine), they checked the diagnostics (another £50 or so).
All in, cost about £150 or so but it's fine now. This "reprogramming" lark is a license to print money.
Steve
I've given up long ago on BMW main dealers after one nasty incident when I was charged £180 'diagnostics' time and labour to find and replace a £5 relay switch.I was stuck far from home with the car dead and my local trustworthy BMW garage could not help me.
Vote with your feet, and just don't use the main dealer, use the web to find a local independant garage. Ironically they are prevalent because of all the bad business being done by the main dealers.
Something of a rant I know, but a bad main dealer (?tautology) ranks just below the estate agents and the lawyers as being first up against the wall when I'm king.
[/rant off]
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