E46 328i - likely problems?
E46 328i - likely problems?
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john_p

Original Poster:

7,073 posts

279 months

Wednesday 14th May 2008
quotequote all
I may be inheriting a E46 328i Saloon soon. Unsure as to whether to move it on or sell the Z4M and keep it for a few months (and buy a motorbike)

W plate. Think it's a SE Auto. It's done 100k and has been well maintained. What bits are starting to go at that mileage? How are the servicing costs at independents? How reliable are they proving to be?


Edited by john_p on Wednesday 14th May 12:49

Dunk76

4,350 posts

243 months

Wednesday 14th May 2008
quotequote all
All early E46s have little niggles - electrical mainly - but are pretty reliable things. Wear and tear is limited to the usual BMW stuff like wheel bearings, radius arm bushes.

The ZF autobox is probably getting tired if it's spent it's entire life in city traffic.

Other than that, they're nice cars. Suitable for a grinder perhaps?

Oh, if it's got black montana leather with integrated rear child seats, I'll p/ex the rear bench with you?wink

john_p

Original Poster:

7,073 posts

279 months

Wednesday 14th May 2008
quotequote all
I think the suspension bits were renewed lately, and it was used for longer trips rather than city commuting.

How do you check potential problems with the auto box?

Dunk76

4,350 posts

243 months

Wednesday 14th May 2008
quotequote all
Easiest way to diagnose any potential gremlins with the autobox is thus;

1) Cold select: Start it up when cold. Select D, then R, then D, then R. Whilst the engagement of each gear can be a bit physical when cold, there shouldn't be any clonking/thumping/banging

2) Cold Shift: It should hang onto gears a bit longer during cold cycle, but should still shift smoothly without hesitation.

3) Stall Test: When it's thoroughly warmed. Stationary in D, hold footbrake, gently bring revs up. The engine should begin to stall around 1800rpm. If it doesn't it could be the Torque Convertor is slipping

4) Band Strength test: Again hot. Stationary - full bore acceleration in S mode (S mode engages 1st gear as 2nd is always used in E). You're looking/feeling/listening for what feels like clutch slip, normally immediately after shift up when the torque can overwhelm the band or TC, or when it comes on power around 4000rpm.

5) Gear Hunting - these boxes can gear hunt if they're worn out, normally between 4th and 5th. Accelerate gradually up to the point it shifts into top, noting the RPM it shifts at. Deccelerate slightly below that RPM, then gradually bring up to that point again (avoiding kickdown) and hold speed at reasonable throttle (more than coasting). If it starts flapping between 4th and 5th constantly then you have gear hunting. Not good.


Dunk76

4,350 posts

243 months

Thursday 15th May 2008
quotequote all
Thought that was actually 'the rear subframes have a nasty habit of ripping out of the floor on the 328'

And it only applies to coupes?


LC23

1,315 posts

254 months

Thursday 15th May 2008
quotequote all
Dunk76 said:
Thought that was actually 'the rear subframes have a nasty habit of ripping out of the floor on the 328'

And it only applies to coupes?
Yeah this sounds right and agreed, I have only heard this is an issue for the coupes.

john_p

Original Poster:

7,073 posts

279 months

Thursday 15th May 2008
quotequote all
Dunk76 said:
Easiest way to diagnose any potential gremlins with the autobox is thus;
Thanks for this, will check the car when I get it.