Discussion
I'm going to test a drive a BMW E30 in a few hours.
I've only seen it at the side of the road and rang the number, its been de-badged so i don't know anything about the car, only thats it a four door version...
Is there anything i should look out for?? It's relatively cheap for here at £3k most are around the £4k for a VGC one, I don't know the car but i've been talking with someone who does and "says" its ok.
Thanks in Advance.
I've only seen it at the side of the road and rang the number, its been de-badged so i don't know anything about the car, only thats it a four door version...
Is there anything i should look out for?? It's relatively cheap for here at £3k most are around the £4k for a VGC one, I don't know the car but i've been talking with someone who does and "says" its ok.
Thanks in Advance.
I'd still check for rust on the rear wheel arches, around the scuttle below the windscreen (especially in the corners) and if there's a bodykit I'd ask the owner to unscrew it and have a look. Believe me; bodykit's hide major rust issues easily. They rust from the inside out....
If it's been debadged then I'd make sure you don't pay 318iS money for a 318i....(major difference).
If it's a 320i it is going to be slow until you hit 4,000rpm when it'll take off.
I'd also check the battery tray (it's in the boot!) or rather under it for rust.
One of the key things for me is when I approach a car is to check the owner the little things first too. Such as - are the four tyres all of the same variety and not remoulds? If not you can pretty much tell that the guy has spent some money on the car (you wouldn't spend money on tyres if you weren't prepared to look after the rest of the car).
If it's a 325i it'll be quick and make a glorious noise.
A good bargaining tool is that 99% of cars that have headlight wash wipes don't work - major pain to fix.
If it has a sunroof - they rust at the back of it so open it )to make sure it works) and take a torch with you. If there's rust in there.....
rear bushes. Buy BMW original parts. THey are cheap, still available and aren't as harsh as polyurethane. Unless you're going trackdays?
I'd upgrade elsewhere first.
It'll feel wallowy (maybe sometimes it feels like the rear hasn't caught up with the road, as it were; it's bouncing from the previous bump when you hit the next one type of feeling).
If the gearstick is wobbly it's a cheap fix to either upgrade to a Z3 shifter (shorter throw) or refurb the existing shift with BMW parts.
I've got two. 320i touring and a 325i touring.
Don't buy a 320i auto. You'll spend all your time in the petrol station.
318is - great car.
325i - the daddy.
320i - lovely noise without the power of a 325.
318i/316i - good budget motoring but no more than that.
If it's been debadged then I'd make sure you don't pay 318iS money for a 318i....(major difference).
If it's a 320i it is going to be slow until you hit 4,000rpm when it'll take off.
I'd also check the battery tray (it's in the boot!) or rather under it for rust.
One of the key things for me is when I approach a car is to check the owner the little things first too. Such as - are the four tyres all of the same variety and not remoulds? If not you can pretty much tell that the guy has spent some money on the car (you wouldn't spend money on tyres if you weren't prepared to look after the rest of the car).
If it's a 325i it'll be quick and make a glorious noise.
A good bargaining tool is that 99% of cars that have headlight wash wipes don't work - major pain to fix.
If it has a sunroof - they rust at the back of it so open it )to make sure it works) and take a torch with you. If there's rust in there.....
rear bushes. Buy BMW original parts. THey are cheap, still available and aren't as harsh as polyurethane. Unless you're going trackdays?
I'd upgrade elsewhere first.
It'll feel wallowy (maybe sometimes it feels like the rear hasn't caught up with the road, as it were; it's bouncing from the previous bump when you hit the next one type of feeling).
If the gearstick is wobbly it's a cheap fix to either upgrade to a Z3 shifter (shorter throw) or refurb the existing shift with BMW parts.
I've got two. 320i touring and a 325i touring.
Don't buy a 320i auto. You'll spend all your time in the petrol station.
318is - great car.
325i - the daddy.
320i - lovely noise without the power of a 325.
318i/316i - good budget motoring but no more than that.
Well it all depends on what spec the car is. If it's a 325i/320i/318is then there's a chance it'll have an LSD (it should tell you in the original paperwork). If that's not available then crawl under the back of the car and have a look at the rear axle in the middle. Thre's a differential there. If it's an LSD the tag that is attached to it will begin with an S and then the ratio. Thus S 4.10 or S 4.27 or something.
They help put the power down in more powerful cars and more importantly are worth a shed load second hand. If it's got a leather interior all the better. Leather feed (gliptone) will help with any cracks and bring it back. If it's a 316 and it's got leather; the interior is worth more than the car).
In terms of interiors the drivers isde seat will always suffer if it's done high mileage.
In terms of driving the car should feel all of a piece. THat's to say each surface you touch (steering, pedals and gearshift) should all feel the same - have the same depth of quality to it.
Make sure if brakes in a straight line.
Cracked dashboards are a pain to replace but are available. It shouldn't rattle at all.
They are great cars and the 6 pots are especially nice.
How much is the car you're going to see?
They help put the power down in more powerful cars and more importantly are worth a shed load second hand. If it's got a leather interior all the better. Leather feed (gliptone) will help with any cracks and bring it back. If it's a 316 and it's got leather; the interior is worth more than the car).
In terms of interiors the drivers isde seat will always suffer if it's done high mileage.
In terms of driving the car should feel all of a piece. THat's to say each surface you touch (steering, pedals and gearshift) should all feel the same - have the same depth of quality to it.
Make sure if brakes in a straight line.
Cracked dashboards are a pain to replace but are available. It shouldn't rattle at all.
They are great cars and the 6 pots are especially nice.
How much is the car you're going to see?
£3k Cyprus prices.
(e.g suzuki swift 1.6 sport 2006 £14k)
most E30's seem to be priced between £3-5k, and not many come up on the market, the cars is of the ebst taste but a respray and some TLC would make it more orignal. Just want a mechanically sound car, i'm faily handy with cosmetic stuff and some basic engine work.
Will take some pictures and post up.
As i've already its not the best taste of car, but as not a lot come up for sale i am prepared to look like a tool for a while until it get it to how i want it.
Ideally would like a 325, but i imagine it will be too fast for me (hands up i'm not the greatest driver, who is at 18 tho?)
Really appreciate the help, will post pictures when i get back and give you a verdict on the car.
-Craig
(e.g suzuki swift 1.6 sport 2006 £14k)
most E30's seem to be priced between £3-5k, and not many come up on the market, the cars is of the ebst taste but a respray and some TLC would make it more orignal. Just want a mechanically sound car, i'm faily handy with cosmetic stuff and some basic engine work.
Will take some pictures and post up.
As i've already its not the best taste of car, but as not a lot come up for sale i am prepared to look like a tool for a while until it get it to how i want it.
Ideally would like a 325, but i imagine it will be too fast for me (hands up i'm not the greatest driver, who is at 18 tho?)
Really appreciate the help, will post pictures when i get back and give you a verdict on the car.
-Craig
Ok.
It drives like a dream!
already got him down to £2400, its a 318is
gonna have a mechanic look at in the next few days.
All the tyres where in good condition and all of the same make. Spare rear lights, spare air filter and spare battery. not rust anywhere. generally pretty happy with it.
a few little niggle but nothing i can see wrong, but then again i'm nota mechanic. i'll post pictures later tonight.
thanks again
It drives like a dream!
already got him down to £2400, its a 318isgonna have a mechanic look at in the next few days.
All the tyres where in good condition and all of the same make. Spare rear lights, spare air filter and spare battery. not rust anywhere. generally pretty happy with it.
a few little niggle but nothing i can see wrong, but then again i'm nota mechanic. i'll post pictures later tonight.
thanks again
Cyprus
E30's are very straightforward to work so you've chosen a good car. Mechanically they are easy and cheap (for the most part) to work on so you're right - it doesn't matter if the paint is a bit tatty but make sure the body is sound.
Usually what looks like a minor rust patch from the outside is usually much worse inside.
318iS - very good car. Great engine. People call them the mini-M3. 140bhp and 30mpg+.
Nice.
Have a look at www.e30zone.net for all things e30. Advice etc, Parts etc.
The great thing is that BMW main dealers still supply most of the parts for E30's and what you can't get there (if nec) then go secondhand.
Good luck fella.
E30's are very straightforward to work so you've chosen a good car. Mechanically they are easy and cheap (for the most part) to work on so you're right - it doesn't matter if the paint is a bit tatty but make sure the body is sound.
Usually what looks like a minor rust patch from the outside is usually much worse inside.
318iS - very good car. Great engine. People call them the mini-M3. 140bhp and 30mpg+.
Nice.
Have a look at www.e30zone.net for all things e30. Advice etc, Parts etc.
The great thing is that BMW main dealers still supply most of the parts for E30's and what you can't get there (if nec) then go secondhand.
Good luck fella.
CyprusCraig said:
Ok.
It drives like a dream!already got him down to £2400, its a 318is
gonna have a mechanic look at in the next few days.
All the tyres where in good condition and all of the same make. Spare rear lights, spare air filter and spare battery. not rust anywhere. generally pretty happy with it.
a few little niggle but nothing i can see wrong, but then again i'm nota mechanic. i'll post pictures later tonight.
thanks again
A rust free, low mileage 318is would be worth that over here. It drives like a dream!
already got him down to £2400, its a 318isgonna have a mechanic look at in the next few days.
All the tyres where in good condition and all of the same make. Spare rear lights, spare air filter and spare battery. not rust anywhere. generally pretty happy with it.
a few little niggle but nothing i can see wrong, but then again i'm nota mechanic. i'll post pictures later tonight.
thanks again
Can you take the car for the Cyprus equivalant of an MOT?
low illage thats the only thing bothering me, its over 200k but the numbers are stuck so not too sure. A TRNC MOT consists of checking tyre engine numbers and emmision is thats all ok then it passes. No joke. still thinking about it, a few frieds have warned me against it as they think it could be too quick. still ot sure tho, gonna have a proper look at it tho.
At 200k miles I'd want to know how that engine has been looked after. In my opinion a 6 pot will take 200k better than a 4 pot; especially one that is designed to rev it's nuts off.
What's the service history like? Is there much of it for a start? I'd want the SH to be epic for peace of mind.
Plus the gearbox and diff will have done the same mileage. Is there any evidence, for example, of the diff oil having been channged at all? (it's straightforward and a DIY job).
£2.5k is a lot of money to part with. I'd want it to be absolutely sure it's not going to cost me another grand in the near future.
What's the service history like? Is there much of it for a start? I'd want the SH to be epic for peace of mind.
Plus the gearbox and diff will have done the same mileage. Is there any evidence, for example, of the diff oil having been channged at all? (it's straightforward and a DIY job).
£2.5k is a lot of money to part with. I'd want it to be absolutely sure it's not going to cost me another grand in the near future.
Quattro's right - it's a 16valve engine as opposed to the 8valve M40 engine in the 318i. The M42 engine is based on the M40 block but had a higher compression ratio, double overhead cams driven by a cam chain and hydraulic valve lifters. At the time it produced very good power (137bhp rising to 140 in the E36 editions). That was very good for an N/A engine back in the day. Bear in mind these cars are light (compared to today).
The 318i is a laudable car, don't get me wrong but it's in a different league (Ryman versus championship, if the M3 is premiership if that makes sense) compared to the iS.
It was built as a direct response to the Golf GTI of the time (it was designed to beat the 0-60 time etc) but it didn't quite hit the mark to be honest.
They are getting rare now - as of 2001 there were only 1,600 318iS left in the UK according to the DVLA.
Oh, and they didn't come with an LSD as standard. If yours has got one, all the better.
There's rumours that BMW restricted the 318iS in order for it not to topple the 325i in terms of performance.
It could breathe better. That's one of the first things I'd do is look at changing the MAF (for a Miller) and put a good panel filter in.
The 318i is a laudable car, don't get me wrong but it's in a different league (Ryman versus championship, if the M3 is premiership if that makes sense) compared to the iS.
It was built as a direct response to the Golf GTI of the time (it was designed to beat the 0-60 time etc) but it didn't quite hit the mark to be honest.
They are getting rare now - as of 2001 there were only 1,600 318iS left in the UK according to the DVLA.
Oh, and they didn't come with an LSD as standard. If yours has got one, all the better.
There's rumours that BMW restricted the 318iS in order for it not to topple the 325i in terms of performance.
It could breathe better. That's one of the first things I'd do is look at changing the MAF (for a Miller) and put a good panel filter in.
I bought it, loving it, but had a drive in my mechanics tuned 325i today, started another topic about diong an engine transplant into mine, not sure if it would work, but the 325i really is an animal.
thanks for all your imput.
The project has now started, getting a new interior this month, black and whit leather recaros i think to keep in with the black and white exterior, got a sound system fitted but its vibrating the car rather annoying really (also posted another topic on how to sort that out)
after the interior its time to sort the body work out.
thanks for all your imput.
The project has now started, getting a new interior this month, black and whit leather recaros i think to keep in with the black and white exterior, got a sound system fitted but its vibrating the car rather annoying really (also posted another topic on how to sort that out)
after the interior its time to sort the body work out.
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