E30 325/B3 2.7 buying help
Discussion
Hi all i am hoping i can get some help i recently looked at an E30 BMW it was originally a 325 but is now has a B3 2.7 engine fitted would this be desirable to others or would they prefer standard, the car also has the Mtech bodykit unsure wether it was a standard fit but i would imagine not, the shell of the car has covered 50,000 miles?
Any help would be appreciated in the form of:
Is the Engine desirable?
would the car be besirable with the engine in it?
what is the car worth(no rust etc)
Many thamks
Ross
Any help would be appreciated in the form of:
Is the Engine desirable?
would the car be besirable with the engine in it?
what is the car worth(no rust etc)
Many thamks
Ross
Ross-co. It is desirable. could you tell me a bit more aboout the car. Is it badged an Alpina? Have you any paperwork with the car? Most E30 BMW's that had Alpina work on them were conducted by Sytners (it was Bird's for Hartge).
If the car has provenance then all the better. What they used to do is convert them into an Alpina in their workshops. Engine, body mods, lsd, clocks, etc were put on by Sytners.
If you don't have any of this then it does affect value simply because questions will be asked as to the engine's health and history. Anyone can change a rocker cover so it says Alpina....
If you want to PM me then please do.
If you don't have any history then the next best thing to do is to take the VIN number (bottom of the windscreen scuttle if you can't find it) and speak to BMW. It should be on the system. You can actually check the original build sheet (it should, at the very least, say Sport there otherwise it's a regular 325 despite what people might tell you).
Has it got an lsd?
leather sport interior?
trip computer?
air con?
cruise control?
mtec II steering wheel?
What year is it?
What's the body like? Rear arches ok? footwells dry? Battery tray ok?
If the car has provenance then all the better. What they used to do is convert them into an Alpina in their workshops. Engine, body mods, lsd, clocks, etc were put on by Sytners.
If you don't have any of this then it does affect value simply because questions will be asked as to the engine's health and history. Anyone can change a rocker cover so it says Alpina....
If you want to PM me then please do.
If you don't have any history then the next best thing to do is to take the VIN number (bottom of the windscreen scuttle if you can't find it) and speak to BMW. It should be on the system. You can actually check the original build sheet (it should, at the very least, say Sport there otherwise it's a regular 325 despite what people might tell you).
Has it got an lsd?
leather sport interior?
trip computer?
air con?
cruise control?
mtec II steering wheel?
What year is it?
What's the body like? Rear arches ok? footwells dry? Battery tray ok?
the body seems very good i will try an find out as much as possible about they car and may well take you up on your oferr of PM'ing you, from all my browsing you seem to be very knowledgable about the older bmw's.
As of yet i have been led to believe that the engine (the alpina was put in to the car later as the car is not badged up as an alpina it is however a one owner car from new with 50,000 miles.
As of yet i have been led to believe that the engine (the alpina was put in to the car later as the car is not badged up as an alpina it is however a one owner car from new with 50,000 miles.
That's great Ross-co - pm away. We can have a chat on the phone too.
The key things are then - what is the spec of the original 325i. Then we'll need the spec of the engine and it's provenance.
Then we can work out what it's worth.
The crucial things are:
Lsd?
Which gearbox is fitted?
Interior condition and spec.
Body - if there is bubbling on the outside it spells work needed on that particular wing or quarter as they rust from the inside out on these. Check behind the rear registration plate (assuming it's a saloon) for rust (you'll be amazed at the state of it). Rear boot floor. front footwells (damp?), sunroof model? slide it back and shine a torch into the rear - rust in there means the drain holes are blocked (and it's an utter b
h of a job to get rid of that rust too).
BBS alloys - do they have centre caps with the BMW roundels? If not theyare £28 from BMW. E34 centre caps don't fit (e30's are 3 piece part metal plastic, e34's are all plastic and cheap as chips).
Does it have air con?
OBC works? (that's the computer in the roof)
Does it havea trip meter (where the clock in the dash usually sits?)
Cruise control?
Does the headlight wash wipe work?
Does the headlight adjustment work (that's the knob down the right under the steering wheel?
Does the steering rack weep?
Does it have a complete tool kit including the plastic manual window winder (very rare if it does!)
Questions, questions!
The key things are then - what is the spec of the original 325i. Then we'll need the spec of the engine and it's provenance.
Then we can work out what it's worth.
The crucial things are:
Lsd?
Which gearbox is fitted?
Interior condition and spec.
Body - if there is bubbling on the outside it spells work needed on that particular wing or quarter as they rust from the inside out on these. Check behind the rear registration plate (assuming it's a saloon) for rust (you'll be amazed at the state of it). Rear boot floor. front footwells (damp?), sunroof model? slide it back and shine a torch into the rear - rust in there means the drain holes are blocked (and it's an utter b
h of a job to get rid of that rust too).BBS alloys - do they have centre caps with the BMW roundels? If not theyare £28 from BMW. E34 centre caps don't fit (e30's are 3 piece part metal plastic, e34's are all plastic and cheap as chips).
Does it have air con?
OBC works? (that's the computer in the roof)
Does it havea trip meter (where the clock in the dash usually sits?)
Cruise control?
Does the headlight wash wipe work?
Does the headlight adjustment work (that's the knob down the right under the steering wheel?
Does the steering rack weep?
Does it have a complete tool kit including the plastic manual window winder (very rare if it does!)
Questions, questions!
I'm about to buy a third to save if from the scrapper (although it's only a 318i saloon) and looking at a fourth!
I absolutely love them. I use my 325 i touring (check profile) for work and the amount of comments it gets is amazing. Plus they are a joy to drive. Proper old school.
And the 325 is quick (and can be made to feel even quicker with a couple of cheap mods) but a 2.7 will be properly quick. lsd's make a big difference.
How much is this guy asking for the car?
I absolutely love them. I use my 325 i touring (check profile) for work and the amount of comments it gets is amazing. Plus they are a joy to drive. Proper old school.
And the 325 is quick (and can be made to feel even quicker with a couple of cheap mods) but a 2.7 will be properly quick. lsd's make a big difference.
How much is this guy asking for the car?
Well it really depends on the condition of the car. Ropey ones with a poverty spec go for anything from £1,200 upwards. Pristine? Up to about £5,000.
An e30 that doesn't need work simply doesn't exist. They all need constant loving to keep them tip top. It's being able to assess the quality of the work done that is important and that'll come down to the owner (you can tell alot about the car from the owner) and tell tale stuff when looking at the car.
If the 4 tyres are different makes of indifferent brands; well that'll tell you alot about it's up keep. If they are 4 Bridgestone/yoko/dunlop/pirelli on the other hand - says a great deal.
Has it been council modded (shiney go faster pedals, non bmw gearknob of ebay make, council tinted, etc).
Does the car have a sheaf of paperwork to back the history and the work undertaken up? Don't forget that alot of e30 spares are still available from BMW and at very reasonable prices, in many cases. Does the car feel right? I know that's a tough one to call and is a matter of opinion but the car should drive all of a piece. The controls should all feel and have the same sort of weight to them.
Does the central locking work (another git of a job for the non-diyer if it isn't)
An e30 that doesn't need work simply doesn't exist. They all need constant loving to keep them tip top. It's being able to assess the quality of the work done that is important and that'll come down to the owner (you can tell alot about the car from the owner) and tell tale stuff when looking at the car.
If the 4 tyres are different makes of indifferent brands; well that'll tell you alot about it's up keep. If they are 4 Bridgestone/yoko/dunlop/pirelli on the other hand - says a great deal.
Has it been council modded (shiney go faster pedals, non bmw gearknob of ebay make, council tinted, etc).
Does the car have a sheaf of paperwork to back the history and the work undertaken up? Don't forget that alot of e30 spares are still available from BMW and at very reasonable prices, in many cases. Does the car feel right? I know that's a tough one to call and is a matter of opinion but the car should drive all of a piece. The controls should all feel and have the same sort of weight to them.
Does the central locking work (another git of a job for the non-diyer if it isn't)
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