E36 outer ball joint removal issue

[alip56]

1992 320i with 170k miles

Need to replace ball joint on near side (am doing both to keep it even) but currently am struggling to remove existing ones on both sides. Have removed the nut on underside of the anti roll bar drop link and removed that from the arm with a bit of assistance from WD40, also slackened off the nut ontop of the ball joint itself. However the ball joint wont drop through the bottom of the hub assembly, or infact move at all?

have tried jacking up the hub assembly to assist with it but to no avail, have sprayed with WD40 again and left overnight but still not shifting.

googled the problem and seen mention of it but not really produced an answer, also searched on here but to no avail. Anyone else got round this without going to a garage? trying to do as much myself for minimal money, bit of a learning curve for me, but managed to change front struts no problem as well as weld up holes in boot floor etc.

Thanks

[pat_y]

You will need to borrow or buy a balljoint splitter, comes either as a giant long handled 2 prong fork that you wedge between the hub/balljoint and attack with biggest hammer you have. Or a clamp type splitter (fork type thing with a threaded nut pushing a lever).
Pretty much all motor factors will have them.

[alip56]

ok, thanks for that, will drop into my local one on way home.

Are they notorious for being stuck in there? I pressume that due to the milage and vulnerability to the elements etc. that it is largely just stuck there with corrosion/dirt etc.?

[pat_y]

Most cars suffer from this, balljoints are sat under load for 50 - 100k miles in a set position in the hub/chassis, by design they are located quite tightly in their socket, to get one that just taps out with a hammer or falls out is very rare.
If you just ask the motor factor people how it's used they should be able to explain quite quickly in a practical demo style.

[alip56]

I can picture what you mean, just wanted to check its all as per usual before putting undue stress on any parts!

Thanks very much for rapid and sensible advice, much appreciated.

[phelix]

The stud on the ball joint is generally a taper fit into the upright so the combined forces from the car's weight over the miles and the force exerted by the nut mean it will not come apart without help. You need either 4 or 5 or 6 or 7 from http://www.draper.co.uk/catalogue/Pagesource/p132.... Note that using 6 or 7 (aptly called a pickle fork) will generally tear the rubber boot - no problem if you plan to replace the part.

[alip56]

Yeah I acquired a pickle fork, gave it a good whack and hey presto, only problem now is removing the ball joint from the arm itself? Can't seem to get my gear puller onto it enough to force it out, any other suggestions?

I did try to get a screw driver (and then hopefully the pickle fork)inbetween the arm and bottom of the joint but to no avail! Just seems to be seized in there, not wanting to change the whole arm really, seems in ok condition!

[Vee]

Isn't the Pickle Fork to split the arm and joint from the car itself.
I think you need to PRESS the old joint out of the arm and then press a new one in.

[alip56]

Exactly, the fork worked for separating the arm from hub assembly. I tried to press the ball joint out of the arm with my gear puller but failed, am looking for other suggestions on how to press it out. Is the answer to remove the whole arm and use a vice?

[Vee]

Yes I think so.

[pat_y]

personally i've not ever changed just the balljoint as they are pressed into the arm, i only change the whole arm which comes with all the joints ready pressed in, around £30 a side from GSF or euro car parts.

[phelix]

I expect you'll need a hydraulic press and the right arbors to avoid damaging the arm.

[alip56]

Ok given up on removing the ball joints from existing arms and have ordered arms with joints and bushes. Been removing the nuts from innner ball joints and need to attack that with the pickle fork to separate from the car next.