1999 BMW 3 SERIES 328 Ci 2dr Auto Coupe
1999 BMW 3 SERIES 328 Ci 2dr Auto Coupe
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Discussion

dr_gn

Original Poster:

16,976 posts

214 months

Monday 14th June 2010
quotequote all
Are they any good?

Any reliability problems?

Found one that looks OK at about £4000, is this a decent price?

Looking to replace my almost knackered L plate Prelude 2.2 VTEC. Ideally I'd like something that isn't too prone to rust, and has comparable performance, but with a bit more practicality.

Thanks in advance.

LC23

1,315 posts

255 months

Monday 14th June 2010
quotequote all
Good cars. Personally I would go for the manual, but that's just my preference. Do bear in mind that niggly things (as well as one major thing I can think of) can go which soon start to add up -

Rear subframe can tear from it's mounts - known problem by BMW but no recall. My brother had this go on his and BMW did repair at their cost. Was around a £2.5k bill however.

Front wishbone bushes (usually every 60,000 miles or so). It will feel wallowy at the front if these need replacing.

Thermostat and water pump will need replacing, usualy between 60,000 and 100,000 miles.

Windows can play up as well as the central locking. Check the windows go up and down with no clunks and that the central locking works as it should.


dr_gn

Original Poster:

16,976 posts

214 months

Monday 14th June 2010
quotequote all
LC23 said:
Good cars. Personally I would go for the manual, but that's just my preference. Do bear in mind that niggly things (as well as one major thing I can think of) can go which soon start to add up -

Rear subframe can tear from it's mounts - known problem by BMW but no recall. My brother had this go on his and BMW did repair at their cost. Was around a £2.5k bill however.

Front wishbone bushes (usually every 60,000 miles or so). It will feel wallowy at the front if these need replacing.

Thermostat and water pump will need replacing, usualy between 60,000 and 100,000 miles.

Windows can play up as well as the central locking. Check the windows go up and down with no clunks and that the central locking works as it should.
Thanks a lot for that info.

What are they like to work on from a DIY point of view? I do all my own maintenance and repairs on the Honda (and others) with the help of Workshop manuals. Is the C/L and E/L problem a loom fatigue issue or something more sinister? How about parts cost? genuine BMW are presumably very expensive?

Do you have any real world mpg figures for an auto? The missus might need to drive it occasionally, so that's why I'd go for an auto!

Thanks again,

Dr_GN.


Devil2575

13,400 posts

218 months

Tuesday 15th June 2010
quotequote all
£4k is a lot for an E46 328. It would need to be mint and with a low milage for that money IMHO.

Also the rear subframe issue would be enough to put me off buying one.

dr_gn

Original Poster:

16,976 posts

214 months

Tuesday 15th June 2010
quotequote all
Devil2575 said:
£4k is a lot for an E46 328. It would need to be mint and with a low milage for that money IMHO.

Also the rear subframe issue would be enough to put me off buying one.
So if you were after a 3 series for around 3K - 4K, which version/year/mileage would you go for as the best overall deal?

Thanks for you reply.

Devil2575

13,400 posts

218 months

Tuesday 15th June 2010
quotequote all
To be honest if I had that budget i'd be looking at a late low miles mint E36 328 Sport. A 98/99 (S or T reg) car if Possible. They have the potential for more power and are nicer looking than the e46.

The early E46 coupes were not the greatest cars in the world. If you can stretch the 330 is a much better machine although not without their problems.

dr_gn

Original Poster:

16,976 posts

214 months

Tuesday 15th June 2010
quotequote all
Devil2575 said:
To be honest if I had that budget i'd be looking at a late low miles mint E36 328 Sport. A 98/99 (S or T reg) car if Possible. They have the potential for more power and are nicer looking than the e46.

The early E46 coupes were not the greatest cars in the world. If you can stretch the 330 is a much better machine although not without their problems.
How about in terms of complexity / spares cost? Presumably the E36 will be a less sophisticated machine? Easier/cheaper to maintain - or maybe just easier?

Thanks again.

Devil2575

13,400 posts

218 months

Tuesday 15th June 2010
quotequote all
dr_gn said:
How about in terms of complexity / spares cost? Presumably the E36 will be a less sophisticated machine? Easier/cheaper to maintain - or maybe just easier?

Thanks again.
I wouldn't say the e36 is going to work out to be any cheaper to run although it will, by virtue of being older, be less complicated. They are certainly quite DIY friendly if you're handy with the spanners.

dr_gn

Original Poster:

16,976 posts

214 months

Tuesday 15th June 2010
quotequote all
Devil2575 said:
dr_gn said:
How about in terms of complexity / spares cost? Presumably the E36 will be a less sophisticated machine? Easier/cheaper to maintain - or maybe just easier?

Thanks again.
I wouldn't say the e36 is going to work out to be any cheaper to run although it will, by virtue of being older, be less complicated. They are certainly quite DIY friendly if you're handy with the spanners.
What about something like this one:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1998-BMW-323ci-COUPE-CLASSIC...

OK, it's a 323, but beggars can't be choosers.

LC23

1,315 posts

255 months

Tuesday 15th June 2010
quotequote all
The E36 323i is a good car (I had one!). But that is far too much price wise. I know it's low mileage and at a dealer but eek