Do these symptoms seem familiar to anyone?
Discussion
2002 E46, 65,000 miles.
Started it up tonight. Engine rattled for about 2 seconds then cut out. Gave it a minute then it started OK. Now it is driving fine generally (no clunks, rattles or bangs) but it is very slugish and doesn't 'pick up' like it did previously.
For additional info: just had inspection 2, no previous problems, starts OK.
Thanks for any input.
Started it up tonight. Engine rattled for about 2 seconds then cut out. Gave it a minute then it started OK. Now it is driving fine generally (no clunks, rattles or bangs) but it is very slugish and doesn't 'pick up' like it did previously.
For additional info: just had inspection 2, no previous problems, starts OK.
Thanks for any input.
Edited by Progressive on Friday 19th November 18:55
To add to the symptoms list:
Just took it out for a 5 mile spin after being stood for a couple of hours.
Definite deep throaty noise thoughout the cabin upon acceleration. Very noticeable from the exhaust when stood behind the car. Can confirm a severe power decrease upon acceleration. Feels like there is no 'pressure'. Very sluggish, especially higher up the revs.
Could a break in the exhaust somewhere cause anything like this?
Just took it out for a 5 mile spin after being stood for a couple of hours.
Definite deep throaty noise thoughout the cabin upon acceleration. Very noticeable from the exhaust when stood behind the car. Can confirm a severe power decrease upon acceleration. Feels like there is no 'pressure'. Very sluggish, especially higher up the revs.
Could a break in the exhaust somewhere cause anything like this?
Progressive said:
For any future searchers, the mechanic I took it to has determined the problem to be a 'skipped tooth on the timing chain'. The repair cost is to the tune of £350.
The symptoms do not seem to justify this problem but I'm not the expert. It's going to be an expensive Christmas for me!
if this is the case STOP DRIVING it NOW! before you need a compleate new engine.The symptoms do not seem to justify this problem but I'm not the expert. It's going to be an expensive Christmas for me!
£350 seems very cheap to me. if it has skipped a tooth you will have bent a few valves at least.
this means head off new valves head gasket and belt/chain. it a very big job.
if you continue to drive the car you risk damage to the pistons or even the head of one of the valves falling into the combustion chaimber ( you'll prob need a new engine if this happens)
The mechanic said I can drive around on it but "don't go daft". Seems like he wants something more serious to happen! This is of obvious concern to me now you have said that!
The car is at home now and I'm taking it back down next week for the repair. He mentioned "it wont bend the valves" and also said "the codes would indicate that it is a sensor gone, but it's not that". He said that the problem was quite common on the E46.
Anyone fancy giving further input? It would be welcomed.
Should I be concerned with the diagnosis?
The car is at home now and I'm taking it back down next week for the repair. He mentioned "it wont bend the valves" and also said "the codes would indicate that it is a sensor gone, but it's not that". He said that the problem was quite common on the E46.
Anyone fancy giving further input? It would be welcomed.
Should I be concerned with the diagnosis?
Tend to agree with the other comment, it's highly unlikey the chain has skipped a tooth and if that HAS happened, I'd suggest you need a new chain & tensioner, plus the labour/gasket set, so the price is suspicious.
Do you trust the chap who has given you this diagnosis?
Can he confirm the fault codes he's read?
Worth a second opinion as a minimum and there's a list in the forum of BMW independents.
I'm a born scpetic BTW, but my instinct usually works well with car mechanics.
Do you trust the chap who has given you this diagnosis?
Can he confirm the fault codes he's read?
Worth a second opinion as a minimum and there's a list in the forum of BMW independents.
I'm a born scpetic BTW, but my instinct usually works well with car mechanics.
roofer said:
Your mechanic is having you over! It is no way a skipped tooth. Its a cam sensor. He is going to put a £62 (BMW) sensor in, 5 minutes work, and charge you £350. Go and get it diagnosed properly, then proceed to revisit him and beat him with a large bat!
This 
If it has 'skipped a tooth', you'd know about it and you sure as hell wouldn't be able to drive the car.
Your mechanic sounds like a shark. Avoid him like the plague and take it to a recommended BMW specialist.
Ironically, my family have used him for years with no complaints. Tempted to get a second opinion but don't want to be driving it around at the risk of really causing a problem!
It's driving OK though, just very slow pulling away. Has anyone had a skipped timing chain before? Would the car be obviously knackered?
I don't really want to challenge the guy over it due to been known to us and having sorted me out in the past.
Hmmm...
It's driving OK though, just very slow pulling away. Has anyone had a skipped timing chain before? Would the car be obviously knackered?
I don't really want to challenge the guy over it due to been known to us and having sorted me out in the past.
Hmmm...
Hi,I think your mechanic could be telling the truth,if the engine is the n42,which it should be at that age. If the fault code stored says inlet or exhaust camshaft out of phase it normally means that the plastic guides holding the timing chain in place have broken and the timing has moved. If this is the case the engine would require new guides top and bottom,a new tensioner and the timing reset.
Depending on how much of the guide is broken sometimes the sump requires removed to clean broken plastic from the oil pick-up strainer on the bottom of the pump.
Normally if this has happened and the engine is still running its usually just the top guide that is broken,if the bottom guide is broken the engine cranks but never starts as the timing moves too far out. Even when the bottom guide is broken i have never seen the valves hit the pistons as both the camshafts and the crankshafts are still turning just at the wrong time.
This fault seems to be more common if a thicker oil is used rather than the approved 0w40,especially in the colder weather.
First thing i would do is confirm what the fault code that is stored is and any initial checks have been carried out.
The price quoted for doing the job is very reasonable if it includes new top and bottom guides,new tensioner,new 0w40 oil,filter and re-timing the engine with the special tools and dropping the sump if required.
Hope this is some help,but you never know the haters could be right and i could be wrong.
All mechanics are evil
Depending on how much of the guide is broken sometimes the sump requires removed to clean broken plastic from the oil pick-up strainer on the bottom of the pump.
Normally if this has happened and the engine is still running its usually just the top guide that is broken,if the bottom guide is broken the engine cranks but never starts as the timing moves too far out. Even when the bottom guide is broken i have never seen the valves hit the pistons as both the camshafts and the crankshafts are still turning just at the wrong time.
This fault seems to be more common if a thicker oil is used rather than the approved 0w40,especially in the colder weather.
First thing i would do is confirm what the fault code that is stored is and any initial checks have been carried out.
The price quoted for doing the job is very reasonable if it includes new top and bottom guides,new tensioner,new 0w40 oil,filter and re-timing the engine with the special tools and dropping the sump if required.
Hope this is some help,but you never know the haters could be right and i could be wrong.
All mechanics are evil
Thanks for all the advice from both sides!
No other indy can see it until late next week. Ultimately, it could be the problem anyway and still require the work. I have arranged to drop it off for the repair at the start of the week.
I can't do with the hassle at the moment (although can't really do with waxing £350 either to be honest).
In response to the build up of the price. He said he would be setting the chain back right and attached a 'precautionary' something or other to stop it happening again. No other parts. The labour involves taking quite a bit of the gubbins out to get into the timing chain area, or so he says...
No other indy can see it until late next week. Ultimately, it could be the problem anyway and still require the work. I have arranged to drop it off for the repair at the start of the week.
I can't do with the hassle at the moment (although can't really do with waxing £350 either to be honest).
In response to the build up of the price. He said he would be setting the chain back right and attached a 'precautionary' something or other to stop it happening again. No other parts. The labour involves taking quite a bit of the gubbins out to get into the timing chain area, or so he says...
I must add, when whatever it was went pop, it was definitely a 'mechanical' noise. By this, I mean it didn't seem like a sensor but a mechanical entity mis-functioning.
The car will be sat on the drive at home all weekend now. I have to get it back to the garage on Monday. Not sure if I dare drive it but haven't really got any other means of getting it there.
The car will be sat on the drive at home all weekend now. I have to get it back to the garage on Monday. Not sure if I dare drive it but haven't really got any other means of getting it there.
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