E36 328 as a daily drive
Discussion
Anyone care to comment on the pros and cons of running an E36 328 as a daily drive?
I've been looking at many other, more modern options, but I cannot help being drawn back to the prospect of a nice 328i Sport. Being an 11+ year old car, am I likely to experience any significant problems or expense more than I would with say a 7 year old Leon Cupra (for eg)?
I've owned a couple of E46's and have frequented BMW forums, so know a fair bit about what to look out for (suspension, cooling system, nikasil, rusty arches, etc). Assuming a car with good service histry can be sourced, are there any other things that should cause me concern?
I'm ok with mpg side of things (ran a 330Ci for a while and was pleasantly surprised by consumption). I would also look to use a good local independent specialist to maintain - one which I have experience of and know to be reliable.
I've been looking at many other, more modern options, but I cannot help being drawn back to the prospect of a nice 328i Sport. Being an 11+ year old car, am I likely to experience any significant problems or expense more than I would with say a 7 year old Leon Cupra (for eg)?
I've owned a couple of E46's and have frequented BMW forums, so know a fair bit about what to look out for (suspension, cooling system, nikasil, rusty arches, etc). Assuming a car with good service histry can be sourced, are there any other things that should cause me concern?
I'm ok with mpg side of things (ran a 330Ci for a while and was pleasantly surprised by consumption). I would also look to use a good local independent specialist to maintain - one which I have experience of and know to be reliable.
I have one and despite wanting to upgrade to an Elise or Chimaera, I can't justify selling my 328. It's never broken down, never not started, is comfortable (leather etc), reasonably fast and does just under 30MPG.
Am currently around 170k and still going strong.
The things you've highlighted are all correct, also, if you can, check when the RTABs were last changed and also the front lower suspension arms. Both common MOT failure items, both fixable for about £2-300.
Am currently around 170k and still going strong.
The things you've highlighted are all correct, also, if you can, check when the RTABs were last changed and also the front lower suspension arms. Both common MOT failure items, both fixable for about £2-300.
Easy peasey daily driver. I have en E36 (325 though) and at around 160,000 miles, very very little ever goes wrong with it. I will keep mine until it becomes uneconomical to repair, but every time I have it serviced the mechanic tells me it doesn't need anything doing to it! You'll be fine. 
96 e36 323i here as a daily drive currently just about to tick over to 129k.
The alarms are prone to minor faults.
The electric windows are prone to minor faults.
Various bushes will likely be tired/worn as with any older car.
Expect to top up the oil anywhere between 100ml-1000ml every 1k depending on oil used and driving style.
Wing mirror glass is often discoloured.
Rear quarter window seals are often perished.
They're pretty bullet proof generally and any issues are usually minor and cheap to fix.
The alarms are prone to minor faults.
The electric windows are prone to minor faults.
Various bushes will likely be tired/worn as with any older car.
Expect to top up the oil anywhere between 100ml-1000ml every 1k depending on oil used and driving style.
Wing mirror glass is often discoloured.
Rear quarter window seals are often perished.
They're pretty bullet proof generally and any issues are usually minor and cheap to fix.
I run a 96 328i and its ace!
It's nice and quick, reliable (not had any breakdowns over 15k miles), servicing is fairly cheap as are parts. Its very comfortable (can drive from Southampton to Derby in it and feel fresh at the other end) and for the performance you have it can be fairly economical.
I was umming and arring over getting one before I did and I'm really glad that I did, it's so much fun!
Edited to add, have a look over on e36coupe.com.
It's nice and quick, reliable (not had any breakdowns over 15k miles), servicing is fairly cheap as are parts. Its very comfortable (can drive from Southampton to Derby in it and feel fresh at the other end) and for the performance you have it can be fairly economical.
I was umming and arring over getting one before I did and I'm really glad that I did, it's so much fun!
Edited to add, have a look over on e36coupe.com.
Edited by davel* on Friday 17th December 13:13
i run a 97 328 as a daily. It gives 30mpg overall, up to 37 on the motorway. If well maintained it should be intrinsically cheap to run, acknowledging those things already mentioned. Nikasil shouldnt be an issue. If its had a steel liner engine its ok. If it hasnt it should still be ok as the sulphur problem is resolved. Mine is nikasil. The best thing is that its fun every time i drive it. Only having bought it do i realise what a following and how sought after the 328 is.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
well why do some fail and others not? Sure historic damage could be a problem today, but surely if a nikasil engine is ok today it ought not suffer problems assuming low sulphur fuel is used? The original nikasil engine in my 328 has done 75k miles but i was under the impression it was no longer at risk. Are there steps i should take to minimise risks? We have an E36 328i Sport in the household as a daily driver. Much more fun to drive than the E46's we've had before without any loss of practicality, maybe a sacrifice in refinement but still an immensely capable car.
Just clicked over 119k and feels tighter than my 14k mile Golf. I would have no hesitation in jumping in it and doing a European raod trip
They are probably as cheap as they will ever be so I'd get in quick and bag one of the rapidly dwindling number of good ones that are left
Just clicked over 119k and feels tighter than my 14k mile Golf. I would have no hesitation in jumping in it and doing a European raod trip
They are probably as cheap as they will ever be so I'd get in quick and bag one of the rapidly dwindling number of good ones that are left
I'll agree with caboose.
I had a 1995 M plated 328i that i bought in 2004. After owning it a short while i noticed it had started to use a lot of oil and was diagnosed by an independant and then subsequently at the dealers as suffering from bore wear caused by nikasil coatings.
There seems to be a fallacy, regardless if it looks borne out of common sense, that the bore wear issue was caused by high sulphur content in low grade supermarket fuels in the late 90's, and because thats now not the case anymore, the low sulphur content should preserve the engine.
Fact is there are a lot of OE nikasil engined BMW's out there performing faultlessly but there are still some that let go today due to it, when fuel quality isn't an issue and all things point to the fact it shouldn't be a problem anymore.
Seeing as the E36 has now travelled (mostly) through its chav image, the prices are at very affordable levels as a winter beater/daily driver and the nikasil cars are at least 12 years old, theres no need to be arsing about looking at cars that could be potential problems, unless you don't mind just binning it should the worst happen.
Decent steel linered M52's are still commanding silly money for what is a common or garden 2.8 engine in a car worth probably about £1500. My view is get a post March 98 built one or a warrantied block changed car
I had a 1995 M plated 328i that i bought in 2004. After owning it a short while i noticed it had started to use a lot of oil and was diagnosed by an independant and then subsequently at the dealers as suffering from bore wear caused by nikasil coatings.
There seems to be a fallacy, regardless if it looks borne out of common sense, that the bore wear issue was caused by high sulphur content in low grade supermarket fuels in the late 90's, and because thats now not the case anymore, the low sulphur content should preserve the engine.
Fact is there are a lot of OE nikasil engined BMW's out there performing faultlessly but there are still some that let go today due to it, when fuel quality isn't an issue and all things point to the fact it shouldn't be a problem anymore.
Seeing as the E36 has now travelled (mostly) through its chav image, the prices are at very affordable levels as a winter beater/daily driver and the nikasil cars are at least 12 years old, theres no need to be arsing about looking at cars that could be potential problems, unless you don't mind just binning it should the worst happen.
Decent steel linered M52's are still commanding silly money for what is a common or garden 2.8 engine in a car worth probably about £1500. My view is get a post March 98 built one or a warrantied block changed car
I've owned a '97 328 since 2004 and love it. I've replaced lots of parts purely as upgrades but never out of necessity. Mine has a steel liner engine and has proved faultless over the years. Great to drive, good torque and lots of fun.
The b
d wouldn't reverse up the drive tonight though, but TBH it's steep and I really was expecting a bit much...
The b
d wouldn't reverse up the drive tonight though, but TBH it's steep and I really was expecting a bit much...98 328i Sport as my daily driver. 
A few little electrical issues but nothing that stops me enjoying the car every time I drive it, needs a new set of tyres at the moment but then every car wears them out, currently at about 130k and was planning on moving on to an E46 330i sometime next year but I'm in no rush.
It's even done a trackday due to the Chimaera being too noisey.
A few little electrical issues but nothing that stops me enjoying the car every time I drive it, needs a new set of tyres at the moment but then every car wears them out, currently at about 130k and was planning on moving on to an E46 330i sometime next year but I'm in no rush.
It's even done a trackday due to the Chimaera being too noisey.
pstruck said:
Would a very low mileage car which had previously been stored for a fairly long period be of any particular concern?
That all depends on the length of time of storage and the conditions that the car has been stored in: out in the open?, in a damp garage?, in a dry barn?, plus what care (if any), was taken of the car during it's storage: engine fired up every few weeks to prevent all the oil from draining down to the sump and keep all the engine ancillaries in good order, moved around every few weeks to keep all the drive train in good working order?.One of the worst things to happen to a car is for it to be sat in the same position for months/years on end doing nothing. Seals dry out and perish, corrosion gets a grip of parts, condensation and moisture can get into electrical components and as mentioned before, if sat long enough, all the oil drains down to the sump leaving engine parts dry (not ideal when someone then comes along, throws in some fresh petrol and tries to fire it up!).
A lot of cars, such as old Ferrari's/ Lamborghini's etc., gained a reputation for suffering oil leaks, starting problems, rust etc., because owners would use them for a few summer months then park them up from Autumn through to the following summer, not realizing that by not using the car on a regular basis, they were creating the problems themselves, it was just that they were "poorly made cars".
Had the cars been used on a regular basis, the seals would not have dried out: so no oil leaks, moisture wouldn't have got into electrics and body cavities: so no electrical gremlins (or fewer gremlins at least), and a lot less body corrosion, etc., etc.
Cars need to be used, it's there main purpose in life, not to just around waiting!.
Thanks 4rephill, a very detailed response and very helpful.
The car I am tempted to go to see has been stored, but has gone through a 'recommisioning' process and quite a bit of money spent on it since it has been put back on the road. What worries me is what else might crop up after a few more miles/months.
The car is quite a distance from home, so requires a bit of a train trek to view it. On paper it lloks very nice. I just don't want to be going all that way to see a car that may cause me a lot of problems and future expenditure.
The car I am tempted to go to see has been stored, but has gone through a 'recommisioning' process and quite a bit of money spent on it since it has been put back on the road. What worries me is what else might crop up after a few more miles/months.
The car is quite a distance from home, so requires a bit of a train trek to view it. On paper it lloks very nice. I just don't want to be going all that way to see a car that may cause me a lot of problems and future expenditure.
going back to the nikasil engines ive read somewhere that it isnt a good idea to do lots of short runs in them with the engine never warming up fully you can tell if the engine is nikasil or steel liner at the back of the block between the sump and starter steel has steel plate with a allen bolt nikasil a pear shaped alloy casting lug
pstruck said:
Thanks 4rephill, a very detailed response and very helpful.
The car I am tempted to go to see has been stored, but has gone through a 'recommisioning' process and quite a bit of money spent on it since it has been put back on the road. What worries me is what else might crop up after a few more miles/months.
The car is quite a distance from home, so requires a bit of a train trek to view it. On paper it lloks very nice. I just don't want to be going all that way to see a car that may cause me a lot of problems and future expenditure.
It sounds like they've gone about things the right way with this car. The car I am tempted to go to see has been stored, but has gone through a 'recommisioning' process and quite a bit of money spent on it since it has been put back on the road. What worries me is what else might crop up after a few more miles/months.
The car is quite a distance from home, so requires a bit of a train trek to view it. On paper it lloks very nice. I just don't want to be going all that way to see a car that may cause me a lot of problems and future expenditure.
If you still have concerns about the car and want to be reassured before traveling all the way to see it then I'd be making a few more inquiries about what was done in the recommissioning process and what the money was spent on.
Make sure they know you are genuinely interested in the car and not doubting what they are saying, pointing out that you are just reassuring yourself before traveling all that way.
on this:
pstruck said:
What worries me is what else might crop up after a few more miles/months.
That's always a worry with any car you buy though.
With a stored car the worry is mainly about what may have deteriorated during it's time in storage.
With a car that's been used constantly and regularly the worry is about what may be about to wear out during use.
Unfortunately, when you're buying a car, you're also taking a gamble that nothing major is going to go wrong, hence why you should buy on condition and gut feeling, rather than purely on things like low mileage (a car that's done 5K miles in 10years can have a lot more mechanical issues than a car that's done 40K miles in two years).
If the condition of the car in question looks and feels right, the service history all tallies up, the price is acceptable and the seller doesn't raise any alarm bells to your instincts then it's the right car for you. However, if any of these things don't seem right to you then the best advice is to walk away, after all, there are plenty of these cars available.
As for the Nikasil issue, anyone who says that if the issue hasn't occurred by now then it's not going to happen is talking nonsense. As others have said, to this day some of these engines are still failing due to premature bore wear caused by the issue.
If the bores were starting to be attacked by the high sulphur fuel "back in the day", then the damage is already present, it's not going to repair itself because the fuel quality improved. This damage will then help to accelerate the natural bore wear faster than would normally be expected, hence engine failures still occurring.
As with anything to do with cars, this is going to be another gamble.
A steel lined engine does have advantages over the earlier Nikasil lined engines, but if the steel lined engine has been abused and thraped from cold with no careful warming up first, then it too could suffer from premature bore wear, there are no absolute guarantees.
Sorry for the length of the post, but I hope it's of some more help to you and others.
Good luck finding the right car.
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