E30 touring tips and a q..
Discussion
Evening all,
I am currently considering an '89 e30 325 touring for my first car.
It is a car that I have seen advertised locally and looks really quite lovely.
However, it is an auto... Not ideal for a first car but everything else seems good. Long MOT good body etc..
I was hoping to get your thoughts on this particular model, problems, positives and thoughts on the gearbox etc..
Thanks in advance!
I am currently considering an '89 e30 325 touring for my first car.
It is a car that I have seen advertised locally and looks really quite lovely.
However, it is an auto... Not ideal for a first car but everything else seems good. Long MOT good body etc..
I was hoping to get your thoughts on this particular model, problems, positives and thoughts on the gearbox etc..
Thanks in advance!
Great cars but getting on now so look for rust and badly repaired body & paint.
Get yourself over to www.e30zone.co.uk There's a wealth of knowledge and tips for buying.
C.
Get yourself over to www.e30zone.co.uk There's a wealth of knowledge and tips for buying.
C.
Definitely get over to E30Zone. That site is invaluable for an E30 owner. Probably some good cars for sale too.
Rust is the big one if it's a car you want to keep for some time. Tailgates rust, front valences rust, sunroof panels rust, most other bits... rust.
Check what state wiper motors and heater blowers are in. If they don't work (or don't work properly) then they can occasionally be rebuilt (guides on E30 zone) but usually need replacing.
Check the ignition works properly as ignition switches can be tempremental.
Check the exhaust. They rust. Also not that cheap to replace.
I'll be selling mine in a few months if you're still looking then.
Rust is the big one if it's a car you want to keep for some time. Tailgates rust, front valences rust, sunroof panels rust, most other bits... rust.
Check what state wiper motors and heater blowers are in. If they don't work (or don't work properly) then they can occasionally be rebuilt (guides on E30 zone) but usually need replacing.
Check the ignition works properly as ignition switches can be tempremental.
Check the exhaust. They rust. Also not that cheap to replace.
I'll be selling mine in a few months if you're still looking then.
I own two currently. as people have said - check the tailgate area (open it and look underneath - it's probably rusting underneath the leading edge.)
check the battery tray isn't rusted out, make sure everything works (if it's got headlight wash wipe it will be a miracle if they work - big bonus if they do). Check the rear arches and windscreen scuttle.
These cars rust inside out so if there's bubbling on the outside you know it's going to be bad inside.
Leather is a major plus. cloth sports seats in good condition are rare and valuable. Sport leather seats in good condition are very valuable, comfort leather much less so. comfort leather seats have no side support (as cloth comfort) and are slightly rounded whereas sports seats really hug.
check the rear windscreen demists and wash/wipe work. the rear screen was bottle is on the left hand side as you open the tailgate (you have to open the sides of the boot - you'll see what I mean) to have a look at the bottle although you refill it from the little flap on the side of the tailgate.
If it's got an M tech 2 kit they are worth a shed load. SE side skirts? f
k all. 15" BBS alloys are popular but it's the centre caps that are really expensive - £30 a cap from BMW (and E34 caps don't fit). check for leaks around the head gasket and generally. They are great motors if you look after them. Oh and make sure the wipers work on intermittent - it's a straightforward but time consuming job to change the wiper motor. it's all the little jobs that add up to be honest.
I absolutely love e30's to be honest and currently do approx 45,000 miles a year in one. No, I'm kidding!
check the battery tray isn't rusted out, make sure everything works (if it's got headlight wash wipe it will be a miracle if they work - big bonus if they do). Check the rear arches and windscreen scuttle.
These cars rust inside out so if there's bubbling on the outside you know it's going to be bad inside.
Leather is a major plus. cloth sports seats in good condition are rare and valuable. Sport leather seats in good condition are very valuable, comfort leather much less so. comfort leather seats have no side support (as cloth comfort) and are slightly rounded whereas sports seats really hug.
check the rear windscreen demists and wash/wipe work. the rear screen was bottle is on the left hand side as you open the tailgate (you have to open the sides of the boot - you'll see what I mean) to have a look at the bottle although you refill it from the little flap on the side of the tailgate.
If it's got an M tech 2 kit they are worth a shed load. SE side skirts? f
k all. 15" BBS alloys are popular but it's the centre caps that are really expensive - £30 a cap from BMW (and E34 caps don't fit). check for leaks around the head gasket and generally. They are great motors if you look after them. Oh and make sure the wipers work on intermittent - it's a straightforward but time consuming job to change the wiper motor. it's all the little jobs that add up to be honest. I absolutely love e30's to be honest and currently do approx 45,000 miles a year in one. No, I'm kidding!
Edited by Oi_Oi_Savaloy on Thursday 27th January 13:18
I own an E30 325 Sport Tech one, I know it's not a touring but I think my running experiences will be similar. Yes rust can be an issue as described earlier, but if I remember correctly the tourings were built in the 5 Series factory at Dingolfing and did have better rust protection than either the Saloons or Convertibles.
I'd personally avoid an automatic a) because it's your first car and I think the manual would be more rewarding to drive and b) the fuel consumption on mine is only arouund 25 mpg and I'd think an auto would struggle to even do that. Maybe look at a couple more to get a feel of what each one of them is like and what to exspect in terms of what money you have to spend.
Definately head over to the E30 zone because there's alot of useful advice on there as well as both cars and numerous parts for sale.
Good luck in your search and what ever you decide to buy.
I'd personally avoid an automatic a) because it's your first car and I think the manual would be more rewarding to drive and b) the fuel consumption on mine is only arouund 25 mpg and I'd think an auto would struggle to even do that. Maybe look at a couple more to get a feel of what each one of them is like and what to exspect in terms of what money you have to spend.
Definately head over to the E30 zone because there's alot of useful advice on there as well as both cars and numerous parts for sale.
Good luck in your search and what ever you decide to buy.
I'm lucky - I do mainly motorway miles and am achieving 31.4! Absolutely unbelievable to be honest - especially when it's done 221,000 miles now. It's st around town though.
And you're right - the tourings (and cabs) were built on a separate line and appear to be better rust protected.
Great cars.
And you can work on them yourself too.
t around town though.And you're right - the tourings (and cabs) were built on a separate line and appear to be better rust protected.
Great cars.
And you can work on them yourself too.
Oi_Oi_Savaloy said:
I'm lucky - I do mainly motorway miles and am achieving 31.4! Absolutely unbelievable to be honest - especially when it's done 221,000 miles now. It's st around town though.
And you're right - the tourings (and cabs) were built on a separate line and appear to be better rust protected.
Great cars.
And you can work on them yourself too.
You beat me in the mileage stakes... 216,000 here!t around town though.And you're right - the tourings (and cabs) were built on a separate line and appear to be better rust protected.
Great cars.
And you can work on them yourself too.
Gassing Station | BMW General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff