e36 328 buyer's guide?
Discussion
i'd add rust anywhere.
Check the gearbox to make sure the spring that pops the the gear level back across from 5th is working. its not terrible but expensive to fix, annoying and makes it hard to find 3rd.
Also check for history of a suspension refresh bushes wise. If you havent got recipts or proof its done then budget to get it done yourself. Parts are cheap but labour is intensive.
Look for a water pump change also, reccomended at every 80,000 miles.
ETA: dont worry too much about defects with interior trim, its cheap as chips. I've seen full leather interiors go for £50 (seats+door cards)
Check the gearbox to make sure the spring that pops the the gear level back across from 5th is working. its not terrible but expensive to fix, annoying and makes it hard to find 3rd.
Also check for history of a suspension refresh bushes wise. If you havent got recipts or proof its done then budget to get it done yourself. Parts are cheap but labour is intensive.
Look for a water pump change also, reccomended at every 80,000 miles.
ETA: dont worry too much about defects with interior trim, its cheap as chips. I've seen full leather interiors go for £50 (seats+door cards)
Check the bounce on the rear dampers, too.
Mine had had most of the bushes done before I bought it but, having just replaced the shocks (even with "lowly" pattern parts!), it's just become apparent how utterly wrecked the original 95k mile ones were.
My experience here : http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Mine had had most of the bushes done before I bought it but, having just replaced the shocks (even with "lowly" pattern parts!), it's just become apparent how utterly wrecked the original 95k mile ones were.
My experience here : http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
1) Knocking from the rear shock mounts every 20~40K miles.
2) Headlights misting up.
3) Wiring for the rear lights chaffing inside the plastic sleeve around the boot lid hinge causing erroneous bulb failure warnings and sometimes fires.
4) Brake light switch going faulty every couple of years.
5) Electric windows playing up.
6) Final stage resistor failing resulting in air con switching on and off randomly.
7) Crank case vent valve clogging up resulting in excessive oil consumption.
8) Suspension bushes perishing.
9) Radiator splitting open.
10) Radiator expansion tank splitting open.
11) camshaft and crankshaft sensors becoming faulty causing poor/no running.
To name but a few!.
On a more positive note, the exhausts seem to last well!
To be fair though, it needs to be remembered that these are now 12~16 year old cars!.
2) Headlights misting up.
3) Wiring for the rear lights chaffing inside the plastic sleeve around the boot lid hinge causing erroneous bulb failure warnings and sometimes fires.
4) Brake light switch going faulty every couple of years.
5) Electric windows playing up.
6) Final stage resistor failing resulting in air con switching on and off randomly.
7) Crank case vent valve clogging up resulting in excessive oil consumption.
8) Suspension bushes perishing.
9) Radiator splitting open.
10) Radiator expansion tank splitting open.
11) camshaft and crankshaft sensors becoming faulty causing poor/no running.
To name but a few!.
On a more positive note, the exhausts seem to last well!
To be fair though, it needs to be remembered that these are now 12~16 year old cars!.
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