VFR800 - not starting, any help gratefully received
Discussion
Hi All
I replaced my broken rear subframe yesterday and all was going fairly well until I went to start the bike. If you know the VFR you'll know that there is a noice when the ignition is turned on as (I assume) the fuel pump/injection is primed/checked. There was no such noise and unsurprisingly the bike won't start.
I think that everything was plugged back together properly but I did find the following not attached to anything. It looks pretty fundamental but I can't see where the hell it should be plugged into.


Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks in advance...
I replaced my broken rear subframe yesterday and all was going fairly well until I went to start the bike. If you know the VFR you'll know that there is a noice when the ignition is turned on as (I assume) the fuel pump/injection is primed/checked. There was no such noise and unsurprisingly the bike won't start.
I think that everything was plugged back together properly but I did find the following not attached to anything. It looks pretty fundamental but I can't see where the hell it should be plugged into.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks in advance...

rcsyoung said:
Yes - there is power, all of them come on as usual. I'll have to double check if the FI light stays on though.
That still smells somehow like a kill switch fault or similar though, doesn't it? Any click from the starter when you press the button?I wouldn't have thought that missing pipework would cause the symptoms you have - it's more likely you'd disturbed something electrical, isn't it?
N Dentressangle said:
That still smells somehow like a kill switch fault or similar though, doesn't it? Any click from the starter when you press the button?
I wouldn't have thought that missing pipework would cause the symptoms you have - it's more likely you'd disturbed something electrical, isn't it?
Agreed. The started motor will turn over it just won't fire - presumably because the fuel pump isn't pumping. If that pipe is for fuel and not an overflow then its possible that there is some sort of safety cut out...? Otherwise I can only assume that something in and amongst the electrics is not plugged in to where it should be.I wouldn't have thought that missing pipework would cause the symptoms you have - it's more likely you'd disturbed something electrical, isn't it?
:-(
rcsyoung said:
Agreed. The started motor will turn over it just won't fire - presumably because the fuel pump isn't pumping. If that pipe is for fuel and not an overflow then its possible that there is some sort of safety cut out...? Otherwise I can only assume that something in and amongst the electrics is not plugged in to where it should be.
:-(
The loose pipe looks more like a vacuum pipe than anything else. Might cause rough running, but not fuel pump u/s.:-(
Fuel pump fuse or wiring to it from the front - back of the bike all ok? They normally sit in the tank - dislodged spade connector? You could always pull the comnnectors off it and see if it's getting current?
I would take off and clean all connectors around the fuel pump and trace back to ECU - unplug and replug everything around the ECU, using switch cleaner/lubricant. Check fuse too.
You can test it with everything off the bike as you are just listening for the fuel pump priming when you turn the ignition on. No noise, no worky.
You can test it with everything off the bike as you are just listening for the fuel pump priming when you turn the ignition on. No noise, no worky.
Heretic said:
Ok, not knowing what year, so I am going to take a guess
some of those had a vacuum operated petcock (fuel valve out of the tank) for safety reasons. If no vacuum to this valve, no fuel leaves the tank
Sorry - it's one of the last of the FI's before the change to the VTEC. I was wondering about the fuel too but can't find where it might have come unplugged from. Maddening.some of those had a vacuum operated petcock (fuel valve out of the tank) for safety reasons. If no vacuum to this valve, no fuel leaves the tank
I'll try and fault find tomorrow night - just didn't have the time tonight.
Got a mobile mechanic in (Julian Cameron - a good guy that I've used before). Took him about an hour to find the fault and about 2 minutes to fix it. The fuel cut relay wiring was faulty. £63 later and it's running and I'm back to work on it tomorrow. Result.
And even better it wasn't something that I'd bodged - just happened to be at the same time as me replacing the rear subframe.
And even better it wasn't something that I'd bodged - just happened to be at the same time as me replacing the rear subframe.
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