Urgent help required - GSXR 750 forks damaged
Discussion
Hi,
Stupidly I've got myself in a right problem here.
Basically I had the front wheel off today and when putting it back on I was tightening the pinch bolts up underneath and over tightened one causing a small piece of the casting to break away.
I keep kicking myself and knew I should have just gone and brought a small torque wrench to torque it up properly.
Anyways the main problem here is time and money, I have just literally got the bike back (4 days ago) from having the front forks rebuilt by my local garage. The dilemma I face is that finding these is hard work and there is only two pairs on fleebay with no faults or damage and those are £340 & £350. Then I'll have to tack on money for a rebuild and then labour to swap over the forks etc etc.
I know a few of you on here will tell me to attempt it myself but I don't feel confident on a bike of this nature. My little 125 however would be a different story. Time is the next problem, in 10 days time I'm off to the ring for the weekend then round europe for a week.
Sorry for the essay I'll get to my question, could I potentially bond (Epoxy resin/ally weld?) the broken shard back on? It is so thin on the underside can't be any more than 1/1.5mm so shirley it can't be structural?
The pinch bolt still pinches and the threaded side is still in one piece with no other visible cracks anywhere. It's literally just the pressure I put on the bolt causing it to crack the casting.
I thought with it cracked on the shoulder of the bolt that piece is only there to support the bolt no? It is a clean break and sits back on okay.
Any thoughts or help would be greatly appreciated. Is it fixable? Would you ride it? Still can't believe I've done it!
Rj
Stupidly I've got myself in a right problem here.
Basically I had the front wheel off today and when putting it back on I was tightening the pinch bolts up underneath and over tightened one causing a small piece of the casting to break away.
I keep kicking myself and knew I should have just gone and brought a small torque wrench to torque it up properly.
Anyways the main problem here is time and money, I have just literally got the bike back (4 days ago) from having the front forks rebuilt by my local garage. The dilemma I face is that finding these is hard work and there is only two pairs on fleebay with no faults or damage and those are £340 & £350. Then I'll have to tack on money for a rebuild and then labour to swap over the forks etc etc.
I know a few of you on here will tell me to attempt it myself but I don't feel confident on a bike of this nature. My little 125 however would be a different story. Time is the next problem, in 10 days time I'm off to the ring for the weekend then round europe for a week.
Sorry for the essay I'll get to my question, could I potentially bond (Epoxy resin/ally weld?) the broken shard back on? It is so thin on the underside can't be any more than 1/1.5mm so shirley it can't be structural?
The pinch bolt still pinches and the threaded side is still in one piece with no other visible cracks anywhere. It's literally just the pressure I put on the bolt causing it to crack the casting.
I thought with it cracked on the shoulder of the bolt that piece is only there to support the bolt no? It is a clean break and sits back on okay.
Any thoughts or help would be greatly appreciated. Is it fixable? Would you ride it? Still can't believe I've done it!
Rj
Sorry pal, but noway in hell would I ride my xjr with forks like that and I wouldn`t trust a repair either, they put up with some hammer. £300-£350 quid ain`t alot when it`s your life your playing with.Imagine what could happen if the strain caused the other side to break.
Get some bought then stick yours on fleebay, somebody will want them for parts.
Get some bought then stick yours on fleebay, somebody will want them for parts.
There's no glue/epoxy etc. that's going to hold that properly. It might be weldable but I doubt it would be satisfactory and I wouldn't trust it anyway.
I'm afraid you'll need, minimum, a new fork bottom (or complete leg) which will involve dismantling/refitting or servicing again.
I had similar happen a few years ago and ended up buying new forks (the silver lining to the cloud) although I did later get some replacement fork bottoms to fix the broken forks.
I'm afraid you'll need, minimum, a new fork bottom (or complete leg) which will involve dismantling/refitting or servicing again.
I had similar happen a few years ago and ended up buying new forks (the silver lining to the cloud) although I did later get some replacement fork bottoms to fix the broken forks.
Everyone has their own attitude to risk mate, ask 10 people and you could get 10 different answers..some people fret over a nick in a tyre, others take them down to the wire before even considering a change.
I would try some metal weld as a tempoary repair, it'd most likely hold IMHO but id take a 12mm spanner in the top of my tank bag and just check it and t'other every fuel stop, the other pinch bolt will hold the axle on its own.
Id certainly look at getting the fork changed when I could but I wouldnt lose a holiday ive paid up for over it
I would try some metal weld as a tempoary repair, it'd most likely hold IMHO but id take a 12mm spanner in the top of my tank bag and just check it and t'other every fuel stop, the other pinch bolt will hold the axle on its own.
Id certainly look at getting the fork changed when I could but I wouldnt lose a holiday ive paid up for over it
podman said:
Everyone has their own attitude to risk mate, ask 10 people and you could get 10 different answers..some people fret over a nick in a tyre, others take them down to the wire before even considering a change.
I would try some metal weld as a tempoary repair, it'd most likely hold IMHO but id take a 12mm spanner in the top of my tank bag and just check it and t'other every fuel stop, the other pinch bolt will hold the axle on its own.
Id certainly look at getting the fork changed when I could but I wouldnt lose a holiday ive paid up for over it
+1. I'd ride it like that. Unlike the crack shown on the Ktech forks it's out of the critical area. A washer under the bolt head might spread the load over the remaining area better.I would try some metal weld as a tempoary repair, it'd most likely hold IMHO but id take a 12mm spanner in the top of my tank bag and just check it and t'other every fuel stop, the other pinch bolt will hold the axle on its own.
Id certainly look at getting the fork changed when I could but I wouldnt lose a holiday ive paid up for over it
Got to admit although the pinch bolts are just a fail safe for the axle nut (I'd ride it if was just a bolt missing) I'd not be wanting to ride that with part of the casing missing ... If you hit a pot hole or something there is a risk of lower fork failing and the axle dropping ...
Pictures from the front of the fork would help assess it better tbh
Pictures from the front of the fork would help assess it better tbh
I agree it's rideable, nowhere near as bad as mine was (properly FUBAR'ed) just keep an eye on it, that said I couldn't relax and would be wary of hard use/abuse until it was fixed, it would constantly be on my mind.
But IMO glue is a waste of time (other than cosmetics) and may even hide any further cracking that may happen? Welding may make it worse, as the kind of alloy that fork bottoms are made from is not easy to weld and the heat involved may cause other issues - 'O' rings, seals etc. unless the fork bottom is removed first? but then if you're going to that effort you should replace the part.
But IMO glue is a waste of time (other than cosmetics) and may even hide any further cracking that may happen? Welding may make it worse, as the kind of alloy that fork bottoms are made from is not easy to weld and the heat involved may cause other issues - 'O' rings, seals etc. unless the fork bottom is removed first? but then if you're going to that effort you should replace the part.
as someone said already - you'll get a range of responses. Personally I wouldn't ride that. I wouldn't try to fix it either. You might find some lowers instead of complete forks or even just cough for some complete forks so you can still complete you trip and then repair those. Sell whichever pair on when you're done and you shouldn't be to out of pocket.
Give redcar suzuki a call monday morn to see if they can sell you a lower - no idea how much they'd be.
Give redcar suzuki a call monday morn to see if they can sell you a lower - no idea how much they'd be.
Thanks everybody for all your replies and advice. The sensible thing is to just pay up and swallow it and get it done as I too would not feel safe riding on it. I've already gone through it in my mind and thought on the off chance that should an accident occur and be it down to that then I would be stupid all over 500 pounds.
My problem is time frame, all my local bike shops have a waiting list on work, ranging from 3 to 6 weeks. Will have to start ringing round a bit further a field.
Thanks again.
Rj
My problem is time frame, all my local bike shops have a waiting list on work, ranging from 3 to 6 weeks. Will have to start ringing round a bit further a field.
Thanks again.
Rj
Quick thought here people, been googling like mad and have read from a few people that on their bikes they replaced just the fork lower (Slider?)
I assumed this was one piece on the suzuki and that the chrome stanchion was moulded in, but by some slim chance are they separate? I can't seem to find one on eBay or online in general which kind of confirms my suspicions, does anybody know if this part is available separately?
Thanks
Rj
I assumed this was one piece on the suzuki and that the chrome stanchion was moulded in, but by some slim chance are they separate? I can't seem to find one on eBay or online in general which kind of confirms my suspicions, does anybody know if this part is available separately?
Thanks
Rj
I'm Rick james said:
I assumed this was one piece on the suzuki and that the chrome stanchion was moulded in, but by some slim chance are they separate? I can't seem to find one on eBay or online in general which kind of confirms my suspicions, does anybody know if this part is available separately?
Thanks
Rj
Suzuki will only sell you a lower leg complete i.e. the chrome slider bit and the knuckle you've broken. The two do separate but generally people do it to screw in a new stanchion from an aftermarket source. They are a cock to separate.Thanks
Rj
Ahh right okay, but they would potentially sell a lower leg with that knuckle on then? I'm having no luck with finding spares to gain an idea on. Ideally if I could just buy the lower leg it would make life a lot easier. Can't seem to find any decent spares sites online that have it listed.
Will continue the hunt.
Cheers mate.
Rj
Will continue the hunt.
Cheers mate.
Rj
as he said^ it's about 354 (that might be + vat it doesn't say) for the piece (ie the chrome leg which comes with the knuckle part attached which you've bust). part 51110-29G00 same part as the gsxr600k4. (but double check that - it's not on me!) http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/ have it in stock with free delivery.
The straightest pair (just about the only straight ones!) on ebay appears to be theses for £200:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GSXR600-GSXR-600-...
The straightest pair (just about the only straight ones!) on ebay appears to be theses for £200:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GSXR600-GSXR-600-...
am I wrong in my thinking
the spindle is torqued in at about 60 nm at the unbroken end
two pinch bolts at 25 ish nm further nip this
then you have one and probably a quarter at the other end
that wheel wont be going anywhere
id stick a washer on the snapped bolt section but other than that I think it would be fine.
one has to wonder how much you nipped it up
was it ready to go or did you force it like the hulk
if its the first then I wouldn't worry as you've been riding it like that for months
if it was b then id take up arm wrestling
the spindle is torqued in at about 60 nm at the unbroken end
two pinch bolts at 25 ish nm further nip this
then you have one and probably a quarter at the other end
that wheel wont be going anywhere
id stick a washer on the snapped bolt section but other than that I think it would be fine.
one has to wonder how much you nipped it up
was it ready to go or did you force it like the hulk
if its the first then I wouldn't worry as you've been riding it like that for months
if it was b then id take up arm wrestling
I can't see that little piece being load bearing in any way shape or form. To be honest I didn't force it, I spun it in by hand and then with a 1/4 drive rachet just nipped it tight then as it was getting tight I thought another half turn will do just to make sure....then the silver crack appeared. I backed it off and the piece fell away.
Just trying to price things up now and will hit the garages tomorrow to see who can fit me in.
Rj
Just trying to price things up now and will hit the garages tomorrow to see who can fit me in.
Rj
Still struggling with what to do at the moment because of my limited time. Although I have discovered something and wondered if anybody on here can shed some light on it for me.
I have been told by several people that the bottom calliper mount can't split from the stanchion, and when you look they are only sold as a pair. However online I did find someone selling just the chrome stanchion...meaning either he's wrong or they do infact split.
I have taken then spindle out and the wheel and had a look up from the base of the forks and have found an allen bolt. On a normal set of forks this is used to hold the internal fork tubes in and it's all virtually secured by this, is it the same principal on USD forks? Only because on a regular set of conventional forks the right way up the allen bolt is in the top and fixes into the outer tubes, but with it being on the bottom I can only see that it holds the calliper mount on. Unless I am of course completely wrong? And I presume I am. Can anybody offer an opinion.
Would be much appreciated.
Rj
I have been told by several people that the bottom calliper mount can't split from the stanchion, and when you look they are only sold as a pair. However online I did find someone selling just the chrome stanchion...meaning either he's wrong or they do infact split.
I have taken then spindle out and the wheel and had a look up from the base of the forks and have found an allen bolt. On a normal set of forks this is used to hold the internal fork tubes in and it's all virtually secured by this, is it the same principal on USD forks? Only because on a regular set of conventional forks the right way up the allen bolt is in the top and fixes into the outer tubes, but with it being on the bottom I can only see that it holds the calliper mount on. Unless I am of course completely wrong? And I presume I am. Can anybody offer an opinion.
Would be much appreciated.
Rj
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