GSXR1000 k4 F1 problem
Discussion
Was out on the bike yesterday and around 15 minutes after refuelling travelling at maybe 70mph it started to die and came to a stop. F1 showed up on the dash and red light was on. It wouldn't start so I called the AA. Waited around 90 mins and AA turn up and the bike starts first time and no warnings on the dash. AA man couldn't do anything so I took the chance and rode home for around 45 mins and no problem. Anyone experienced this and have any idea what it could be?
Found this on Gixxer.com in response to the same situation as yours.
Open your rear seat and you'll see a black cap covering a connector/harness on the left side of the seat. If you take the cap off, you'll see it appears to be a normal harness. With your key in the ignition and bike turned to "on" (but not running), take a paperclip and short the two connectors out (by touching the two contacts together). This is known as a "ghetto dealer mode switch". It should display the error code on your display instead of just FI now. You might want to consider buying JeffW's Dealer Mode switch...He's an upstanding guy (ask anybody on gixxer.com) and sells great products.
Quote:
GSXR Fuel Injection (FI) Code List:
C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR
C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR
C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1
C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2
C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3
C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4
C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR
C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT
C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR
C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1
C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2
C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3
C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4
C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM
C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL
C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (1000 ONLY)
Open your rear seat and you'll see a black cap covering a connector/harness on the left side of the seat. If you take the cap off, you'll see it appears to be a normal harness. With your key in the ignition and bike turned to "on" (but not running), take a paperclip and short the two connectors out (by touching the two contacts together). This is known as a "ghetto dealer mode switch". It should display the error code on your display instead of just FI now. You might want to consider buying JeffW's Dealer Mode switch...He's an upstanding guy (ask anybody on gixxer.com) and sells great products.
Quote:
GSXR Fuel Injection (FI) Code List:
C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR
C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR
C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1
C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2
C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3
C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4
C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR
C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT
C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR
C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1
C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2
C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3
C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4
C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM
C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL
C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (1000 ONLY)
http://wotid.com/gsxr/content/view/22/35/
Get a workshop manual from here if you haven't already got one. Follow the guided diagnosis for the fault you have got....
Could be a dodgy/blocked pump or a wiring issues. Use the manual to help you check the wiring /resistance /connectors etc
Get a workshop manual from here if you haven't already got one. Follow the guided diagnosis for the fault you have got....
Could be a dodgy/blocked pump or a wiring issues. Use the manual to help you check the wiring /resistance /connectors etc
Edited by DuraAce on Sunday 10th April 22:10
Alan I had the same thing on Saturday......................freaky!!!!
My 2010 GSXR1000 was up for mot and the weather was ok, I set of and the weather got bad, sleet and snow!!!! Got to test center, passed, nearly home again and the fuel light came on, filled up, got home which is only 2 miles away. Rinsed the bike off and washed it. I started it up while drying it out and after 5 mins it stalled! Now this bike is treated like a baby and has never had a problem. Anyway, I restarted it only for it to stall again, tried to start it again and it came up with FI fault. I carried on drying it and put it away slightly concerned. I lifted the tank and checked for water anywhere but could see none, checked all the fuses and connections. A few hours later I went out and tried to start it when it was cold and it fired fine, heated up and no fault.
Today I took it out a run and all was fine except the speed was set in KPH due to me checking the main power fuse and the HM quickshifter is not working anymore. I didn't have time to look at it too much but it is getting power ok.
Now I don't know if the fault was-
a) water somewhere it shouldn't be
b) the petrol
c) something else
At the moment I need to fix the quickshifter and I will maybe have a look for FI faults with a paper clip.
My 2010 GSXR1000 was up for mot and the weather was ok, I set of and the weather got bad, sleet and snow!!!! Got to test center, passed, nearly home again and the fuel light came on, filled up, got home which is only 2 miles away. Rinsed the bike off and washed it. I started it up while drying it out and after 5 mins it stalled! Now this bike is treated like a baby and has never had a problem. Anyway, I restarted it only for it to stall again, tried to start it again and it came up with FI fault. I carried on drying it and put it away slightly concerned. I lifted the tank and checked for water anywhere but could see none, checked all the fuses and connections. A few hours later I went out and tried to start it when it was cold and it fired fine, heated up and no fault.
Today I took it out a run and all was fine except the speed was set in KPH due to me checking the main power fuse and the HM quickshifter is not working anymore. I didn't have time to look at it too much but it is getting power ok.
Now I don't know if the fault was-
a) water somewhere it shouldn't be
b) the petrol
c) something else
At the moment I need to fix the quickshifter and I will maybe have a look for FI faults with a paper clip.
Did you download a copy of the manual I linked to in my previous post?
It has a specific fault diagnosis page for each fault code. it will show/tell you where to measure/check for voltage/resistance etc in the necessary circuits. You need a multi-meter. Check the fuses as a very basic first step. It could be a fault within the pump or its associated wiring.
Without getting the tank up and getting in there we can't tell you where the fault lies. Its only guesswork without doing some investigation.
It has a specific fault diagnosis page for each fault code. it will show/tell you where to measure/check for voltage/resistance etc in the necessary circuits. You need a multi-meter. Check the fuses as a very basic first step. It could be a fault within the pump or its associated wiring.
Without getting the tank up and getting in there we can't tell you where the fault lies. Its only guesswork without doing some investigation.
I have downloaded it, thanks for that. I have been out to it again and the F1 code has gone now and it sounds like the pump is working. I have a multimeter but to be really honest I'm not that sure how to use it and what to switch it to. I can hear the relay click when I put the ignition on and it sounds like the pump is working too but I'm not totally sure how to check these things.
Sounds like it is working? So it now runs ok?
If it runs then play with the wiring and connector blocks while it is runnning, see if you can reproduce the fault. You may have a dodgy/loose connection or a corroded one.
If you've got an intermittent issue then you need to chase the fault while it won't start. Multimeter is easy, find a mate to you help or watch some youtube videos.
If you live in Lincolnshire I'll come and fix it!....
If it runs then play with the wiring and connector blocks while it is runnning, see if you can reproduce the fault. You may have a dodgy/loose connection or a corroded one.
If you've got an intermittent issue then you need to chase the fault while it won't start. Multimeter is easy, find a mate to you help or watch some youtube videos.
If you live in Lincolnshire I'll come and fix it!....
Yeh its running now with no codes showing. Just unplugged the relay to check the connections and there is no sign of corrosion or heat damage on it. I will start it up again tomorrow and start wiggling wires. I am near Glasgow unfortunately or I would have definitely taken you up on the offer mate, thanks for the help so far.
I started mine on the stand today in the 10 mins I had free and ran it through the gears and the quickshifter seems to be ok now though I won't know for sure until I get it out on the road again.
I have concluded that water must have got in to the quickshifter cutting the ignition circuit and now it's dried it so all's normal again. The weather was foul on Saturday.....................snow, come on it's April!
I think I'll put some silicon around the load sensor for the quickshifter.
I have concluded that water must have got in to the quickshifter cutting the ignition circuit and now it's dried it so all's normal again. The weather was foul on Saturday.....................snow, come on it's April!
I think I'll put some silicon around the load sensor for the quickshifter.
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