Discussion
Check the Sprag Clutch. If the bike releases whilst turning over, it's on its way out. Engine out job. Expensive. Should crank cleanly until it starts. Might not run well for a moment and need a little throttle to settle but if the starter isn't catching or releases as the bike tries to fire, the Sprag Clutch is poked.
Check 2nd to 3rd to 4th gear selection. Should never jump out or false neutral. If it does, gear dogs are going. Common on the 1198
Clutch basket. If you can see it (or remove the cover) look to see if the clutch plates are eating into the basket faces. If they are, the clutch is on it's way and will need a new basket. Replace with a 48T rather than the standard 12 for better longevity and clutch action.
Head Stock Nut. Should be torqued so that the groove is at 10/11 and 4/5 o'clock
Check for faults on the dash, yellow light lit. Check charging voltage on the das as well.
other than that, usual suspects such as bearings and fittings.
Check the exhausts for cracks around the lambda probes (pull the belly pan)
Condition of sprocket carrier & sprocket. Check for wear. Also check for the correct chain tension. Should seem a bit loose on an 1198 but if not correct can damage the output shaft.
On a Duc the general appearance will tell you lots. Service history is key especially belt history.
Otherwise usual rules apply. Check for oil leaks, fork seals etc. Check brakes are not grabby and discs are not marked/scored. Clutch should have a healthy rattle when you pull the lever in and shouldn't be grabby or abrupt on release. They're not Japanese/BMW/KTM silky smooth but you'll know if it feels right. Also check fluids for colour. Clutch fluid discolours very quickly and ideally should look like brake fluid. rarely does and will probably look a black as night.
Check the rear suspension system for rocker play. Check the link rod and shock mounts as well as the main top rocker lever. No play at all!!
On the road, be prepared, they're a bit of a handful and prone to wheelying for the fun of it. Hard bikes to ride fast on the road, the torque is immense and kind of overwhelms the bike in the lower gears.
Check 2nd to 3rd to 4th gear selection. Should never jump out or false neutral. If it does, gear dogs are going. Common on the 1198
Clutch basket. If you can see it (or remove the cover) look to see if the clutch plates are eating into the basket faces. If they are, the clutch is on it's way and will need a new basket. Replace with a 48T rather than the standard 12 for better longevity and clutch action.
Head Stock Nut. Should be torqued so that the groove is at 10/11 and 4/5 o'clock
Check for faults on the dash, yellow light lit. Check charging voltage on the das as well.
other than that, usual suspects such as bearings and fittings.
Check the exhausts for cracks around the lambda probes (pull the belly pan)
Condition of sprocket carrier & sprocket. Check for wear. Also check for the correct chain tension. Should seem a bit loose on an 1198 but if not correct can damage the output shaft.
On a Duc the general appearance will tell you lots. Service history is key especially belt history.
Otherwise usual rules apply. Check for oil leaks, fork seals etc. Check brakes are not grabby and discs are not marked/scored. Clutch should have a healthy rattle when you pull the lever in and shouldn't be grabby or abrupt on release. They're not Japanese/BMW/KTM silky smooth but you'll know if it feels right. Also check fluids for colour. Clutch fluid discolours very quickly and ideally should look like brake fluid. rarely does and will probably look a black as night.
Check the rear suspension system for rocker play. Check the link rod and shock mounts as well as the main top rocker lever. No play at all!!
On the road, be prepared, they're a bit of a handful and prone to wheelying for the fun of it. Hard bikes to ride fast on the road, the torque is immense and kind of overwhelms the bike in the lower gears.
Edited by Steve Bass on Friday 18th August 13:18
Final paragraph from Steve is spot on.
On twisty roads, less than a ton where you'd be in second on the average Jap 1000, third and fourth gear on the 1198 makes for a less frantic and more controllable ride but still makes for rapid progress.
I found keeping them between 3000 and 8000 rpm ideal.
The clutch basket fell off the end of the shaft before first service (took dealer a week to pinpoint problem after bleeding system and then ordering a new master cylinder!).
Only other issue was the (early and archaic) TC system - as said, the bike wheelies for fun bit the TC would cut in as soon as the front landed and made for 'interesting' times - nearly being shot over the bars at considerable speed in 4th focuses the mind.
Never got the issue sorted so rode with TC off till I went back to inline 4s.
And go for the S - lovely ohlins and a logging gimmick you'll never use
On twisty roads, less than a ton where you'd be in second on the average Jap 1000, third and fourth gear on the 1198 makes for a less frantic and more controllable ride but still makes for rapid progress.
I found keeping them between 3000 and 8000 rpm ideal.
The clutch basket fell off the end of the shaft before first service (took dealer a week to pinpoint problem after bleeding system and then ordering a new master cylinder!).
Only other issue was the (early and archaic) TC system - as said, the bike wheelies for fun bit the TC would cut in as soon as the front landed and made for 'interesting' times - nearly being shot over the bars at considerable speed in 4th focuses the mind.
Never got the issue sorted so rode with TC off till I went back to inline 4s.
And go for the S - lovely ohlins and a logging gimmick you'll never use
legzr1 said:
Final paragraph from Steve is spot on.
On twisty roads, less than a ton where you'd be in second on the average Jap 1000, third and fourth gear on the 1198 makes for a less frantic and more controllable ride but still makes for rapid progress.
I found keeping them between 3000 and 8000 rpm ideal.
The clutch basket fell off the end of the shaft before first service (took dealer a week to pinpoint problem after bleeding system and then ordering a new master cylinder!).
Only other issue was the (early and archaic) TC system - as said, the bike wheelies for fun bit the TC would cut in as soon as the front landed and made for 'interesting' times - nearly being shot over the bars at considerable speed in 4th focuses the mind.
Never got the issue sorted so rode with TC off till I went back to inline 4s.
And go for the S - lovely ohlins and a logging gimmick you'll never use
The TC is calibrated to a particular tyre. Change of brand and the TC can get its knickers in a twist. On twisty roads, less than a ton where you'd be in second on the average Jap 1000, third and fourth gear on the 1198 makes for a less frantic and more controllable ride but still makes for rapid progress.
I found keeping them between 3000 and 8000 rpm ideal.
The clutch basket fell off the end of the shaft before first service (took dealer a week to pinpoint problem after bleeding system and then ordering a new master cylinder!).
Only other issue was the (early and archaic) TC system - as said, the bike wheelies for fun bit the TC would cut in as soon as the front landed and made for 'interesting' times - nearly being shot over the bars at considerable speed in 4th focuses the mind.
Never got the issue sorted so rode with TC off till I went back to inline 4s.
And go for the S - lovely ohlins and a logging gimmick you'll never use
There's a TC Pod available that modifies the signal and effectively recalibrate the TC. From the same people who supply the Nemesis TC System.
And resist the urge to fit a smaller front sprocket. It messes up the rear chain geometry and it'll wheelie everywhere as the engine hits 5k Sounds fun for the first week.
Then you realise it's faster with bigger sprockets
Steve Bass said:
And resist the urge to fit a smaller front sprocket. It messes up the rear chain geometry and it'll wheelie everywhere as the engine hits 5k Sounds fun for the first week.
Then you realise it's faster with bigger sprockets
My new R1 is like that. The MT10 needs a bigger One on the front as its impossible to not wheelie it.Then you realise it's faster with bigger sprockets
1198's are indeed a great wheelie bike, they're up there with the best of them.
Steve Bass said:
The TC is calibrated to a particular tyre. Change of brand and the TC can get its knickers in a twist.
There's a TC Pod available that modifies the signal and effectively recalibrate the TC. From the same people who supply the Nemesis TC System.
And resist the urge to fit a smaller front sprocket. It messes up the rear chain geometry and it'll wheelie everywhere as the engine hits 5k Sounds fun for the first week.
Then you realise it's faster with bigger sprockets
This happened on mine from first service onwards all on either OE tyres or identical SCPs - definitely a fault in the system.There's a TC Pod available that modifies the signal and effectively recalibrate the TC. From the same people who supply the Nemesis TC System.
And resist the urge to fit a smaller front sprocket. It messes up the rear chain geometry and it'll wheelie everywhere as the engine hits 5k Sounds fun for the first week.
Then you realise it's faster with bigger sprockets
Little niggles aside, still great bikes.
Slight change of plan resulted in us coming home (from somewhere different) with a black 1098S in the end.
Appears to be a good straight bike with good documentation and money spent on a clutch and chain & sprockets in the last 12 months. Needs the belts doing (no sign of thee being done since 2010) but other than that, she'll hopefully be a good'n!!
Appears to be a good straight bike with good documentation and money spent on a clutch and chain & sprockets in the last 12 months. Needs the belts doing (no sign of thee being done since 2010) but other than that, she'll hopefully be a good'n!!
roboxm3 said:
Slight change of plan resulted in us coming home (from somewhere different) with a black 1098S in the end.
Appears to be a good straight bike with good documentation and money spent on a clutch and chain & sprockets in the last 12 months. Needs the belts doing (no sign of thee being done since 2010) but other than that, she'll hopefully be a good'n!!
Congrats! I think the 1098s is a sweeter bike than the standard 1198/1198s. If you wanted 1198cc, the 1098R is the one to get. Appears to be a good straight bike with good documentation and money spent on a clutch and chain & sprockets in the last 12 months. Needs the belts doing (no sign of thee being done since 2010) but other than that, she'll hopefully be a good'n!!
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