Rolling road for 4XV R1 set up

[MotorsportTom]

Hi all,

After some advice or recommendations for doing a set up on a rolling road for my R1.

I'm not chasing numbers or seeing how many horsepower it has, purely want to see I can get the best ride ability. It's been off the road for nearly 7 months now after a crash but clearly remember pre-crash there would be hesitations and an inability to pick up the throttle smoothly from low throttle openings and low revs.

So my question is, is there any recommendations for a rolling road centre that will happily play with carbs in my area? I live in South Somerset but close to both the Dorset and Wiltshire borders so happy to travel up to 50 miles if there is someone really good and I have access to a van.

P.s. I am planning to remove, clean and re-fit the ex-up valve even though both bolts are rusty and may need serious persuasion to come undone before any rolling road work.

And seeing as everybody loves pictures the bike in quesiton

[xeny]

As it looks all stock, I'd start with either some fuel system cleaner or a carb strip/clean - I've done a fair few miles on the very similar 5jj year 2000 model, some of them after it had been standing for a few years.

When the carbs are clean, no glitches, when they're clogged, loads of dips and bumps in power delivery.

[MotorsportTom]

I was planning to give them a clean and a balance before hand... maybe I'll ride it first after doing it and report back.

I have fitted a micron can but whether that will have affected anything I don't know.

[TwoStrokeNut]

xeny said:

As it looks all stock, I'd start with either some fuel system cleaner or a carb strip/clean - I've done a fair few miles on the very similar 5jj year 2000 model, some of them after it had been standing for a few years.

When the carbs are clean, no glitches, when they're clogged, loads of dips and bumps in power delivery.

Yep. I've got a stock 4XV and it's really crisp with no glitches everywhere. If it's stock other than the can, i would start with the carbs before hitting the dyno and changing anything from stock.

[Biker's Nemesis]

If it's standard I would check the standard carbs for splits in the diagrams, also check the standard needles to make sure they are not worn.

Looks a nice non standard bike.

I like standard bikes.

[graeme4130]

Probably the nearest place to you I can think of is JHS racing in Bristol

[MotorsportTom]

Biker's Nemesis said:

If it's standard I would check the standard carbs for splits in the diagrams, also check the standard needles to make sure they are not worn.

Looks a nice non standard bike.

I like standard bikes.

Cheers BN

It's not standard any more.

The colour is the orange in the photos and now has a period Micron can, Harris rearsets and an Ohlins steering damper. So I like to think of it as OEM+ rather than rammed with bling.

I'll definitely have the carbs apart then if they are prone to wearing needles, I hadn't given a thought to split diaphragms either

[MotorsportTom]

graeme4130 said:

Probably the nearest place to you I can think of is JHS racing in Bristol

Cheers Graham, I did come across those guys but had a colleague who worked there previously and didn't exactly sing their praises so was hesitant hence asking for recommendations here.

Have you used them before? Or know anyone who has?

[moto_traxport]

You could try putting a bit more diesel in the van and sending to PDQ in Slough. I live in Somerset now and that's where my 4XV R1's still go. Rob the dyno chap is well versed in taking ancient carbs apart, getting them working correctly and only fitting what is required.

What's going on with that extra bit of bodywork on the frame? Is it just to carry the logo or is it trying to act as air scoop?

[moto_traxport]

Biker's Nemesis said:

If it's standard I would check the standard carbs for splits in the diagrams, also check the standard needles to make sure they are not worn.

Looks a nice non standard bike.

I like standard bikes.

Is this your stock answer?

[Biker's Nemesis]

moto_traxport said:

Is this your stock answer?

[MotorsportTom]

moto_traxport said:

You could try putting a bit more diesel in the van and sending to PDQ in Slough. I live in Somerset now and that's where my 4XV R1's still go. Rob the dyno chap is well versed in taking ancient carbs apart, getting them working correctly and only fitting what is required.

What's going on with that extra bit of bodywork on the frame? Is it just to carry the logo or is it trying to act as air scoop?

I'll certainly bare it in mind with regard to PDQ, especially if after the EXUP clean up and a carb balance/clean/check doesn't go as expected.

It's just for show I think, or rather was. When I crashed it I ditched them because they are ste, I'm not a fan of clutter on a bike.

[graeme4130]

MotorsportTom said:

graeme4130 said:

Probably the nearest place to you I can think of is JHS racing in Bristol

Cheers Graham, I did come across those guys but had a colleague who worked there previously and didn't exactly sing their praises so was hesitant hence asking for recommendations here.

Have you used them before? Or know anyone who has?

I've never used them personally as they've always been booked up whenever I've needed some urgent work doing, but I've never heard bad things against them.
I use MSS in Colchester to look after my bikes generally, but they're a 4hour drive from me in the van, so that's a day out to get my bikes there and another to get them back. They're very good though, and worth the trip

[MotorsportTom]

graeme4130 said:

I've never used them personally as they've always been booked up whenever I've needed some urgent work doing, but I've never heard bad things against them.
I use MSS in Colchester to look after my bikes generally, but they're a 4hour drive from me in the van, so that's a day out to get my bikes there and another to get them back. They're very good though, and worth the trip

Cheers for the info, MSS is about 3.5-4 hours from me too so I'm not immediately keen but also prefer good service...

I'm not in any major rush so I'll keep digging to see what I find.

[MotorsportTom]

Had the carbs apart tonight.

Diaphragms are all good, all jets are clear and clean and there looks to be minimal wear on the needles.
Can any one comment on the look of the needles? It's really hard to photograph but hopefully you can see small areas of differing colour material (wear) just down from where the needle begins yo protude.

I've measure it with a digi vernier to gauge roundness roughly and maximum I can get is 0.02mm difference. Would 20 microns really make much difference?

Planning to put them back on and balance them in a couple of weeks if it's all good

[catso]

I had a bike custom mapped on the dyno by Tim Blakemore; http://www.timblakemoreracing.co.uk/bristol_dyno_c... was with a Power Commander so I can't comment on carbs but he did a good job for me and knows his stuff.

[MotorsportTom]

Cheers Catso! Didn't come across those guys before so will give them a call and see what they say

[catso]

MotorsportTom said:

Cheers Catso! Didn't come across those guys before so will give them a call and see what they say

The man builds, tunes and races Kawasaki drag bikes, and also Harley Davidsons for his Mrs (apparently one needs a ballistic vest when riding a drag Harley, in case it blows the head off into your body ) he certainly knows how to get the best out of a bike.

But I'm sure he can do 'moderate' tuning as well...

[orangefzr]

Nice bike mate
What can happen also is wear on the tops of the emulsion tubes where the needles sit and they can wear slightly oval causing more issues on tickover than anything else (uneven idle) also you need to remember that no amount of adjustment to carbs can compensate for a worn engine ? Have the shims been checked ?
Also I run a fzr600r and the biggest ball ache I experience is the massive variations on fuel quality these days, I have had massive issues with standard unleaded as they now add ethanol to it, the problem with ethanol is it is hydroscopic (attracts water) and also doesn't like being left in the tank for any great length of time.
I have had melted fuel filters, and rotted fuel lines, making me now run reinforced fuel injection hose.
What I ended up doing to mine was remove the fuel pump from the inside of the tank and dumping all the fuel from the tank, the amount of rust dust, water,and other foreign crap from it was quite surprising, then letting it dry out before filling with super unleaded religiously ever after that because most super does not have ethanol in it, but apparently they're going to start putting it in that as well.
A local bike mechanic swears by using fuel injector cleaner from time to time as the holes in injectors are way finer than any carb jets

Edited by orangefzr on Thursday 15th February 22:30

Edited by orangefzr on Thursday 15th February 22:49

[MotorsportTom]

catso said:

The man builds, tunes and races Kawasaki drag bikes, and also Harley Davidsons for his Mrs (apparently one needs a ballistic vest when riding a drag Harley, in case it blows the head off into your body ) he certainly knows how to get the best out of a bike.

But I'm sure he can do 'moderate' tuning as well...

Haha awesome! You are making me want to take it there just to have a look at some bonkers bikes!

Cheers Orangefzr! I didn't actually have the emulsion tubes out and the issue is on lower throttle and from memory (haven't ridden the damn bike for nearly 9 months now) around 3k rpm.

I know about the ethanol in fuel, I used to work in a garden machinery shop that kept banging on about it and even brought in a product from the states to combat it.