A question for BN and other new R1 owners..
Discussion
If I may...
I’m looking at changing to a R1 for 99% track use but it’ll be probably ridden to the circuit so to a degree will have to remain road legal. So I’m thinking of race bodywork and the having a quick release system for a number plate bracket etc.
But my question to you and anyone else who can help is: what musts are there for an R1 to be track ready? Any upgrades that really need to be done? Any recommendations on crash protection?
I’m looking at a pre-owned R1M or a new R1 (with he blipper) for similar ish money. Any advantage over one or the other on track?
The main thing I want is both quickshift and blipper. I’ve gotten used to it my S1000 and think I’d struggle going back to clutch shifting down the gearbox. I’m not the fastest on track, but happy with the pace I’m at while learning so don’t want to knock what I’m used to if that makes sense.
I’m looking at changing to a R1 for 99% track use but it’ll be probably ridden to the circuit so to a degree will have to remain road legal. So I’m thinking of race bodywork and the having a quick release system for a number plate bracket etc.
But my question to you and anyone else who can help is: what musts are there for an R1 to be track ready? Any upgrades that really need to be done? Any recommendations on crash protection?
I’m looking at a pre-owned R1M or a new R1 (with he blipper) for similar ish money. Any advantage over one or the other on track?
The main thing I want is both quickshift and blipper. I’ve gotten used to it my S1000 and think I’d struggle going back to clutch shifting down the gearbox. I’m not the fastest on track, but happy with the pace I’m at while learning so don’t want to knock what I’m used to if that makes sense.
My R1M is used exclusively on the road. It has everything you’d need for track on it already and no point adding stuff unless you’re at the very top of your game and winning races. The only thing it doesn’t have is an autoblipper as standard, although I think the 2018model does.
I’ve also run an S1000RR on track for the last 6 years and upgraded this year to a 2016 model. That has the autoblipper and again has everything you’d need unless you’re winning races.
Modern litre bikes are built for the track. The only thing I’d add is crash protection on all casings.
I’ve also run an S1000RR on track for the last 6 years and upgraded this year to a 2016 model. That has the autoblipper and again has everything you’d need unless you’re winning races.
Modern litre bikes are built for the track. The only thing I’d add is crash protection on all casings.
The R1M was bought for road use, the S1000RR wasn’t far off price wise, but is built for track (Alistair Seeley’s SS1000 bike from the NW200 direct from the race team).
The R1 doesn’t really make a lot of sense on the road as it’s too uncomfortable being ridden slowly, but is mega when ridden fast, the faster the better. The S1000RR does it all. I race endurance and think the S1000RR is better suited to that, but the R1 is currently the racebike to have in the paddock.
The R1 doesn’t really make a lot of sense on the road as it’s too uncomfortable being ridden slowly, but is mega when ridden fast, the faster the better. The S1000RR does it all. I race endurance and think the S1000RR is better suited to that, but the R1 is currently the racebike to have in the paddock.
UnluckyTimmeh said:
Interesting. Thanks for your advice 
Anything other than case protectors you’ve done to your R1?
I haven’t fitted them, I was just saying if you’re going on track then I’d fit them. I’ve got them on my S1000RR but that’s a racing requirement. My R1M is completely standard and whilst I don’t think it’s as well finished as the HP4 it’s still a fantastic bike. Levers and pegs being the same as the standard R1is a bit disappointing, but they do the job well enough. Anything other than case protectors you’ve done to your R1?
I’ve ridden both the RR and the R1 and both felt ok, I’m just wondering if you find one smaller/more compact than the other?I’m just short of 6 foot, weigh a lot more than I should (16 stone), although it’s not all fat on my belly (just most of it).
I find them both pretty comfortable, but I ride correctly on track using my body a lot and do similar on the road. I despise people complaining about wrist ache on sportsbikes when they ride with locked arms etc.
I find them both pretty comfortable, but I ride correctly on track using my body a lot and do similar on the road. I despise people complaining about wrist ache on sportsbikes when they ride with locked arms etc.
I'm 6ft 4" and a shade under 15 stone.
My bike has.
Track bodywork with the back light fitted
Frame and swing arm carbon protectors
Harris adjustable bars
Rear sets
De Cat and link pipe
Little Black box the plugs into the ABS unit to disable the ABS
EBC GPFAX brake pads
Forks pushed right through the yokes
Sag set front and rear
Ohlins steering damper has just been ordered for it
My bike has.
Track bodywork with the back light fitted
Frame and swing arm carbon protectors
Harris adjustable bars
Rear sets
De Cat and link pipe
Little Black box the plugs into the ABS unit to disable the ABS
EBC GPFAX brake pads
Forks pushed right through the yokes
Sag set front and rear
Ohlins steering damper has just been ordered for it
Biker's Nemesis said:
legzr1 said:
Those pads any use for the road BN?
I might have mentioned my dislike of the standard pads a few times...
I didn't do many miles with them on the road Steve but they felt OKI might have mentioned my dislike of the standard pads a few times...
Biker's Nemesis said:
Gavia said:
Is anyone?
You're not slow, I'm just taking the piss.Steve, I have used the normal EBC HH's on the road for donkey's years and they're good in my humble opinion.
I just think that. A lot of track biased pads are useless on the road as they need to be hot to really work and road pads don’t get used often or hard enough to get the heat into them. Having said that I’m still using up those brembos form Simon on the HP4from years ago. I’m still on the first set as I don’t really use the brakes much on the road.
Edited by Gavia on Monday 11th June 22:40
I’ve got a 2015 (no idea if different to the later revisions) and I run the GPFAX pads on the road along with a Brembo RCS19 m/c. I find them to be excellent and don’t struggle with any noticeable warm up period.
With regard to mods, I’ve fitted an Akra with decat pipe (too loud to be honest and I’m looking at ways to reduce it), FTEcu bike-side flash kit with ActiveTune, plus rearsets (purely for cosmetics as the OE ones are a bit cheap looking). The FTecu kit smooths out the on/off throttle response which, on mine at least, was s
t as standard. It’s still not great but it’s more bearable than it was.
With regard to mods, I’ve fitted an Akra with decat pipe (too loud to be honest and I’m looking at ways to reduce it), FTEcu bike-side flash kit with ActiveTune, plus rearsets (purely for cosmetics as the OE ones are a bit cheap looking). The FTecu kit smooths out the on/off throttle response which, on mine at least, was s
t as standard. It’s still not great but it’s more bearable than it was. The standard r1 is such a good track bike out the box, that like said above, you just want to put some sliders and engine protection on it and you’re good to go
I’ve done hundreds of laps on a completely standard r1’s And r1m’s on rosso3 road tyres, and it’s a massively capable bike out the box
Unless you’re looking at going racing, I’d leave it as standard and save yourself the prep pennies
FWIW, I’d take a new 18 R1 over a used previous years r1m
I’ve done hundreds of laps on a completely standard r1’s And r1m’s on rosso3 road tyres, and it’s a massively capable bike out the box
Unless you’re looking at going racing, I’d leave it as standard and save yourself the prep pennies
FWIW, I’d take a new 18 R1 over a used previous years r1m
Gassing Station | Biker Banter | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff