Honda Deauville 650 no-go.
Discussion
A friend is selling his bike, he's had no luck at all with it and is ready to scrap it after much expense and stress. Will not start.
60,000 miles just under, early UK model. £500 he wants as is.
Was running until laid up for a year or so but fresh fuel, new battery and regulator rectifier has not sorted the problem. Battery was in poor state, looked like it had overheated hence the new parts. But no luck still.
2 questions, are these bikes any good and secondly any thoughts on why it won't start, even though it turns and there is a spark at the front plug at least, i didn't manage to get to the rear one when i had a quick look for him.
The bodywork looks good and it's generally tidy.
60,000 miles just under, early UK model. £500 he wants as is.
Was running until laid up for a year or so but fresh fuel, new battery and regulator rectifier has not sorted the problem. Battery was in poor state, looked like it had overheated hence the new parts. But no luck still.
2 questions, are these bikes any good and secondly any thoughts on why it won't start, even though it turns and there is a spark at the front plug at least, i didn't manage to get to the rear one when i had a quick look for him.
The bodywork looks good and it's generally tidy.
Yes, they are very good.
Fuel pump can be a weakness, it's possible to bypass it as a diagnostic measure providing you have more than just reserve in the tank. Incidentally there are two plugs per cylinder, it will run on one but it's a bit reluctant to start, so it might be worth checking the plug leads.
Fuel pump can be a weakness, it's possible to bypass it as a diagnostic measure providing you have more than just reserve in the tank. Incidentally there are two plugs per cylinder, it will run on one but it's a bit reluctant to start, so it might be worth checking the plug leads.
Edited by Dr Jekyll on Wednesday 19th June 08:40
Along with a few other vehcles, I've had one of these for a few years now, so heres my opinion.
If I dont start mine for a couple of weeks, then it does prove almost impossible to start. I did originally think that fitting the larger battery from later models would solve the problem, but it didnt. The usual trick I do now is to jump it from a 100A car battery I have. Normally, it starts quickly that way. Once its running, it will always start first time the day after.
As a bike, they are good. Not great, just good. They are good for commuting, and the occasional Sunday afternoon trip out. I've even used mine for the odd trip out of the country.
They do have problems though, As was stated above, the fuel pump packs in on a regular basis. It is only used though to get the reserve supply out of the tank. Keep on the main tank, and problem solved. Even so, I do always carry the pipes needed for a bypass in the fairing. The clutch on mine is noisy after its been standing, but that goes away when its warm and used daily. Neutral can sometimes be difficult to find, especially at Toll Booths!
I've still got the original screen on mine, but plenty fit the higher one. Not to be recommended if a passenger is often carried, due to it causing turbulence.
If I dont start mine for a couple of weeks, then it does prove almost impossible to start. I did originally think that fitting the larger battery from later models would solve the problem, but it didnt. The usual trick I do now is to jump it from a 100A car battery I have. Normally, it starts quickly that way. Once its running, it will always start first time the day after.
As a bike, they are good. Not great, just good. They are good for commuting, and the occasional Sunday afternoon trip out. I've even used mine for the odd trip out of the country.
They do have problems though, As was stated above, the fuel pump packs in on a regular basis. It is only used though to get the reserve supply out of the tank. Keep on the main tank, and problem solved. Even so, I do always carry the pipes needed for a bypass in the fairing. The clutch on mine is noisy after its been standing, but that goes away when its warm and used daily. Neutral can sometimes be difficult to find, especially at Toll Booths!
I've still got the original screen on mine, but plenty fit the higher one. Not to be recommended if a passenger is often carried, due to it causing turbulence.
There are conflicting reports about the fuel pump. Some reckon the ‘OK until you hit reserve’ is what happens after you’ve bypassed a faulty pump, and that if the pump isn’t bypassed then it has to work or it won’t run at all, and this was my experience. Another possible issue is a relay that’s supposed to cut the fuel off in the event of the bike falling over, apparently it’s somewhere in the rear cowling but can be bypassed easily enough once you’ve got to it.
Riders with the higher screen reckon it can actually be noisier than the lower one. Mine has the lower one and it’s actually better than the screen on my 1200GS. The seat is also more comfortable than the BMW one. The built in panniers are a bit of a joke, very small and the cable operated locks wear to the point that’s it’s very difficult to lock and unlock them. The headlamp is rubbish, a brighter bulb helps a bit but it’s the perspex in front of it that’s the big problem. Cooling can be a bit temperamental, what with stones getting stuck in the fan, blown fuses and a rather dubious earthing mechanism. Rectifiers can blow up as on many bikes, replacements are available with a bigger heat sink and are easy to fit, this and the fuel pump are the only things that can really leave you stuck. Change the oil and filter every 4,000 miles, plugs and air filter ever 8 or 10. Coolant and rear hub oil every year or so. Check the valves (big job getting to them, easy to check and adjust) every 20,000 or so, on a bike that’s already got 50,000+ they will rarely if ever need adjusting.
It should last well over 100,000 miles. Maintenance is very easy in the sense of no skill required, but a bit tedious because of the fairing panels that need removing.
Mine only sees a dealer for brake fluid changes.
Riders with the higher screen reckon it can actually be noisier than the lower one. Mine has the lower one and it’s actually better than the screen on my 1200GS. The seat is also more comfortable than the BMW one. The built in panniers are a bit of a joke, very small and the cable operated locks wear to the point that’s it’s very difficult to lock and unlock them. The headlamp is rubbish, a brighter bulb helps a bit but it’s the perspex in front of it that’s the big problem. Cooling can be a bit temperamental, what with stones getting stuck in the fan, blown fuses and a rather dubious earthing mechanism. Rectifiers can blow up as on many bikes, replacements are available with a bigger heat sink and are easy to fit, this and the fuel pump are the only things that can really leave you stuck. Change the oil and filter every 4,000 miles, plugs and air filter ever 8 or 10. Coolant and rear hub oil every year or so. Check the valves (big job getting to them, easy to check and adjust) every 20,000 or so, on a bike that’s already got 50,000+ they will rarely if ever need adjusting.
It should last well over 100,000 miles. Maintenance is very easy in the sense of no skill required, but a bit tedious because of the fairing panels that need removing.
Mine only sees a dealer for brake fluid changes.
DR Jekyll : you do / know all that yet you allow a "dealer" to mess with your brakes , get yourself a cheap bleeder or indeed a better vac pump type tool and you can change your fluid in no time and at least you will know its been done !
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vizibleed-One-Man-Brake...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vizibleed-One-Man-Brake...
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