Help diagnose my engine issue??
Discussion
Can anyone help diagnose this issue I have with my 2006 R6?
I’ve had the bike from new - its on 47k miles. Used daily.
For the last couple of months its been running badly when cold. Its fine when warm.
It starts from cold ok but the idle is rough and below 4k revs sounds a bit like its running on 3 cylinders. Above 4k it’s OK. I did a test of spraying water on the downpipes when started and idling from cold to see if a cylinder wasn’t firing properly but all downpipes got equally hot.
When setting off from cold, the engine dies when coming to junctions etc unless you keep blipping the throttle.
Once its warmed up its fine.
I’ve recently given it a service including oil + filter, air filter and spark plugs.
The valve clearances have never been checked - but everything I read on that suggests they tighten up on these bikes which begins to cause running issues which get worse when warm which is the reverse of this.
Any ideas on anything I can try to eliminate things or any other ideas? A coil on way out maybe? Injector issue? A temp sensor or something perhaps?
I’ve had the bike from new - its on 47k miles. Used daily.
For the last couple of months its been running badly when cold. Its fine when warm.
It starts from cold ok but the idle is rough and below 4k revs sounds a bit like its running on 3 cylinders. Above 4k it’s OK. I did a test of spraying water on the downpipes when started and idling from cold to see if a cylinder wasn’t firing properly but all downpipes got equally hot.
When setting off from cold, the engine dies when coming to junctions etc unless you keep blipping the throttle.
Once its warmed up its fine.
I’ve recently given it a service including oil + filter, air filter and spark plugs.
The valve clearances have never been checked - but everything I read on that suggests they tighten up on these bikes which begins to cause running issues which get worse when warm which is the reverse of this.
Any ideas on anything I can try to eliminate things or any other ideas? A coil on way out maybe? Injector issue? A temp sensor or something perhaps?
moanthebairns said:
Did you change the leads? I've had similar, but it was never the plugs it was the leads or a failing ignition coil. Could it be when you've removed the coil you've damaged the HT lead. I've done this in the past, particularly if its been a b
h to get out.
He says its fine when warm and also above 4k when cold though. Don't dodgy leads normally seem worse with more revs and heat?h to get out. trickywoo said:
moanthebairns said:
Did you change the leads? I've had similar, but it was never the plugs it was the leads or a failing ignition coil. Could it be when you've removed the coil you've damaged the HT lead. I've done this in the past, particularly if its been a bh to get out.
He says its fine when warm and also above 4k when cold though. Don't dodgy leads normally seem worse with more revs and heat?h to get out. moanthebairns said:
trickywoo said:
moanthebairns said:
Did you change the leads? I've had similar, but it was never the plugs it was the leads or a failing ignition coil. Could it be when you've removed the coil you've damaged the HT lead. I've done this in the past, particularly if its been a bh to get out.
He says its fine when warm and also above 4k when cold though. Don't dodgy leads normally seem worse with more revs and heat?h to get out. The symptoms started without me doing anything to the bike so I don't think I disturbed or broke anything as such.
I've googled the symptoms quite a lot and drawing a blank so far.
Check the clearances anyway, it should be done, and a valve not seating quite completly (especially an exhaust valve) could get expensive.
The thottle bodies will need synchronising at periodic intervals, usually following a valve inspection / adjustment.
FWIW my 2008 FZ1 needed valves re-shimmed to correct the clearances at 24,000 miles. The engine was running fine save a little hunting at idle / constant throttle, but the valves clearances were all over the place. Ran much, much better after.
The thottle bodies will need synchronising at periodic intervals, usually following a valve inspection / adjustment.
FWIW my 2008 FZ1 needed valves re-shimmed to correct the clearances at 24,000 miles. The engine was running fine save a little hunting at idle / constant throttle, but the valves clearances were all over the place. Ran much, much better after.
SteveSunbeam said:
The valve clearances have never been checked - but everything I read on that suggests they tighten up on these bikes which begins to cause running issues which get worse when warm which is the reverse of this.
My experience on every other bike with tight valves is they run crap when cold and get better when hot so definitely worth a look, especially at 47K and they have never been touched. The actual valve inspection is relatively easy and at least you will know.Regardless of anything else, get the valve clearances checked and set properly. 47k is a lot of miles to ignore the top end.
Once that's done, and given it's an FI set up, look at the cold enrichment system. If the engine temp sensor is on it's way out the ECU will misread the engine temp and apply the wrong cold start trim for cold idle. Hence it'll work fine once the engine temp is up and the temp and map now align.
Once that's done, and given it's an FI set up, look at the cold enrichment system. If the engine temp sensor is on it's way out the ECU will misread the engine temp and apply the wrong cold start trim for cold idle. Hence it'll work fine once the engine temp is up and the temp and map now align.
Just in case anyone stumbles across these symptoms doing a search - it was the valve clearances.
Had them done yesterday and its running fine again. All 8 exhaust valves had almost zero clearance, as had 2 inlets.
So, most advice I found (apart from on here - thanks) suggested closed up clearances manifested as running worse when warm when in fact I had the opposite.
Had them done yesterday and its running fine again. All 8 exhaust valves had almost zero clearance, as had 2 inlets.
So, most advice I found (apart from on here - thanks) suggested closed up clearances manifested as running worse when warm when in fact I had the opposite.
SteveSunbeam said:
Just in case anyone stumbles across these symptoms doing a search - it was the valve clearances.
Had them done yesterday and its running fine again. All 8 exhaust valves had almost zero clearance, as had 2 inlets.
So, most advice I found (apart from on here - thanks) suggested closed up clearances manifested as running worse when warm when in fact I had the opposite.
It was the valve clearances all along?Had them done yesterday and its running fine again. All 8 exhaust valves had almost zero clearance, as had 2 inlets.
So, most advice I found (apart from on here - thanks) suggested closed up clearances manifested as running worse when warm when in fact I had the opposite.
No f
king st Sherlock...
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