Hmm, what to do....
Discussion
I have a 2012 BMW R1200RT which I commute on daily. Yes it’s big & heavy (but so am I) but it does a decent job of the commute. I’m comfortable on it, I particularly like the electric screen, but I’m not in love with it; my eyes don’t light up when I get on it. It was written off for (literally) a few scratches about 3 years ago and I bought it back for peanuts, so it doesn’t really owe me that much. Also when I park it on the street in London I don’t worry about it and I don’t need to – it’s already marked, and it’s probably not near the top of the twoccers’ list.
Set against that, it needed a new clutch this year which was about £1400. It will need new tyres soon. And now.....two things.
The suspension has gone fubar; it’s like riding a pogo stick. Has happened fairly quickly, over the space of a few weeks. I’m told it’s probably the rear shock, which I haven’t checked yet. Of course it has ESA, of course those units are not serviceable and of course BMW want way more than the value of the bike (possibly) for a new shock. Wilbers will do an exchange unit with the ESA transferred across for about £550.
It also isn’t running quite right. That may be “just” throttle body balance but may be something else. It hates very slight throttle, and there is sometimes a horrible knock when picking up the power.
It’s also slightly tatty in places – there are a couple of large scabs out of the wheels, and I confess I don’t clean it very often. It’s my workhorse, not my P&J. Mileage is high 30s.
So, I don’t know whether to eBay it for whatever it makes (a good non-written off one at this mileage is worth perhaps £6k, so I dunno, maybe £3500? £4000? ) or to throw some more cash at it. For all sorts of unrelated reasons I’m sort of anticipating my commuting career to need to last another 18 months to 2 years. Maybe if I spent another grand on it, it would see me out. Or do I get something else, and if so what. Mileage is probably c. 10k p.a.
I do want to change my “fun” bikes next year, the main two are the Kettle and the 4XV R1, and I’m looking at some combination of changing one or both of those for a Z900 RS but that wouldn’t be a commuter, not unless it was a nice sunny day and someone offered me indoor secure parking, so that’s out of the question.
I started writing this in order to get you lot’s views on my best bet but now I’ve written it all down I’m erring towards spending the money on the RT. Then again I don’t want it to carry on throwing big bills at me. But I’m all ears. What do you think?
Set against that, it needed a new clutch this year which was about £1400. It will need new tyres soon. And now.....two things.
The suspension has gone fubar; it’s like riding a pogo stick. Has happened fairly quickly, over the space of a few weeks. I’m told it’s probably the rear shock, which I haven’t checked yet. Of course it has ESA, of course those units are not serviceable and of course BMW want way more than the value of the bike (possibly) for a new shock. Wilbers will do an exchange unit with the ESA transferred across for about £550.
It also isn’t running quite right. That may be “just” throttle body balance but may be something else. It hates very slight throttle, and there is sometimes a horrible knock when picking up the power.
It’s also slightly tatty in places – there are a couple of large scabs out of the wheels, and I confess I don’t clean it very often. It’s my workhorse, not my P&J. Mileage is high 30s.
So, I don’t know whether to eBay it for whatever it makes (a good non-written off one at this mileage is worth perhaps £6k, so I dunno, maybe £3500? £4000? ) or to throw some more cash at it. For all sorts of unrelated reasons I’m sort of anticipating my commuting career to need to last another 18 months to 2 years. Maybe if I spent another grand on it, it would see me out. Or do I get something else, and if so what. Mileage is probably c. 10k p.a.
I do want to change my “fun” bikes next year, the main two are the Kettle and the 4XV R1, and I’m looking at some combination of changing one or both of those for a Z900 RS but that wouldn’t be a commuter, not unless it was a nice sunny day and someone offered me indoor secure parking, so that’s out of the question.
I started writing this in order to get you lot’s views on my best bet but now I’ve written it all down I’m erring towards spending the money on the RT. Then again I don’t want it to carry on throwing big bills at me. But I’m all ears. What do you think?
re: the Wilbers ESA. I was very happy with mine on a GS ( front and rear ) and didn't regret it. I always find suspension tails off from 20/22K miles.
For the engine issue, down in London, you could try Jap & German or if Steptoe is still working try contacting him over on the UKGSer forum.
For the engine issue, down in London, you could try Jap & German or if Steptoe is still working try contacting him over on the UKGSer forum.
Edited by boxedin on Monday 11th November 17:48
If you buy another shed it could also have or develop problems. At least you know what is wrong with your bike. In your position I would get the running issue investigated first to see how easy/expensive it is to fix and then make a decision. If only a few hundred then all in it will only cost a thousand (tyres are consumables so I would ignore that cost).
Personally if I were commuting and lazy on cleaning/maintenance (which I am!!) I would be looking at a shaft drive bike so the RT sounds good. Being tatty and less attractive to thieves also a big bonus.
Personally if I were commuting and lazy on cleaning/maintenance (which I am!!) I would be looking at a shaft drive bike so the RT sounds good. Being tatty and less attractive to thieves also a big bonus.
SAS Tom said:
I’d keep the RT. I’d also not swap 2 bikes for 1.
I think that’s where I am with the RT. As for the two, I’ll definitely sell the R1. And I want a Z900. Which makes me think, if I keep the Kettle, it won’t get used much. That was the sell two bikes thought, but not really relative to the RT question, I was just rambling.
Next question - would you carry on using the RT until you can get the shock swapped? Maybe a week or two? It’s pretty shagged, it’s been creeping up on me for a couple of weeks now but it’s now pretty boingy
I’d still use it, as long as you know it’s like that it’ll just feel a bit soft. Given some of the bikes I’ve been to look at many people are unaware their suspension is knackered. I once had a shock let all its oil out on a track day. It felt dodgy but I still set my fastest time that day.
CAPP0 said:
and that was from an indy, not a main dealer. Much as I like the boxers, that's put me off buying another. The bike is completely dismantled, basically ends up being just an engine block and a front wheel. i also would not buy another as great as they are.
Has it always been like that on small throttle openings?
They made it lean for certification as I’m sure you are aware. The difference a fuel spoofer makes is well worth the outlay. The reduced mpg is small but the engine runs so much better. I ride an oil head and have a AF-XiED which makes the engine run so much better. I’ve said it twice, so it must be true (maybe).
They made it lean for certification as I’m sure you are aware. The difference a fuel spoofer makes is well worth the outlay. The reduced mpg is small but the engine runs so much better. I ride an oil head and have a AF-XiED which makes the engine run so much better. I’ve said it twice, so it must be true (maybe).
I just noticed your mileage. For balance, I never needed a replacement clutch on any bike all with mileages at least double your RT's.
As for lean running boxers, the last air-cooled twin went for a remap as there were times it would nigh on stall when having rolled off the throttle, then opening it up again. Normally on the approach to a roundabout. I specifically asked for a remap to smooth it out. Which it did, never had any issues after.
As for lean running boxers, the last air-cooled twin went for a remap as there were times it would nigh on stall when having rolled off the throttle, then opening it up again. Normally on the approach to a roundabout. I specifically asked for a remap to smooth it out. Which it did, never had any issues after.
For the poor running: Check valve clearances. I dont know if it's a single throttle body or twin TB, if it's twin TB then balance after valve checks and adjustment. Check for any air / gas leaks - inlet side, vacuum hoses, exhausts. With the engine running, squirt WD40 or similar fluid around areas and listen carefully for changes in the engine sound / rpm.
I don’t usually approve of multiple-quote responses, however: 
Unbusy said:
Has it always been like that on small throttle openings?
They made it lean for certification as I’m sure you are aware. The difference a fuel spoofer makes is well worth the outlay. The reduced mpg is small but the engine runs so much better. I ride an oil head and have a AF-XiED which makes the engine run so much better. I’ve said it twice, so it must be true (maybe).
They made it lean for certification as I’m sure you are aware. The difference a fuel spoofer makes is well worth the outlay. The reduced mpg is small but the engine runs so much better. I ride an oil head and have a AF-XiED which makes the engine run so much better. I’ve said it twice, so it must be true (maybe).
boxedin said:
As for lean running boxers, the last air-cooled twin went for a remap as there were times it would nigh on stall when having rolled off the throttle, then opening it up again. Normally on the approach to a roundabout. I specifically asked for a remap to smooth it out. Which it did, never had any issues after.
thatdude said:
For the poor running: Check valve clearances. I dont know if it's a single throttle body or twin TB, if it's twin TB then balance after valve checks and adjustment. Check for any air / gas leaks - inlet side, vacuum hoses, exhausts. With the engine running, squirt WD40 or similar fluid around areas and listen carefully for changes in the engine sound / rpm.
I think it’s always been a bit fussy but is possibly worse at the moment. I’ll rebalance the TBs and see. Re valve clearances, I had a chat with a BMW tech at Coopers and he said that on this model “they never need doing”. Always the exception though. Main reason I haven’t done them yet is the ballache of stripping it, measuring, and then having to go and but the required shims. Yes, I could buy a stack but iirc they are sill-expensive for what they are? Worth checking the air inlets too, thanks.boxedin said:
I just noticed your mileage. For balance, I never needed a replacement clutch on any bike all with mileages at least double your RT's.
I hear you, but bear in mind that probably close to 50% of my riding is filtering in central London where you’re on and off the clutch all the time. The indy who replaced it for me does a lot of BiB bikes and he reckoned with my riding I’d done well to get what I did out of it. But as I said, I won’t be paying for another one.PTF said:
Clutch on my VFR800 was about £60
I hear you, I hear you loud & clear…..SteelerSE said:
For a bike that is pretty much ideal for what you're using it for I think that I'd just spend the money. Get's you through another two years and then get rid with it owing you pretty much nothing at that point.
I think that’s where I’m at. I’m going to speak to Wilbers later. Yes it’s £550 but that will see me out of the bike easily, and in the scheme of things compared to either buying a new bike, or buying a used bike and then finding out what it needs spending on it, I think it’s best. Tyres and other consumables are going to be required whatever I buy, and whilst as I said this isn’t my P&J, it’s also good at what I need it for and for what 90% of my use of this bike is.CAPP0 said:
I think that’s where I’m at. I’m going to speak to Wilbers later. Yes it’s £550 but that will see me out of the bike easily, and in the scheme of things compared to either buying a new bike, or buying a used bike and then finding out what it needs spending on it, I think it’s best. Tyres and other consumables are going to be required whatever I buy, and whilst as I said this isn’t my P&J, it’s also good at what I need it for and for what 90% of my use of this bike is.
Don't forget to keep the old shock. It might be more sensible to put the old one back in (just after the bike's got an MoT) and sell the Wilbers one when it comes time to shift it all on.Gassing Station | Biker Banter | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff