Stuck rear brake pad pin cover

[TheThing]

Hi all. Bike is an SV650S. I dont know if anyone is familiar with them but I tried to change the rear brake pads today. The cover for the pin that holds the brake pads in is stuck solid. I cant budge it. Its basically a small hollow grub screw with a slot for a flat head screwdriver. Any one got any ideas to get it out. Thanks in advance.

[Biker's Nemesis]

Impact driver.

https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/screwdri...

[trickywoo]

I can’t help 100% but I recall reading a similar experience on another forum and the conclusion was that it either wasn’t necessary to remove it or it is removed a different counter intuitive way.

[TheThing]

It definitely needs to come out as you cant get the pads out with it in. Anyone reckon a screw remover will do the job? Im not sure an impact driver will do it as I may have slightly butchered the head with my enthusiasm. Oops.

[Rubin215]

Plenty of penetrating oil for a week, Wurth Rost Off freeze spray then an impact driver.

Failing that, just drill it out.

[TheThing]

Thanks for the replies guys. Im a bit worried about drilling as i dont want a small amount stuck in there as it will stop me from getting the pin out and ive got a feeling an impact driver will just knacker the head even more. I always used to home service my bikes and cars. This has just reminded me of why I started paying other people to do it for me!

[GadgeS3C]

Do you mean the two pins that the pads slide on?

Those seizing is very common on SVs. If you go to the https://forums.sv650.org you'll find lots of advice.

If it is the pins replace them with stainless ones.

[TheThing]

GadgeS3C said:

Do you mean the two pins that the pads slide on?

Those seizing is very common on SVs. If you go to the https://forums.sv650.org you'll find lots of advice.

If it is the pins replace them with stainless ones.

No its the cover for the pin on the rear caliper. Its roughly a 10mm hollow grub screw with a slot head. Its a bad design really as it doesnt even need to be there as the pin screws in behind it. If I can find a picture I'll link it.

[TheThing]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/280856073006?chn=ps&n...

See the small black cover in the advert

[Biker's Nemesis]

Impact driver will shift that, just make sure you have the wider bit fitted and the impact tool turned the right way for loosening.

Use the force.

[ssray]

Choices are
First impact driver but use plus gas first not wd40
Drill it with a left hand drill bit(this worked on my cbr600fx)
Drill and use a extractor

[GadgeS3C]

TheThing said:

No its the cover for the pin on the rear caliper. Its roughly a 10mm hollow grub screw with a slot head. Its a bad design really as it doesnt even need to be there as the pin screws in behind it. If I can find a picture I'll link it.

Ah, ok. Different design to the '01 model I have.

I suspect the cover is to stop the pin seizing. As others have said, penetrating oil and impact driver. Good luck!

Edited by GadgeS3C on Tuesday 4th August 20:53

[TheThing]

Thanks guys. Impact driver it is then. Is there anything I can put in the head of the screw to give the driver a bit more purchase? I was thinking gun gum or the like and letting it go solid.

[GadgeS3C]

TheThing said:

Thanks guys. Impact driver it is then. Is there anything I can put in the head of the screw to give the driver a bit more purchase? I was thinking gun gum or the like and letting it go solid.

Just make sure you have the widest bit that fits well in the slot of the screw. If it's already a bit chewed you can hammer (carefully) the bit into the slot. Maybe cleaning up the slot with a needle file.

Key thing with impact driver is to give it a good solid whack with a BFH (Big Hammer), don't tippy tap it.

[Rubin215]

TheThing said:

Thanks guys. Impact driver it is then. Is there anything I can put in the head of the screw to give the driver a bit more purchase? I was thinking gun gum or the like and letting it go solid.

Grinding paste gives a little bit more grip, a spot-weld significantly more.

[Hungrymc]

I’ve had to drill one out, once the center is removed it came very easily. No damage to the threads.

[TheThing]

For those that are interested as I'm sure there are many, I let and engineer friend loose at it with a screw driver and a hammer. It cracked after about 5 taps. I obviously loosened it first time around. Annoying thing is I only had the caliper sorted about 5 weeks ago as it seized. The mechanic must have over tightened it.

[Benni]

What cracked, the caliper, the caliper mount oder the annoying screw ?
Seems like a stupid engineering solution, a simple slotted bolt in an area where road grime,
brake dust, water are common, in a component that heats up regularly, trouble waiting to happen.
Is there another part available with Torx or InHex head ?
I would pack that with anti-seize paste on reassembly.

[TheThing]

Lol, nothing actually cracked. That's just my poor terminology for meaning he undone it. He didn't just let rip with a hammer, he was pretty gentle to be honest.

[TheThing]

Bloody thing is stuck in there again! What is going on? Only trouble is now is that the heads even more mangled than it was before. Pain in the fking arse!