Discussion
I had a 2010 one for 18 months and about 10k miles.
Plus points:
Absolutely belting bike. Hands down the best engine of any bike i've tried/owned. Monster torque and a screaming top end. Huge power everywhere.
Also remarkably economical, easily getting 50mpg with average in the mid 50s.
I went from a K1300S to a Blackbird (because it was going spare), and it felt like going from a litre bike to a 600, plus was worse on fuel.
Super comfy. The most comfy bike i've had. Really good compromise between wrist and arse weight.
Quickshifter is ace. Even though mine was up only. Though i prefer that. I like doing my own downshifts.
Shaft drive. Was great. Never felt sloppy or anything.
Bad points:
Oil consumption. Mine wasn't too bad, though it did ask for 1/2 litre between services, and you have to use Mobil racing oil (i think?) specifc to these bikes. Never had a bike needing oil topups before
Measing oil level is a faff. Mine had no centre stand and you have a tube between the sump and oil reserviour to measure the level in. It's a pain. Also, don't measure the oil level when the engine is cold!!! The oil seeps back down into the sump so can give an inaccurately low reading!! Easy to overfill it.
Front end lacks feel. It felt quite disconnected i guess thanks to the telelever susp up front. It was always faithful and stable, it just never felt massively planted.
ESA doesn't really do much. Yeah, sport mode is quite firm, but comfort isn't massively plush either. I wouldn't bother with it
It worried me. I had a 2 yr BMW warranty on it as i bought from a BMW dealer, but not sure i'd want to run one out of warranty. There is a lot of tech on these! It probably wouldn't go wrong, but you'd be sorry if it did.
I'd have another. Though i'd be more tempted now by a 2015+ S1000RR.
Great bikes. If they made something with that engine, quickshifter and riding position, but with more conventional suspension/forks it would be absolutely spot on.
ETA: I forgot to mention finish and cleaning. Mine was a right PITA to keep clean. My blackbird i could throw a bucket of soapy water over once a month and it always looked alright (or at least no worse than it did before for a 18 yr oid bike). The K13 needed meticulous cleaning. The mix of materials seemed to need quite close attention to bring them up to a nice finish. And the standard exhaust can stains with the merest hint of wet weather - get handy with autosol if you want it to look nice (or get one with an akrapovic can fitted, which is what i'd do next time)
Plus points:
Absolutely belting bike. Hands down the best engine of any bike i've tried/owned. Monster torque and a screaming top end. Huge power everywhere.
Also remarkably economical, easily getting 50mpg with average in the mid 50s.
I went from a K1300S to a Blackbird (because it was going spare), and it felt like going from a litre bike to a 600, plus was worse on fuel.
Super comfy. The most comfy bike i've had. Really good compromise between wrist and arse weight.
Quickshifter is ace. Even though mine was up only. Though i prefer that. I like doing my own downshifts.
Shaft drive. Was great. Never felt sloppy or anything.
Bad points:
Oil consumption. Mine wasn't too bad, though it did ask for 1/2 litre between services, and you have to use Mobil racing oil (i think?) specifc to these bikes. Never had a bike needing oil topups before
Measing oil level is a faff. Mine had no centre stand and you have a tube between the sump and oil reserviour to measure the level in. It's a pain. Also, don't measure the oil level when the engine is cold!!! The oil seeps back down into the sump so can give an inaccurately low reading!! Easy to overfill it.
Front end lacks feel. It felt quite disconnected i guess thanks to the telelever susp up front. It was always faithful and stable, it just never felt massively planted.
ESA doesn't really do much. Yeah, sport mode is quite firm, but comfort isn't massively plush either. I wouldn't bother with it
It worried me. I had a 2 yr BMW warranty on it as i bought from a BMW dealer, but not sure i'd want to run one out of warranty. There is a lot of tech on these! It probably wouldn't go wrong, but you'd be sorry if it did.
I'd have another. Though i'd be more tempted now by a 2015+ S1000RR.
Great bikes. If they made something with that engine, quickshifter and riding position, but with more conventional suspension/forks it would be absolutely spot on.
ETA: I forgot to mention finish and cleaning. Mine was a right PITA to keep clean. My blackbird i could throw a bucket of soapy water over once a month and it always looked alright (or at least no worse than it did before for a 18 yr oid bike). The K13 needed meticulous cleaning. The mix of materials seemed to need quite close attention to bring them up to a nice finish. And the standard exhaust can stains with the merest hint of wet weather - get handy with autosol if you want it to look nice (or get one with an akrapovic can fitted, which is what i'd do next time)
Edited by PTF on Wednesday 23 September 13:57
Firstly, sign up here: https://eurokclub.bike/ They'll give you a very honest and comprehensive list of what to look for.
Let me start by saying these are the second best "do it all" bikes I've ever owned (My H2 SX is slightly better!) They'll take you and your luggage, and your pillion if you want, to the Alps comfortably in one day. Doing some pretty impressive VMax runs on the autobahns if that's your thing. They'll then happily chase sports bikes around the passes, never being embarrassed, for a couple of days before doing the run home, again, comfortably in one day.
The are also surprisingly good at long range commuting. I put over 50,000 miles (over three years) on each of my bikes commuting from Suffolk to the South Bank and never had an issue other than an occasional puncture (spotted by the on-board TPMS!)
That all said, they do have their issues.
The radiator gets "bunged up" by the crud on UK roads. Regular (annual) cleaning can delay the inevitable but it will eventually need a replacement radiator. That just starts the process again.
The front ball joints need replacing at about the same rate as normal steering head bearings but are more complicated/expensive to replace.
The shaft UJs are not on the service schedule and eventually run dry. Add some grease on an annual basis and they won't be an issue.
Like most BMWs of that era, they had issues with the handlebar switches. These should have been replaced as "good will" from BMW but may not have been. If you're looking at buying from a dealer, get them replaced (if not already done) or get agreement that they will be replaced if they fail in the next couple of years.
Some bikes suffered what is known as the "hot start" issue. (Neither of mine did) It's a simple issue that the starter cable gets too much resistance if it gets hot. BMW do a fix kit that involves an additional "piggy back" cable. Again, if you're buying from a dealer then mention this and get some form of assurance (in writing) from the dealer.
Beyond those issues, it's the normal stuff to look for on any bike of that age. I found the ESA to be really useful, both when adding a pillion, and when moving from smooth fast A roads to rough country B roads. If the ESA shock dies (as all shocks do eventually) then they can be rebuilt by MCT in Stowmarket for less than £100
IMHO these really are superb bikes which are easy to ride in just about any road situation. They're fast (170mph+), comfortable (600+ mile,12+ hours a day), practical (integral luggage, heated grips etc.), economical (50mpg/200 mile range) and more fun than any shaft drive bike with a pillion and panniers has a right to be.
ETA
This shows that they were the most popular bike with the Old Gits ...
Let me start by saying these are the second best "do it all" bikes I've ever owned (My H2 SX is slightly better!) They'll take you and your luggage, and your pillion if you want, to the Alps comfortably in one day. Doing some pretty impressive VMax runs on the autobahns if that's your thing. They'll then happily chase sports bikes around the passes, never being embarrassed, for a couple of days before doing the run home, again, comfortably in one day.
The are also surprisingly good at long range commuting. I put over 50,000 miles (over three years) on each of my bikes commuting from Suffolk to the South Bank and never had an issue other than an occasional puncture (spotted by the on-board TPMS!)
That all said, they do have their issues.
The radiator gets "bunged up" by the crud on UK roads. Regular (annual) cleaning can delay the inevitable but it will eventually need a replacement radiator. That just starts the process again.
The front ball joints need replacing at about the same rate as normal steering head bearings but are more complicated/expensive to replace.
The shaft UJs are not on the service schedule and eventually run dry. Add some grease on an annual basis and they won't be an issue.
Like most BMWs of that era, they had issues with the handlebar switches. These should have been replaced as "good will" from BMW but may not have been. If you're looking at buying from a dealer, get them replaced (if not already done) or get agreement that they will be replaced if they fail in the next couple of years.
Some bikes suffered what is known as the "hot start" issue. (Neither of mine did) It's a simple issue that the starter cable gets too much resistance if it gets hot. BMW do a fix kit that involves an additional "piggy back" cable. Again, if you're buying from a dealer then mention this and get some form of assurance (in writing) from the dealer.
Beyond those issues, it's the normal stuff to look for on any bike of that age. I found the ESA to be really useful, both when adding a pillion, and when moving from smooth fast A roads to rough country B roads. If the ESA shock dies (as all shocks do eventually) then they can be rebuilt by MCT in Stowmarket for less than £100
IMHO these really are superb bikes which are easy to ride in just about any road situation. They're fast (170mph+), comfortable (600+ mile,12+ hours a day), practical (integral luggage, heated grips etc.), economical (50mpg/200 mile range) and more fun than any shaft drive bike with a pillion and panniers has a right to be.
ETA
This shows that they were the most popular bike with the Old Gits ...
Edited by black-k1 on Wednesday 23 September 12:05
Krikkit said:
Some great info as usual, thanks both for top quality posting.
Just out of interest, does the new switchgear still go wrong? Are they still fitting stuff in 2020 which is defective?
I believe the switch gear issue has been addressed and that both new bikes, and those where the switch gear has been changed, should not suffer any issues. Just out of interest, does the new switchgear still go wrong? Are they still fitting stuff in 2020 which is defective?
myvision said:
black-k1 said:
Oh come on, don't just leave us in suspenders! Do you now plan to buy the bike or not?
As soon as I find one I like the look of I will buy it.I just missed a lava orange one I went to look at.
Our "scientific and comprehensive" testing on the Old Gits trips proved that Orange was the slowest colour, so it's probably a blessing in disguise!
bolidemichael said:
I've been watching these for ages. What of the premium for the motorsports edition, black-k1?
All of the different editions (The Anniversary, the HP, the Sport, the Motorsport etc.) are just a combination of a colour scheme and a raid on the optional extras parts bins. Any of the "premium" parts on those editions can be fitted (at additional cost) to any K1300S.I had a Sport, then a MotorSport. Both had all the usual options (quickshifter, heated grips, ESA, TPMS, ABS/TCS etc.) The Motorsport also had the Akrapovic can (I optionally fitted one from new to my previous Sport), the forged wheels and the rear-set pegs. While the wheels were (just) noticeably better than standard, it was "only just" and, IMHO, would not be worth spending money on if they weren't fitted as standard.
The rear-sets were slightly better when "having fun" but not quite as comfortable on long runs. They are shorter than standard, completely round and have a very rough surface to provide grip, This can lead to increased wear on the soles of your boots!
One issue with them is that they are listed in the BMW parts catalogue as a complete unit. That meant that when the bolt holding the toe end onto the gear lever fell out on a trip to the south of France (after i'd clouted the lever into a large traffic cone moving the bike around a hotel garage) I couldn't just replace the toe end and bolt. I needed to replace the whole thing, including gear lever, foot peg and mounting plate. (read lots of €€€€) Luckily I managed to find the actual toe end so used a non-BMW (thus not overpriced) bolt! Where the wheels did show a slight improvement on the bike, for me, the rear-sets did nothing. I think I would rather have had the "normal" footpegs.
Both of my bikes are in the picture above. My Motorsport was "killed off" by an encounter with Bambi, but it had 50,000 miles on it and still ran as sweetly as the day it came out of the crate at the dealers. I sold my Sport to a fellow Old Git (sometimes posts on here) when it had 54,000 miles on it. I think it's now pushing 80,000 miles and still looks (almost) like new. As far as I know, it's needed a rear shock, a second radiator and regular servicing. That's it. I don't think I ever had to have a single valve shim replaced on either bike.
Don't be afraid of bikes with a higher mileage if they've been looked after and serviced according to the schedule.
As a comment on oil usage, my Sport never needed a drop between services. The Motorsport got through around a litre every 5000 miles. While checking the oil to get an exact reading can be a pain as described above, they all come with a low oil level/time to top up warning light! I used to ensure there was oil visible in the tube as described above but not care if it was the right level or not, thus didn't have to wait the recommended time interval from switching the engine off (5 minutes I believe) before checking. I'd then top up as soon as the warning light suggested I needed to.
You do need to ensure you use the right specification oil as the clutch is particularly picky about the oil used and really doesn't like it if it's not the right stuff. (and I'm not just talking about putting fully synthetic in!)
HTH.
My ideal spec. would not be a specific edition but a list of the following:
ESA
Heated Grips
ABS/TCS
Panniers
Decent can.
Full service history - either main dealer or good specialist.
I'd also do a check on the condition of the radiator. It's detailed on the EuroKBike forum listed above but it involves getting the bike warm enough to get the fan on then seeing how long it takes to go off while the bike is on it's stand.
Not Orange - but that's just me!!!
I'd definitely not reject a MotorSport (and would be happy with one) but I'd not pay any form of premium for it.
BMW only made the MotorSport edition for the last 2 years of production which is why they are more common in the dealers.
With an imaginary pile of cash, I'd be looking for a good 2013 or 20014 bike with as many extras as I could get and with between 15,000 and 30,000 miles. I'd suggest they probably offer the best value for money.
PS - the BMW extended warranty is available for any bike with a dealer service history, regardless of age, and is, I'd suggest a worthwhile addition.
ESA
Heated Grips
ABS/TCS
Panniers
Decent can.
Full service history - either main dealer or good specialist.
I'd also do a check on the condition of the radiator. It's detailed on the EuroKBike forum listed above but it involves getting the bike warm enough to get the fan on then seeing how long it takes to go off while the bike is on it's stand.
Not Orange - but that's just me!!!
I'd definitely not reject a MotorSport (and would be happy with one) but I'd not pay any form of premium for it.
BMW only made the MotorSport edition for the last 2 years of production which is why they are more common in the dealers.
With an imaginary pile of cash, I'd be looking for a good 2013 or 20014 bike with as many extras as I could get and with between 15,000 and 30,000 miles. I'd suggest they probably offer the best value for money.
PS - the BMW extended warranty is available for any bike with a dealer service history, regardless of age, and is, I'd suggest a worthwhile addition.
PTF said:
Did any of these come with cruise? Having tried a 1250GS with that fitted, it's high on my list of future requirements if I have another
Unfortunately not. The throttle is good old fashioned cables rather "than fly by wire" so cruise control would be pretty complex to retro fit. Dammit. I've found myself trawling for K1300s' now.
I had a K1200S for 3 months as I needed a bike quickly for a mate as we had a euro trip planned. It was such a lovely bike in reality. Fine, it did cost me a LOT in that 3 months, but I believe the 13 fixed most of the 12's issues. I'd gladly spend a bit more now and get a decent example 13.
I had a K1200S for 3 months as I needed a bike quickly for a mate as we had a euro trip planned. It was such a lovely bike in reality. Fine, it did cost me a LOT in that 3 months, but I believe the 13 fixed most of the 12's issues. I'd gladly spend a bit more now and get a decent example 13.
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