Brake Caliper Rebuild
Discussion
Evening all,
I'd like to do a brake caliper seal service on my 2011 GSXR 600 track bike brakes over the winter (first time trying it...)
Are there any recommendations on where to source the parts from? Is it OEM from main dealer all the way or does anyone have any ebay stores etc they buy from?
Do people typically just do seals or pistons too?
Any tips appreciated please.
I'd like to do a brake caliper seal service on my 2011 GSXR 600 track bike brakes over the winter (first time trying it...)
Are there any recommendations on where to source the parts from? Is it OEM from main dealer all the way or does anyone have any ebay stores etc they buy from?
Do people typically just do seals or pistons too?
Any tips appreciated please.
It’s surprising what you can happily reuse with a good clean and smear of red rubber grease.
I did a rebuild on Tocikos which had done 20k miles and nothing actually needed replacing. All the seals looked great and still felt supple after a clean and the pistons had zero pitting.
I certainly wouldn’t replace pistons unless they were marked and unless you want to do it quickly I wouldn’t even order seals until you’ve seen the condition first.
I did a rebuild on Tocikos which had done 20k miles and nothing actually needed replacing. All the seals looked great and still felt supple after a clean and the pistons had zero pitting.
I certainly wouldn’t replace pistons unless they were marked and unless you want to do it quickly I wouldn’t even order seals until you’ve seen the condition first.
HughiusMaximus said:
Any other tips?
Are they monoblocks or split?Monos are a bit more time consuming as it’s normally easier to do one piston at a time. I cable tie all bar one piston pushing the desired one out.
I’ve always managed to get pistons out with a manual air pump, as long as the bare hose is squashy but yet firm enough to fit in the threaded banjo bolt hole.
If that doesn’t work for you get some good quality internal piston pullers as no matter how careful you are getting hold of the piston with pliers will end up scratching them.
Wemoto do caliper overhaul kits....
https://www.wemoto.com/parts/brake_caliper_seal_ki...
https://www.wemoto.com/parts/brake_caliper_seal_ki...
Edited by Speedy23 on Wednesday 9th December 22:46
Cleaning the grooves where the seals sit is the most important detail, I use an engineers right angled scriber, a small allen key and a tiny rotary wire brush in a dremel to make sure all the muck and corrosion is removed.
I have been told that a quick trip through the dishwasher cleans calipers up nicely but I use brake cleaner and a toothbrush.
I have been told that a quick trip through the dishwasher cleans calipers up nicely but I use brake cleaner and a toothbrush.
kev b said:
Cleaning the grooves where the seals sit is the most important detail, I use an engineers right angled scriber, a small allen key and a tiny rotary wire brush in a dremel to make sure all the muck and corrosion is removed.
Good advice but some callipers are better than others having anodised grooves which you don’t want to damage / remove so just a toothbrush and brake cleaner should do it for these.A few corrections now I am fully awake - the tiny wire brushes I use are brass, I use them on really grotty callipers or the occasional cast iron example.
My scriber I use mostly for the outer dust seal groove which is always grubbiest and not safety critical.The dishwasher is used, so I am told, on the hottest cycle, with very little detergent for delicate alloy parts.
When you have a calliper apart it really brings home the fact that all there is between yourself and possible oblivion are three small circles of rubber, no dual circuit systems on bikes. I know you have the rear brake but that won’t help much at the end of Park Straight.
Surprisingly brake seal failure seems very rare nowadays,even badly corroded pistons just seem to leak fluid a bit without suddenly failing, stuck on brakes are far more likely ime.
My scriber I use mostly for the outer dust seal groove which is always grubbiest and not safety critical.The dishwasher is used, so I am told, on the hottest cycle, with very little detergent for delicate alloy parts.
When you have a calliper apart it really brings home the fact that all there is between yourself and possible oblivion are three small circles of rubber, no dual circuit systems on bikes. I know you have the rear brake but that won’t help much at the end of Park Straight.
Surprisingly brake seal failure seems very rare nowadays,even badly corroded pistons just seem to leak fluid a bit without suddenly failing, stuck on brakes are far more likely ime.
Thanks for the replies all.
Brakes are brembo momobloc so I imagine it will be a bit trickier to get the pistons out and clean.
What's the application advice on the red rubber grease? Liberal slathering and then reseat the seals or let the grease sit on for a while and then wipe off excess before reinstalling?
Brakes are brembo momobloc so I imagine it will be a bit trickier to get the pistons out and clean.
What's the application advice on the red rubber grease? Liberal slathering and then reseat the seals or let the grease sit on for a while and then wipe off excess before reinstalling?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/353185322821?chn=ps&m...
Buy these, oh good lord buy f
king these.
Personally I wouldn't reuse any seal if I'm taking the piston out. It might look ok and it probably is but I always replace any seals I 'disturb'.
Remove callipers, stick a block of wood or brake pad in between them and pump the lever until the piston is exposed more than normal.
Off with the lines, have lots of paper towels, cable ties and food zip bags ready so you can keep the leakage of brake fluid to a min and don't have to bleed dry lines.
Use the above tool. Personally I just use some Autosol and a toothbrush to clean up, maybe a scouring pad for tough bits, then pack it with red grease.
Oh and I soak my seals in brake fluid prior to fitting.
Like everything, you'll fk it up the first couple of times but its a pretty satisfying job.
Buy these, oh good lord buy f
king these. Personally I wouldn't reuse any seal if I'm taking the piston out. It might look ok and it probably is but I always replace any seals I 'disturb'.
Remove callipers, stick a block of wood or brake pad in between them and pump the lever until the piston is exposed more than normal.
Off with the lines, have lots of paper towels, cable ties and food zip bags ready so you can keep the leakage of brake fluid to a min and don't have to bleed dry lines.
Use the above tool. Personally I just use some Autosol and a toothbrush to clean up, maybe a scouring pad for tough bits, then pack it with red grease.
Oh and I soak my seals in brake fluid prior to fitting.
Like everything, you'll f
k it up the first couple of times but its a pretty satisfying job. make sure all the pistons move before removing.one of them
getting a stuck one from a brembo monoblock was an utter tt of a job
i had some on a zzr (m50) i wish i had never started that job
compressed air blast can help but the other pistons have to be in place and held
brembo seal kits come with their own fluid for smearing on if you by new
getting a stuck one from a brembo monoblock was an utter t
t of a jobi had some on a zzr (m50) i wish i had never started that job
compressed air blast can help but the other pistons have to be in place and held
brembo seal kits come with their own fluid for smearing on if you by new
moanthebairns said:
Thanks mtb, that's a good-looking tool. Nothing more frustrating than stuck pistons once it's already disassembled!ETA: I hope I'm not overstepping the mark here, but could I ask if anyone knows a good seller of Brembo seal/piston kits? They're fairly boring M4s on my Monster but I'd like to give them a proper strip-down and sort-out.
Edited by Krikkit on Thursday 10th December 12:47
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Bike-Brake-P...
That is another great tool to have.
I normally use a company on Ebay called "Powerhouse", now called "brakemaster" I think for all my seal kits, washers etc.. I've found them to be a good balance of price and quality.
That is another great tool to have.
I normally use a company on Ebay called "Powerhouse", now called "brakemaster" I think for all my seal kits, washers etc.. I've found them to be a good balance of price and quality.
Edited by the cueball on Thursday 10th December 12:48
I've rebuilt several car and bike calipers, always user Powerhouse on eBay, great kits, good quality, never had any issues.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/powerhouse-uk?_trksid=p...
Also recommend piston pulling tools, plenty brake cleaner (I buy a big 5 litre bottle and a refillable sprayer) and a small cylinder honing tool if they need it.
I find it a strangely therapeutic job!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/powerhouse-uk?_trksid=p...
Also recommend piston pulling tools, plenty brake cleaner (I buy a big 5 litre bottle and a refillable sprayer) and a small cylinder honing tool if they need it.
I find it a strangely therapeutic job!
HughiusMaximus said:
Ordered!
Thanks for the advice.
What brake fluid do you use for track work? I used DOT 5.1 in the last change cause I thought I might get brake fade from DOT 4
Don’t use Dot 5.1 the dry and wet boiling temps are 270 & 190, where as Motul 660 dot 4.1 is better at 325 & 204C. Thanks for the advice.
What brake fluid do you use for track work? I used DOT 5.1 in the last change cause I thought I might get brake fade from DOT 4
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181244281882
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