Cost to repaint
Discussion
Anyone got a rough idea how much to repaint tank, tailpiece and front mudguard off a gsx1400. Mine is black and I’d really like it a deep blue pearl. All one colour, so fairly simple.
Alternative is to paint it myself with rattle cans. I have done this in the past, but is it possible to get a paint or lacquer these days that’s genuinely resistant to petrol ?
Alternative is to paint it myself with rattle cans. I have done this in the past, but is it possible to get a paint or lacquer these days that’s genuinely resistant to petrol ?
If it’s a bike you intend to keep I’d go for a professional job, especially for the tank.
Petrol resistant lacquer from a rattle can seems to be fairly hit and miss.
Best to ask about locally and see who’s known for doing bikes or a good job generally.
Prices seem to vary hugely from area to area, I live near Aberdeen and I’m often shocked how cheaply my mate in Sunderland can get stuff done!
Petrol resistant lacquer from a rattle can seems to be fairly hit and miss.
Best to ask about locally and see who’s known for doing bikes or a good job generally.
Prices seem to vary hugely from area to area, I live near Aberdeen and I’m often shocked how cheaply my mate in Sunderland can get stuff done!
Speed addicted said:
If it’s a bike you intend to keep I’d go for a professional job, especially for the tank.
Petrol resistant lacquer from a rattle can seems to be fairly hit and miss.
Best to ask about locally and see who’s known for doing bikes or a good job generally.
Prices seem to vary hugely from area to area, I live near Aberdeen and I’m often shocked how cheaply my mate in Sunderland can get stuff done!
I might need some bike paint done in the North east. Any chance you have the name of your mate's painter?Petrol resistant lacquer from a rattle can seems to be fairly hit and miss.
Best to ask about locally and see who’s known for doing bikes or a good job generally.
Prices seem to vary hugely from area to area, I live near Aberdeen and I’m often shocked how cheaply my mate in Sunderland can get stuff done!
Labour is relatively cheap in my area but a proper job will still be costly.
A local well respected restorer charges about £750 for a single colour concours job, thats just tank and side panels though.
If you know a paint shop worker who does “Saturday morning” jobs you're possibly looking at half that.
The legshield alone of a mates 1960s Lambretta cost over £1200 for a single colour restoration.
Painting your Suzuki with pearl paint will add a great deal to the cost, its expensive and tricky to work with.
The mates rate around here for a proper single colour job on a non battered tank and side-panels is £350+
A local well respected restorer charges about £750 for a single colour concours job, thats just tank and side panels though.
If you know a paint shop worker who does “Saturday morning” jobs you're possibly looking at half that.
The legshield alone of a mates 1960s Lambretta cost over £1200 for a single colour restoration.
Painting your Suzuki with pearl paint will add a great deal to the cost, its expensive and tricky to work with.
The mates rate around here for a proper single colour job on a non battered tank and side-panels is £350+
MrsMiggins said:
Speed addicted said:
If it’s a bike you intend to keep I’d go for a professional job, especially for the tank.
Petrol resistant lacquer from a rattle can seems to be fairly hit and miss.
Best to ask about locally and see who’s known for doing bikes or a good job generally.
Prices seem to vary hugely from area to area, I live near Aberdeen and I’m often shocked how cheaply my mate in Sunderland can get stuff done!
I might need some bike paint done in the North east. Any chance you have the name of your mate's painter?Petrol resistant lacquer from a rattle can seems to be fairly hit and miss.
Best to ask about locally and see who’s known for doing bikes or a good job generally.
Prices seem to vary hugely from area to area, I live near Aberdeen and I’m often shocked how cheaply my mate in Sunderland can get stuff done!
Stevemr said:
Ouch, I was not expecting it to be that much at all!
So it’s going to have to be a DIY job!
Any recommendations for rattle can paints, in particular petrol resistant lacquer?
The quality of the result with rattle cans s less to do with the paint and much more with the prep and the polishing afterwards. Even runs can be sanded down. So it’s going to have to be a DIY job!
Any recommendations for rattle can paints, in particular petrol resistant lacquer?
I would have thought most auto paint laquer would be petrol resistant, otherwise it would be pretty useless, but I await a rebuttal if I'm wring
Stevemr said:
Ouch, I was not expecting it to be that much at all!
So it’s going to have to be a DIY job!
Any recommendations for rattle can paints, in particular petrol resistant lacquer?
The Halfords products seem to be fine, my YSR80 has a rattle can paintjob ,frame to bodywork, friend I bought it from has did a great job of it , the frame in particular has had plenty of petrol on it without causing an issue, their laquer must be good...So it’s going to have to be a DIY job!
Any recommendations for rattle can paints, in particular petrol resistant lacquer?
For what its worth, I had my LC painted around this time last year and inc decals that cost £600 , excellent workmanship, chap is Leicester based.
Cakey_ said:
Look into having it vinyl wrapped if the paint is flat enough underneath.
Will save a fortune and easy to go back from if you change your mind
A colleague had her Tiger 900 wrapped recently, looks really good and a lot cheaper than a respray. Dunno how durable it is compared to paint though.Will save a fortune and easy to go back from if you change your mind
Not too keen on wrapping it really.
Not sure why though!
I have painted bikes with rattle cans years ago and got good results, as mentioned above lots of careful preparation and sanding between coats.
But back then paints from cans were not at all resistant to fuel, which just meant being v careful when filling up.
I do like doing stuff myself!
Thinking a deep pearl blue with maybe a couple of Cobra type wide stripes in silver metallic across the top might look good?
Not sure why though!
I have painted bikes with rattle cans years ago and got good results, as mentioned above lots of careful preparation and sanding between coats.
But back then paints from cans were not at all resistant to fuel, which just meant being v careful when filling up.
I do like doing stuff myself!
Thinking a deep pearl blue with maybe a couple of Cobra type wide stripes in silver metallic across the top might look good?
Painting bike parts is something which I do quite a lot, to a high standard, but not professionally. So maybe this will help a bit, as most things I have learned through trial and error:
For a decent rattle can paint job, you'll probably end up spending more money and time than expected. Good quality paint is worth the expense and really makes the whole process easier. I switched to a spray gun after my first two small restorations. But let's leave this aside, as it makes everything even more difficult.
The most important thing is to use 2K clear and spend some time for preparation. A shoddy, but evenly laid clear coat can be fixed with buffing.
Sanding: If your actual paint job is good, no scratches, no rust, no spots where plastic or metal shines through you should be able to avoid a new base coat. 1000-1200 grit wet or dry sanding. I use 3m soft pads or abralon. Way easier to avoid sanding through to bare metal/plastic on edges. Clean with degreaser.
Base coat: For most metallic and pearl paints you'll probably have to use a different base colour first. Usually black or silver. Don't mix water based paint with acrylic. Test if your pearl coat can be applied on on your base coat after a short while. You should lay out all parts for painting how they are located on the bike, and paint all parts in one go, to avoid different shades. For example: First black base, then your effect paint of choice and then 2K clear. First layer very thin, let dry for up to 30 minutes, then a second thicker layer, let dry, and maybe a third to have good coverage. As metallic shouldn't be buffed, I'd repeat the same procedure with 2K clear immediately afterwards. This sounds awfully complicated, but should give you a very good result.
For a decent rattle can paint job, you'll probably end up spending more money and time than expected. Good quality paint is worth the expense and really makes the whole process easier. I switched to a spray gun after my first two small restorations. But let's leave this aside, as it makes everything even more difficult.
The most important thing is to use 2K clear and spend some time for preparation. A shoddy, but evenly laid clear coat can be fixed with buffing.
Sanding: If your actual paint job is good, no scratches, no rust, no spots where plastic or metal shines through you should be able to avoid a new base coat. 1000-1200 grit wet or dry sanding. I use 3m soft pads or abralon. Way easier to avoid sanding through to bare metal/plastic on edges. Clean with degreaser.
Base coat: For most metallic and pearl paints you'll probably have to use a different base colour first. Usually black or silver. Don't mix water based paint with acrylic. Test if your pearl coat can be applied on on your base coat after a short while. You should lay out all parts for painting how they are located on the bike, and paint all parts in one go, to avoid different shades. For example: First black base, then your effect paint of choice and then 2K clear. First layer very thin, let dry for up to 30 minutes, then a second thicker layer, let dry, and maybe a third to have good coverage. As metallic shouldn't be buffed, I'd repeat the same procedure with 2K clear immediately afterwards. This sounds awfully complicated, but should give you a very good result.
If you are still motivated and want to add stripes, no problem. I'm in the process of adding 24k gold pinstriping to a recently painted solid colour fuel tank, so at this stage:
Let your parts dry for at least two days, or as advised on the clear coat can.
Sand your parts again, same grid, same tedious work as before.
Mask carefully and degrease your parts. Apply paint. At this stage, it's best to let the stripes dry for approx. an hour and remove the masking tape very carefully not touching the paint, or you'll end up having very ugly borders when attempting to remove days later. Let dry fully.
Now, as the stripes are not covered with clear, I'd clean the parts with a very mild degreaser or water, and then cover it with clear coat again.
Buffing: Wet sand 3000-4000 and buff with the best available polish you can find. Heavy cut first, then maybe some swirl remover.
A professional painter will probably only need 25% of the time a DIY attempt consumes, by using a spray booth/gun and high quality polishing equipment, so there's that, but a very rewarding feeling once you get this right and it looks perfect.
Let your parts dry for at least two days, or as advised on the clear coat can.
Sand your parts again, same grid, same tedious work as before.
Mask carefully and degrease your parts. Apply paint. At this stage, it's best to let the stripes dry for approx. an hour and remove the masking tape very carefully not touching the paint, or you'll end up having very ugly borders when attempting to remove days later. Let dry fully.
Now, as the stripes are not covered with clear, I'd clean the parts with a very mild degreaser or water, and then cover it with clear coat again.
Buffing: Wet sand 3000-4000 and buff with the best available polish you can find. Heavy cut first, then maybe some swirl remover.
A professional painter will probably only need 25% of the time a DIY attempt consumes, by using a spray booth/gun and high quality polishing equipment, so there's that, but a very rewarding feeling once you get this right and it looks perfect.
Thanks for all the replies.
Especially to MJ for taking the time to post all that very useful info.
A few questions,
Are you saying it’s better not to strip back to bare metal? Paint is in pretty good condition, certainly no rust!
Do I need to treat plastic parts any different, special primer ? Or is it just a case of sanding then cracking on with same paint?
With the 2k lacquer, do you need any kind of PPE.
I was planning on hanging parts up in the garage to spray, it’s a very clean space, but do you do anything to reduce dust at all?
You mentioned gold stripes, is there a reason you would paint them after lacquer, I would have thought doing all paint would go on first then lacquer?
Any recommendations for paint makers/ suppliers?
Especially to MJ for taking the time to post all that very useful info.
A few questions,
Are you saying it’s better not to strip back to bare metal? Paint is in pretty good condition, certainly no rust!
Do I need to treat plastic parts any different, special primer ? Or is it just a case of sanding then cracking on with same paint?
With the 2k lacquer, do you need any kind of PPE.
I was planning on hanging parts up in the garage to spray, it’s a very clean space, but do you do anything to reduce dust at all?
You mentioned gold stripes, is there a reason you would paint them after lacquer, I would have thought doing all paint would go on first then lacquer?
Any recommendations for paint makers/ suppliers?
Damping down the floor will help to reduce dust.
A heater of some sort will almost certainly be necessary if you're spraying in a garage in these temps - damp will cause the paint to "bloom".
(proper brushed) Pinstripes are normally applied after all the clear coat etc. is finished. Decals either before or after.
If you are feeling brave, you could try brush painting - I won't go into detail, as you can look it up if interested - takes a bit of patience, but gives a lovely thick finish that can be flatted and cut back to give a gorgeous finish. I've done bikes and cars with coach paints, a friend restores stagecoaches/horse drawn carriages and his results are fantastic.
Finally, I'd advise asking around at car and bike meets - a mate had his Shovelhead recently sprayed in a single metallic blue with Harley logos. Twin tanks and front and rear mudguards came to about £300.
A heater of some sort will almost certainly be necessary if you're spraying in a garage in these temps - damp will cause the paint to "bloom".
(proper brushed) Pinstripes are normally applied after all the clear coat etc. is finished. Decals either before or after.
If you are feeling brave, you could try brush painting - I won't go into detail, as you can look it up if interested - takes a bit of patience, but gives a lovely thick finish that can be flatted and cut back to give a gorgeous finish. I've done bikes and cars with coach paints, a friend restores stagecoaches/horse drawn carriages and his results are fantastic.
Finally, I'd advise asking around at car and bike meets - a mate had his Shovelhead recently sprayed in a single metallic blue with Harley logos. Twin tanks and front and rear mudguards came to about £300.
A proper mask for painting is advised and should be part of every small workshop. I know there will be people who may argue
that they are perfectly fine without one and many youtube videos show happy folks painting away without any type of protection, I did many times too. But the 2K stuff is really awful and could ruin your lungs. Same goes for any proper primer. The point is: If you do this in a shed, you should vent the shed really really well when not using a mask. This will probably make painting more difficult. It will blow dust particles and everything that floats in the air onto your work. Heating will also be a problem as mentioned. 15 degrees should be the minimum.
I'd go for good half mask, 3m for example and only little ventilation while painting. It's usually short stints when you apply paint, let it dry without standing around in the fumes, then return for your next coat and by the time you return, the worst fumes should be gone anyway. An hour after you have finished everything, there should be no problem with fully venting and not having stuff stick to your paintjob.
I did try watering the floor, but haven't seen a huge advantage in paint quality. Rattle cans don't really kick up much dirt in the air as paint guns do. Better to take a vaccuum with a brush and clean your area rather well.
that they are perfectly fine without one and many youtube videos show happy folks painting away without any type of protection, I did many times too. But the 2K stuff is really awful and could ruin your lungs. Same goes for any proper primer. The point is: If you do this in a shed, you should vent the shed really really well when not using a mask. This will probably make painting more difficult. It will blow dust particles and everything that floats in the air onto your work. Heating will also be a problem as mentioned. 15 degrees should be the minimum.
I'd go for good half mask, 3m for example and only little ventilation while painting. It's usually short stints when you apply paint, let it dry without standing around in the fumes, then return for your next coat and by the time you return, the worst fumes should be gone anyway. An hour after you have finished everything, there should be no problem with fully venting and not having stuff stick to your paintjob.
I did try watering the floor, but haven't seen a huge advantage in paint quality. Rattle cans don't really kick up much dirt in the air as paint guns do. Better to take a vaccuum with a brush and clean your area rather well.
Put up as many lights as you can find and lay out your parts in a way, where you can walk around them easily. If you hang them on your ceiling, make sure to use clean wires, as ropes may "rain" down dirt on your work.
I have painted some parts recently to change colour or to fix scratches by sanding them down lightly and redoing the paint.
Usually no problems with that. If your new base paint sticks to the old paint, the 2K clear will stick to your other applied layers 100%.
It's usually a good foundation for repaint anyway, if not very recently repainted with poor quality paint. Try cleaning your parts with a degreaser and a clean cloth, if it doesn't rub of, you're good to go.
Bare metal and plastic usually needs primer. You may get away with coarse bare metal and no primer, but plastic will almost always make spots, where the paint won't stick no matter how much paint you apply. Rattle can primer I found almost always rubbish. 2K epoxy is great, but expensive in cans. And you need to use up your 2K paint in one go, the clear paint too, so once you start, you shouldn't run out in the middle of your work.
Last clear coat layer needs to be thick enough to avoid that orange peel look, but thin enough to avoid running. Try to see how long you can apply the paint till it starts running on a demo piece. Memorize when it's too much and don't stay on the same spot too long.
Easier to buff a matte finish with small imperfections than removing tears.
I have painted some parts recently to change colour or to fix scratches by sanding them down lightly and redoing the paint.
Usually no problems with that. If your new base paint sticks to the old paint, the 2K clear will stick to your other applied layers 100%.
It's usually a good foundation for repaint anyway, if not very recently repainted with poor quality paint. Try cleaning your parts with a degreaser and a clean cloth, if it doesn't rub of, you're good to go.
Bare metal and plastic usually needs primer. You may get away with coarse bare metal and no primer, but plastic will almost always make spots, where the paint won't stick no matter how much paint you apply. Rattle can primer I found almost always rubbish. 2K epoxy is great, but expensive in cans. And you need to use up your 2K paint in one go, the clear paint too, so once you start, you shouldn't run out in the middle of your work.
Last clear coat layer needs to be thick enough to avoid that orange peel look, but thin enough to avoid running. Try to see how long you can apply the paint till it starts running on a demo piece. Memorize when it's too much and don't stay on the same spot too long.
Easier to buff a matte finish with small imperfections than removing tears.
And to really boost my extreme post count and annoy the tl:dr crowd:
Pinstriping should be done with a special brush and paint, It's beautiful when you have that skill and a quick process compared to the time you spend painting stuff from scratch, but I wouldn't attempt it myself without practicing a lot or at least using a thin tape line to help as guide. I don't need wonky DIY stripes on that bike after wasting so much time painting it.
I will do 24k gold leaf stripes for this particular gas tank as pinstriping. So it's two guide lines, glue, application of gold leaf, brushing off the rest and sealing with clear coat. It's not period correct for very old bikes, but clearcoat usually isn't either.
I'd post some pictures of a decent rattle can paint job I've done on my Buell wheels, but can't get the picture upload to work.
Original paint/powdercoat as primer, metallic silver rattle can base, couple coats of translucent turn signal paint and 2K clear with a spray gun. Still look great after 3 years and regular use. Very good match to the original orange paint effect.
Pinstriping should be done with a special brush and paint, It's beautiful when you have that skill and a quick process compared to the time you spend painting stuff from scratch, but I wouldn't attempt it myself without practicing a lot or at least using a thin tape line to help as guide. I don't need wonky DIY stripes on that bike after wasting so much time painting it.
I will do 24k gold leaf stripes for this particular gas tank as pinstriping. So it's two guide lines, glue, application of gold leaf, brushing off the rest and sealing with clear coat. It's not period correct for very old bikes, but clearcoat usually isn't either.
I'd post some pictures of a decent rattle can paint job I've done on my Buell wheels, but can't get the picture upload to work.
Original paint/powdercoat as primer, metallic silver rattle can base, couple coats of translucent turn signal paint and 2K clear with a spray gun. Still look great after 3 years and regular use. Very good match to the original orange paint effect.
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