Which Chain and Sprocket??
Which Chain and Sprocket??
Author
Discussion

chilli

Original Poster:

17,320 posts

259 months

Thursday 8th September 2005
quotequote all
I'm looking for a new chain and rear sprocket for my 1999 GSXR600. Seen a couple on ebay, but there are different types at different prices. Im a new boy on the bike, so won't be doing track days (just yet)and dont wanna break any speed records, it's just the old ones are dirty, clogged up with cr*p, and are generally worn!
Can anyone recommend a replacement type? I've seen them range from £65 upwards.

Cheers,

Chilli.

Mad Dave

7,158 posts

286 months

Thursday 8th September 2005
quotequote all
Speak to Busters Accessories

www.busters-accessories.co.uk

Mucho cheapness.

I've just had to put a new chain on mine - X ring Gold and it came in at £142 including fitting!

Vitesse39

731 posts

271 months

Thursday 8th September 2005
quotequote all

I just go to Busters on the internet and get a chain and F & R sprocket set from them. Get an X ring chain as it will last longer but if you phone them up to order they will keep you right any way.

Do change front sprocket aswell, but the nut holding it on may be very tight, so you may need an assistant to put foot on rear brake while you undo the nut, probably with a breaker bar and socket.

You'll also need to find out the torque setting for redoing the nut.

all the best

fergus

6,430 posts

298 months

Thursday 8th September 2005
quotequote all
make sure you fit the lock tab on the front output shaft after fitting a new sprocket. Seen a few fly off at trackdays, etc, with the resulting mess the chain makes as it locks up....

An impact wrench will buzz the nut holding the sprocket off in a couple of seconds.

Make sure you get the correct 'pitch' chain. I/e/ you don't want a 520 race chain. Prob 530 or 532. Check with a dealer than buy from elsewhere. Also don't get a split link chain, but buy one with a side plate that needs pressing into place. A lot stronger and less likely to fail.

chilli

Original Poster:

17,320 posts

259 months

Friday 9th September 2005
quotequote all
All,
Many thanks for your advice........However, I doubt I'll even get my hands dirty. I mean, what is a "front output shaft"??!! I can barely recognise the chain!!

Cheers.

Vitesse39

731 posts

271 months

Friday 9th September 2005
quotequote all
chilli said:
All,
Many thanks for your advice........However, I doubt I'll even get my hands dirty. I mean, what is a "front output shaft"??!! I can barely recognise the chain!!

Cheers.


After you see how much they charge to do the job for you, you my change your mind

chilli

Original Poster:

17,320 posts

259 months

Friday 9th September 2005
quotequote all
Vitesse39 said:

chilli said:
All,
Many thanks for your advice........However, I doubt I'll even get my hands dirty. I mean, what is a "front output shaft"??!! I can barely recognise the chain!!

Cheers.



After you see how much they charge to do the job for you, you my change your mind


Good call, I mean how difficult can it be. What kind of tools would I need?

Vitesse39

731 posts

271 months

Friday 9th September 2005
quotequote all
chilli said:

Vitesse39 said:


chilli said:
All,
Many thanks for your advice........However, I doubt I'll even get my hands dirty. I mean, what is a "front output shaft"??!! I can barely recognise the chain!!

Cheers.




After you see how much they charge to do the job for you, you my change your mind



Good call, I mean how difficult can it be. What kind of tools would I need?


Rear paddock stand (get one anyway cause it makes so many jobs so much easier, even just lubing the chain),
socket set and combination spanners for axle nut and chain tension adjusters and the sprocket nuts. You'll need a 'breaker bar' (just a long bar for the socket set, get a decent length one) to undo the front sprocket nut and a socket torque wrench to do things up again. You'll also need a normal and a Needle Nose pair of pliers for the clip on the chain link *Do make sure this clip goes on open end trailing so it can't come off*

I don't usually promote Haynes manuals, but it will give you all the torque settings for putting it all back together again.

I know this might sound alot but when you think of how many times you will use them for different jobs and how much a garage would charge you each time, it pays for itself within 2 jobs.
that's how I persuaded the wife anyway

1 tip I can give you now, (as I've just had to do it) is slacken off the front sprocket nut before you remove the chain or rear wheel. You'll need it on to get someone else to stand on the rear break while you undo the nut as it will be very tight.

All the best mate

chilli

Original Poster:

17,320 posts

259 months

Friday 9th September 2005
quotequote all
Quality advice, many thanks. Weekend after this one seems to be the date!!
I'l start collectiong the tools!!

Thanks agian, much appreciated.

Cheers.

fergus

6,430 posts

298 months

Friday 9th September 2005
quotequote all
Vitesse39 said:

You'll also need a normal and a Needle Nose pair of pliers for the clip on the chain link *Do make sure this clip goes on open end trailing so it can't come off*


I wouldn't recommend a chain with a 'split link' on a 600. Get a proper link instead. This however, will either require a chain breaking tool (which also allows you to press the plate on and flatten the link heads), or you'll need a deadweight (i.e. the head of a lump hammer) to place on the opposing side of the chain whilst you use a ball pein (round head) hammer to flatten the end of the links down to hold the side plate in place. Not difficult. If the chain doesn't currently have a link you can flip off with pliers, you may need to get an anglegrinder and take the heads off the rivets holding one of the current side plates on. You can then slide the rest of the link out and split the chain.

Tip. Use the old link to attach the old chain to the new one to feed it over the front sprocket.

Good luck.