Discussion
whats the general view on running in? I'm finding it v difficult to stick to 4500 rpm ( which equates to about 57 mph on a ZX 6R) not least because you're like a mobile chicane on short stretches of dual carriageway...no-one else is travelling at that speed!
several hundred miles at no more than 57 is not a pleasant prospect
several hundred miles at no more than 57 is not a pleasant prospect
From another thread:
Interesting reading.
veetwin said:
Don't take it easy running it in, thrash it right from the start. Just avoid snatchy loading of the engine. Be smooth with throttle and you should be good to take it up to 13000 minimum. Ignore the manual.
Check out:
www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Interesting reading.
Make sure the factory haven't filled it with synthetic oil on the production line (as per modern cars). The rings need to bed into the bores, and typically glaze if synthetic oil is used, which means that a good seal is nver formed. Result - the bike is down on power (slightly) and will always use a bit of oil. Give it 100 miles of steady riding, then ride it normally - thrash it! Change the oil for the best fully synth you can get after 500 miles or so.
With modern bikes (& cars) the manufacturing tolerances are so tight that engines almost don't need running in, other than to knock flat spots off various parts and heat cycle things. How do you think people are now getting engines off the production line with 1000cc and 180 flywheel horse power. A few years ago, that would have taken some fairly serious blueprinting/tuning work to achieve.
I reckon as long as you've given it a steady 100 miles or so, on a crap mineral based oil, you can then thrash it for the next 200-300 on the same oil, then drop it for some synth stuff. Also, no point in telling the ECU to go to sleep if it's an adaptive type (as per some ducatis) by riding like an old lady.... If you run these things in *too* carefully, they end up burning oil.
I reckon as long as you've given it a steady 100 miles or so, on a crap mineral based oil, you can then thrash it for the next 200-300 on the same oil, then drop it for some synth stuff. Also, no point in telling the ECU to go to sleep if it's an adaptive type (as per some ducatis) by riding like an old lady.... If you run these things in *too* carefully, they end up burning oil.
After a damn good thrashing using bedding in mineral oil for the first 600 miles the CBR1000RR is then replenished with semi-synthetic oil (fully synth is never used throughout the life of the bike I have been told) I believe that this helps lube to cling to the higher end of the engine (cams, etc.) on re-starting the bike. Today's semi-synth oils are developed beyond general use expectations. I asked about track day use where the bike would be used at high revs for prolonged periods and the makeup of the oil (Rockoil Guardian) well exceeds the lubrication demands.
Just don't bog the engine down or load it at low revs.
Just don't bog the engine down or load it at low revs.
veetwin said:
After a damn good thrashing using bedding in mineral oil for the first 600 miles the CBR1000RR is then replenished with semi-synthetic oil (fully synth is never used throughout the life of the bike I have been told) I believe that this helps lube to cling to the higher end of the engine (cams, etc.) on re-starting the bike. Today's semi-synth oils are developed beyond general use expectations. I asked about track day use where the bike would be used at high revs for prolonged periods and the makeup of the oil (Rockoil Guardian) well exceeds the lubrication demands.
Just don't bog the engine down or load it at low revs.
After a damn good thrashing???? It's called 'running in' not 'running it into the ground'
I recommend using it to about 75% max revs, but not with wide open throttle, just let the revs rise on lower loads, without bogging and vary the loads a lot, not sticking at the same speed for miles. And also what the others say; don't use synthetic for running in, the owners manual and dealer should tell you what to use, if they have any clue what they are on about. If they don't buy your bike elsewhere.
The bike's engine is run on a hot test machine post final assembly at the full rev range for extended periods before being built into the bike. These are not fekin Matchless 250 engines. They are high toleranced near race spec engines. They will be happy to be thrashed out of the box. Take it easy and you will find that the bike will USE more oil. I used mine to the full after about 100 miles and it doesn't drink a drop. Bed those rings in guys, don't be afraid.
veetwin said:
The bike's engine is run on a hot test machine post final assembly at the full rev range for extended periods before being built into the bike. These are not fekin Matchless 250 engines. They are high toleranced near race spec engines. They will be happy to be thrashed out of the box. Take it easy and you will find that the bike will USE more oil. I used mine to the full after about 100 miles and it doesn't drink a drop. Bed those rings in guys, don't be afraid.
I stand corrected, times have changed. Just thrash the knackers off it and take it back to the dealers for the correct service at the correct time and he will install the correct engine oil for the mileage you've done. Biking couldn't get any easier.
>> Edited by morrisman on Sunday 12th March 11:15
I used to work for a certain large plant manufacturer in the Midlands. Once the engines had all their fluids they were started and idled for about a minute. Then they were reved to max and the hydraulics were moved to maximum flow. After that the transmissions were stalled in the same way. Think top gear with the handbrake on with all the power on the torque converter. Occasionally engines went bang but that's what the tests were for. It makes me laugh when manufacturers do these tests then tell customers to take it really easy to start with.
Basically being gentle with a new engine will just polish the bores, make it burn oil and reduce its power. On a bike I'd use mineral oil and change it every 60 miles for the first 500 miles. Ride the bike as normal i.e like you stole it All MHO of course.
Edited because I can't spell.
>> Edited by hyena on Sunday 12th March 14:34
Basically being gentle with a new engine will just polish the bores, make it burn oil and reduce its power. On a bike I'd use mineral oil and change it every 60 miles for the first 500 miles. Ride the bike as normal i.e like you stole it
All MHO of course. Edited because I can't spell.
>> Edited by hyena on Sunday 12th March 14:34
I didn't work at Longbridge. When I say heavy plant I really mean diggers. There are only two real manufacturers, one rhymes with rat and one doesn't. I'm not going to say which one I worked at as I don't want the lawyers at my door!
Before that I worked as a general dogs body at a bike shop. One of my jobs was to pdi the new bikes. Basically uncrating, bolting together and cleaning brand new bikes. The bikes then went on a test ride. Once the oil was warm the engines were absolutely nailed. I think the idea behind running in is to stop new owners from hurting themselves. One other thing imo 600 miles to first oil change is far too long. Just think of all the bits of swarf and rubbish being rammed around your engine.
Before that I worked as a general dogs body at a bike shop. One of my jobs was to pdi the new bikes. Basically uncrating, bolting together and cleaning brand new bikes. The bikes then went on a test ride. Once the oil was warm the engines were absolutely nailed. I think the idea behind running in is to stop new owners from hurting themselves. One other thing imo 600 miles to first oil change is far too long. Just think of all the bits of swarf and rubbish being rammed around your engine.
hyena said:
I used to work for a certain large plant manufacturer in the Midlands. Once the engines had all their fluids they were started and idled for about a minute. Then they were reved to max and the hydraulics were moved to maximum flow. After that the transmissions were stalled in the same way. Think top gear with the handbrake on with all the power on the torque converter. Occasionally engines went bang but that's what the tests were for. It makes me laugh when manufacturers do these tests then tell customers to take it really easy to start with.
Basically being gentle with a new engine will just polish the bores, make it burn oil and reduce its power. On a bike I'd use mineral oil and change it every 60 miles for the first 500 miles. Ride the bike as normal i.e like you stole it
Edited because I can't spell.
>> Edited by hyena on Sunday 12th March 14:34
Diesel engines? These DO have to be run hard from the start. At work we start up a rebuilt diesel and put it on full load as soon as it has warmed up and been tested for pressure, leaks, cooling etc.
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