Braking, changing down and "bliping the throttle"
Braking, changing down and "bliping the throttle"
Author
Discussion

chilli

Original Poster:

17,320 posts

258 months

Tuesday 11th July 2006
quotequote all
After watching Honest John's video, it got me thinking....How the hell do you do it? Surely when you "blip" the throttle, the braking becomes less effective? I appreciate the importance of keeping the revs up, and can do it quite successfully whilst not braking, but can't seem to grasp it whilst braking...Is it to do with only braking with a couple of fingers or something?
As you can imagine, having the back sliding about cause im changing down with 1500revs isn't ideal!!!

Cheers.

r5gttgaz

7,897 posts

242 months

Tuesday 11th July 2006
quotequote all
Brake with a couple of fingers, this should be more that enought whilst using the rest of the hand to spin the throttle. Its alot easier if you just practice on a straight bit of road before commiting yourself to any bends.

omitchell

19,761 posts

257 months

Tuesday 11th July 2006
quotequote all
Yes it does make the braking less effective for the slight moment after you let the clutch back in, it also stops the rear wheel locking up so in the grand scheme of things it is hardly effective on the overall deceleration process

Carrera2

8,352 posts

254 months

Tuesday 11th July 2006
quotequote all
omitchell said:
Yes it does make the braking less effective for the slight moment after you let the clutch back in, it also stops the rear wheel locking up so in the grand scheme of things it is hardly effective on the overall deceleration process


You don't get maximum braking with a locked wheel though. You get it just before the tyre slips and this method is intended to stop the wheel locking up.

black-k1

12,653 posts

251 months

Tuesday 11th July 2006
quotequote all
It’s not the number of fingers on the brake lever that makes this technique work but the use of the fingers and thump/heel of the hand to do separate things.

Best way to learn the technique is to find a long straight quiet stretch of road then build up a bit of speed. Pull in the clutch so you are coasting then very gently apply the front brake. (You only want a very little front brake – only just enough to ensure that the pads are in contact with the disk.) Now, practice using your thumb/heel of your hand/wrist to blip the throttle without changing the amount of braking on the front wheel and without releasing the clutch. You’ll know you are getting it right as the bike will continue it’s gentle deceleration without any ‘jerkiness’ while the engine makes that nice ‘vroom vroom’ sound.

Do this a few times and as you master it try increasing the pressure on the brake lever. Once you have this fully mastered then add in the down change and the release of the clutch. Still keep things slow in order to ensure that everything is done in the right order. It won’t be very long at all before you’re changing down like a world class GP rider!


Edited by black-k1 on Tuesday 11th July 13:34

r5gttgaz

7,897 posts

242 months

Tuesday 11th July 2006
quotequote all
Or change down one gear more than usual and try to control the rear slide with the clutch.

hobo

6,359 posts

268 months

Tuesday 11th July 2006
quotequote all
Chilli. You are aware the R6 has a slipper clutch which sorts a lot out for you, aren't you ?

Its only seems in 1st & 2nd when the back want to fishtail all over the place if you don't blip the throttle as well (or just change it straight down instantly from say 4th/5th).

black-k1

12,653 posts

251 months

Tuesday 11th July 2006
quotequote all
omitchell said:
Yes it does make the braking less effective for the slight moment after you let the clutch back in, it also stops the rear wheel locking up so in the grand scheme of things it is hardly effective on the overall deceleration process


Sorry, I disagree. I suggest you try the following to show the difference it makes:

Get onto a straight stretch of road and get up to a set speed then brake as hard as you can using the rear brake only, from a given point, noting where the bike comes to a stop. Do this using

1. rear brake and clutch out to last minute, no change of gear.
2. rear brake and clutch in, no change of gear.
3. rear brake and down shifting with no ‘blip’
4. rear brake and down shifting with throttle ‘blip’

Not only will number 4 give you the shorter stopping distance (though not by much I accept) it will also give you the most controlled stop. Add in some wet/slippery tarmac and the extra control will be very welcome.

chilli

Original Poster:

17,320 posts

258 months

Tuesday 11th July 2006
quotequote all
hobo said:
Chilli. You are aware the R6 has a slipper clutch which sorts a lot out for you, aren't you ?

Its only seems in 1st & 2nd when the back want to fishtail all over the place if you don't blip the throttle as well (or just change it straight down instantly from say 4th/5th).



To be honest....No, I didn't! I just know that not only does the back slip about a bit (prob only a tiny, tiny bit but feels a lot more) but it doesn't make for smooth braking, as it's very "jerky". Am I making sense??!!

julianb

311 posts

236 months

Tuesday 11th July 2006
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I find it more of a twitch with the clutch and throttle, rather than a very deliberate act. Give it some time, it'll come.


J.

omitchell

19,761 posts

257 months

Tuesday 11th July 2006
quotequote all
black-k1 said:
omitchell said:
Yes it does make the braking less effective for the slight moment after you let the clutch back in, it also stops the rear wheel locking up so in the grand scheme of things it is hardly effective on the overall deceleration process


Sorry, I disagree. I suggest you try the following to show the difference it makes:

Get onto a straight stretch of road and get up to a set speed then brake as hard as you can using the rear brake only, from a given point, noting where the bike comes to a stop. Do this using

1. rear brake and clutch out to last minute, no change of gear.
2. rear brake and clutch in, no change of gear.
3. rear brake and down shifting with no ‘blip’
4. rear brake and down shifting with throttle ‘blip’

Not only will number 4 give you the shorter stopping distance (though not by much I accept) it will also give you the most controlled stop. Add in some wet/slippery tarmac and the extra control will be very welcome.


ah ok, what i was trying to say is that the blip of the throttle wouldn't increase the stopping distance or decrease the effectiveness of the brakes compared to not blipping

julianb

311 posts

236 months

Tuesday 11th July 2006
quotequote all
Jeez,

I just re-read the posts. No wonder it took me ages to master it. I'm braking with the front as well as rear, and changing down, blipping the throttle. Now that's a juggling act!

chilli

Original Poster:

17,320 posts

258 months

Tuesday 11th July 2006
quotequote all
julianb said:
Jeez,

I just re-read the posts. No wonder it took me ages to master it. I'm braking with the front as well as rear, and changing down, blipping the throttle. Now that's a juggling act!


THAT's IT......That's exactly what I'm trying to do!!!!!!

r5gttgaz

7,897 posts

242 months

Tuesday 11th July 2006
quotequote all
Dont use the rear brake, you should be braking so hard the rear is just hovering on the surface.

black-k1

12,653 posts

251 months

Tuesday 11th July 2006
quotequote all
r5gttgaz said:
Dont use the rear brake, you should be braking so hard the rear is just hovering on the surface.


Hmmmm, that old chestnut again!

Using the front brake only is not a good routine to adopt when riding on the road. (Track is a different matter).

Check out the brake test I describe about half way down page one of this thread

www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?t=240117

then try it for yourself. Make sure you use a good dry stretch of tarmac and I'll still put money on the fact that the best stopping distance will involve use of the rear brake. The less grip a surface gives the more important the rear brake is.