Which chain breaker/riveter ?

[Steve_T]

I can't find mine, so am faced with acquiring another. There seems to be a miriad of choices, but does anyone have one that they think is good quality and easy to use? The last one I bought was just ok, it did the job, but it was unstable in use because you put both spanners on the same side.

Thanks all,

Steve.

[dern]

I have the 50 quid 'heavy duty' (hollow laugh) type and it's utterly crap.

To break the chain I use an angle grinder with a thin metal cutting disc.

To push the link together I use a sturdy g-clamp with appropriately shaped bits of metal that I made.

To fatten the end of the pins once the link is together I use the rounded end of a ball-pein hammer and put a lump hammer on the other side of the chain to act as an anvil. I fatten out the ends of the pins (happens naturally with the pins with the hollowed ends) while checking that the link isn't starting to bind.

With this I get much better results than the 'special' tool and I've injured myself less.

Regards,

Mark

Edited by dern on Monday 26th November 11:37

[Steve_T]

Not a big surprise to hear that Mark. I feel the same way about what I used before, but don't have the time to fabricate anything at the moment. I have spoken to the dealer I bought my SV from and my usual supplier of after market bits. Both of them confirmed that the stuff the punters use and tools they use in the workshop are vastly different in price and quality - £40-£60 on the highstreet plays £220 for the AFAM workshop tool or £400 for the RK workshop tool for instance. Too much for me, so looks like I'll have to see if there's a way to avoid buying a Motrax jobbie.

Steve.

[dern]

I would say the only thing you need to fabricate would be a small plate that you could place on top of the link plate which allowed you to push the link plate on to the pins. This could be as simple as a couple of link plates from the old chain with the holes drilled out by 1mm if you see what I mean. You could then place the new link plate on the pins with the two modified link plates on top of that and use your sturdy g-glamp (or even a small pillar drill vice) and then wind it all together. Does that make sense?

[catso]

I bought a £50 breaker/riveter it was crap & broke the first time I used it, so I went back to the old grinder & G clamp with a ball bearing to spread the pin.

[dern]

catso said:

G clamp with a ball bearing to spread the pin

That's a clever idea.

[catso]

dern said:

catso said:

G clamp with a ball bearing to spread the pin

That's a clever idea.

Simple yet effective

[phillvr6]

Steve,
Am I right in guessing you are v2burbl on the Aprilia Forum?

[Steve_T]

Yes I am Phil.

[Wedg1e]

I solved the problem by simply buying a shaftie

[_Dave_]

All of this splitting chains nonsense! I bought a 'heavy duty' tool a couple of years ago, it was crap! Now I buy endless chains and take the swingarm off the bike, its only 5 bolts and it gives you a good opportunity to grease and check all the pivots/bearings, did the Fazer last night in under an hour

[dern]

_Dave_ said:

All of this splitting chains nonsense! I bought a 'heavy duty' tool a couple of years ago, it was crap! Now I buy endless chains and take the swingarm off the bike, its only 5 bolts and it gives you a good opportunity to grease and check all the pivots/bearings, did the Fazer last night in under an hour

Got a center stand then

Edited by dern on Tuesday 27th November 08:05

[_Dave_]

dern said:

Got a center stand then

On the Fazer yes, on the Exup no! for that I use a couple of axle stands under the pegs or you could use an abba stand, but I´m too tight to buy one!

Like this.....

Edited by _Dave_ on Tuesday 27th November 09:13

[Steve_T]

Abba stand goes through the swinger pivots, so you need another approach. How stable is the bike supported on the pegs? Is there enough width to keep things stable?

[Hooli]

last time i had to lift the rear without a center stand i just put a trolley jack under the engine. tips the bike towards the front/sidestand. didnt seem likely to fall over just an odd angle to work at.
mine should have a center stand but it was removed to fit the akro pipe & not kept with the bike when i brought it.

[_Dave_]

It is very stable on the pegs, well bottom of the frame to be exact, its never fallen off in 10 years of doing it and to be honest I´ve never had a 'moment' doing it either, you can knock a bike of any type of stand if you are clumsy enough though

Ideally you need a hand to get it on the stands, tip bike towards you, get friend/wife/child to put stand under one side, push up onto stand, lean over slightly other way and fit other stand, as you can see in the pic I put a thin bit of mdf under 1 side as its slightly different heights either side.

I take no responsibility for anybody trying this and dropping their bike onto a nice hard stand! it is easy though!

Have done the trolly jack under engine trick before now too, it is a wierd angle to work at as mentioned.

Edited by _Dave_ on Tuesday 27th November 09:06

[dern]

I tried this on the blade and couldn't get it in a position I felt it was stable enough. If I stick a jack under the engine the front wheel lifts and it cants over to a weird angle. Now I have the engine crane I simply lift the whole bike off the floor when I want to do stuff like that. I wouldn't bother just to do the chain though.

[Steve_T]

The RK tool I ordered turned up yesterday and I have to say it was very easy to use. I think I'm going to have to take the swinger off at some stage though. The amount of crud hidden behind the scenes is quite staggering, the crud being a combination of chain lube and grit picked up from the road. Does anyone have a way around this problem - is chain wax any better for instance?

Steve.

[dern]

Steve_T said:

The RK tool I ordered turned up yesterday and I have to say it was very easy to use. I think I'm going to have to take the swinger off at some stage though. The amount of crud hidden behind the scenes is quite staggering, the crud being a combination of chain lube and grit picked up from the road. Does anyone have a way around this problem - is chain wax any better for instance?

Not really. I used to use it and the gunk still built up. I've not had it build up around the swing arm but behind the sprocket cover as I guess the design of the bikes is different. Getting the swingarm off isn't a big job if you can support the bike and have the tools and greasing the pivots is a good plan anyway.

The only way I found to reduce the build up of the gunk was to turn the scottoiler up a bit but then the oil loaded with all that shite just dripped on the floor and made a mess of the garage.

Have you got a link to the tool you decided to buy in the end?

Edited by dern on Wednesday 28th November 10:13

[Steve_T]

It's at the bottom of this page. The UCT4060. With postage it was ~ £55, so not too bad. Delivery was quick too.

Edited by Steve_T on Wednesday 28th November 10:20