HID Xeon headlights any good?
Discussion
I've been searching the forum and there seems a mixed view on the benefits hassles with converting lights. I'm thinking of converting the ones on my GSXR600 k6. Any views? are they really as easy as the manufacturers claim (generally if they say takes 30mins your looking a good couple of hours)? Do they actually damage the plastic headlight? what happens at MOT time?
I have a HID upgrade on my Divvy 900.
Standard bulb = Dangerous...really dangerous.
Phillips +80% = A tad better but you still couldn't see where you're going when facing on-coming traffic.
Bi-Xenon HID = Holy Macaroni Batman...I can see...Why didn't I do this years ago!!
I've been running with a £30 Bi-Xenon HID kit (which gives HID light on dipped and full beam by moving the element inside a reflector) from http://stores.ebay.co.uk/diane-shop all winter and it's been 100% reliable and totally transformed my nighttime riding. Brilliant.
You need to find somewhere to hide the transformer box, and in my case with H4 bulbs, the control box for the dim/dip function. Not a problem with faired bikes...naked ones could prove tricky I guess. You could always extend the control box wiring to under the seat I guess.
There is a lot of BS doing the rounds about HID kits...
- Will they fail the MOT = Mine didn't. It sailed through no questions asked.
- Will they dazzle on-coming traffic = Not if properly adjusted. That said they are a LOT brighter than standard bulbs so I guess some degree of discomfort is likely for on-coming traffic. I've never been flashed by on-coming traffic though. They're best fitted to headlights with pre-focus headlights to be honest.
- They're illegal if they don't have self levellers and washers = This only applies to new vehicles. There is no legislation regarding these kits (yet). I was stopped by the BiB about 2 weeks ago for a minor incident and my headlight never entered the conversation, despite them looking over my bike.
- They run hotter than filament bulbs and will melt your wiring = Complete nonsense. They actually run a lot cooler and consume less power (35 watts). However - During start up mine hits 8 amps (96 watts) in order to strike the arc, but then drops to 3 amps after a couple of minutes. For reference an 55w Halogen bulbs consumes 4.6 amps. Just make sure you upgrade the headlight fuse to 15 amps and you should be fine.
Do it - you wont regret it.
HTH
Standard bulb = Dangerous...really dangerous.
Phillips +80% = A tad better but you still couldn't see where you're going when facing on-coming traffic.
Bi-Xenon HID = Holy Macaroni Batman...I can see...Why didn't I do this years ago!!
I've been running with a £30 Bi-Xenon HID kit (which gives HID light on dipped and full beam by moving the element inside a reflector) from http://stores.ebay.co.uk/diane-shop all winter and it's been 100% reliable and totally transformed my nighttime riding. Brilliant.
You need to find somewhere to hide the transformer box, and in my case with H4 bulbs, the control box for the dim/dip function. Not a problem with faired bikes...naked ones could prove tricky I guess. You could always extend the control box wiring to under the seat I guess.
There is a lot of BS doing the rounds about HID kits...
- Will they fail the MOT = Mine didn't. It sailed through no questions asked.
- Will they dazzle on-coming traffic = Not if properly adjusted. That said they are a LOT brighter than standard bulbs so I guess some degree of discomfort is likely for on-coming traffic. I've never been flashed by on-coming traffic though. They're best fitted to headlights with pre-focus headlights to be honest.
- They're illegal if they don't have self levellers and washers = This only applies to new vehicles. There is no legislation regarding these kits (yet). I was stopped by the BiB about 2 weeks ago for a minor incident and my headlight never entered the conversation, despite them looking over my bike.
- They run hotter than filament bulbs and will melt your wiring = Complete nonsense. They actually run a lot cooler and consume less power (35 watts). However - During start up mine hits 8 amps (96 watts) in order to strike the arc, but then drops to 3 amps after a couple of minutes. For reference an 55w Halogen bulbs consumes 4.6 amps. Just make sure you upgrade the headlight fuse to 15 amps and you should be fine.
Do it - you wont regret it.
HTH
Edited by tfm on Thursday 10th January 10:36
Can only endorse what he said ^^^ Mine is just a HID dipped beam conversion and that's perfect, makes a massive difference, got mine from www.hids4u.co.uk
Busa_Rush said:
Can only endorse what he said ^^^ Mine is just a HID dipped beam conversion and that's perfect, makes a massive difference, got mine from www.hids4u.co.uk
Indeed, the dip beam on my 916 was crap but a HID conversion means I can actually see where I'm going now - at least twice as good and a lower power consumption to boot.Not done the high beam due to lighting-up speed being a little slow but have a 100w bulb in there instead.
v-twins said:
Scott W said:
Can only mirror tfm's thoughts! I have the kit on my K5 750 and it's superb!
I'm now looking at this for my 2002 SV650. H1 kit is 80 squids...Another myth about HID kits...Some kits are better than others. In my experience this is not the case. About 6 or 7 kits have passed through my grubby hands, which have come from different sources, and with massive price differences. But they've all been exactly the same, just with different labels and boxes. All the ones I've fitted, or helped to fit are still working 100% reliably to this day.
My recommendation is to go with the cheapest you can find and save your money for Beer.
tfm said:
v-twins said:
Scott W said:
Can only mirror tfm's thoughts! I have the kit on my K5 750 and it's superb!
I'm now looking at this for my 2002 SV650. H1 kit is 80 squids...Another myth about HID kits...Some kits are better than others. In my experience this is not the case. About 6 or 7 kits have passed through my grubby hands, which have come from different sources, and with massive price differences. But they've all been exactly the same, just with different labels and boxes. All the ones I've fitted, or helped to fit are still working 100% reliably to this day.
My recommendation is to go with the cheapest you can find and save your money for Beer.
v-twins said:
tfm said:
v-twins said:
Scott W said:
Can only mirror tfm's thoughts! I have the kit on my K5 750 and it's superb!
I'm now looking at this for my 2002 SV650. H1 kit is 80 squids...Another myth about HID kits...Some kits are better than others. In my experience this is not the case. About 6 or 7 kits have passed through my grubby hands, which have come from different sources, and with massive price differences. But they've all been exactly the same, just with different labels and boxes. All the ones I've fitted, or helped to fit are still working 100% reliably to this day.
My recommendation is to go with the cheapest you can find and save your money for Beer.
The kit itself is easy to fit (the hard part was just getting to the bulb on the Gixer!)and I have the ballast secured firmly to the radiator via cable ties as I had some loops on the radiator casing that was just ideal to use for this.
tfm said:
v-twins said:
[Another myth about HID kits...Some kits are better than others. In my experience this is not the case. .
never in my life have i heard so much bull.u pay 50 squids for a crappy ebay kit you get a crappy 50 quid ebay kit made for a tenner by some dodgy back street chinese bloke, you pay 80 for a kit with a proper warranty from a reputable source with eec/eu markings and you get a kit that will work and a promise that if something does happen they will be replaced.
i have tried several kits, also working for a manufacturer i know what is reccomended and what isnt...
Edited by castrolcraig on Friday 11th January 16:11
castrolcraig said:
never in my life have i heard so much bull.
u pay 50 squids for a crappy ebay kit you get a crappy 50 quid ebay kit made for a tenner by some dodgy back street chinese bloke, you pay 80 for a kit with a proper warranty from a reputable source with eec/eu markings and you get a kit that will work and a promise that if something does happen they will be replaced.
i have tried several kits, also working for a manufacturer i know what is reccomended and what isnt...
What's crappy about them?u pay 50 squids for a crappy ebay kit you get a crappy 50 quid ebay kit made for a tenner by some dodgy back street chinese bloke, you pay 80 for a kit with a proper warranty from a reputable source with eec/eu markings and you get a kit that will work and a promise that if something does happen they will be replaced.
i have tried several kits, also working for a manufacturer i know what is reccomended and what isnt...
I take it you're talking from experience?. Please enlighten us with what's recommended and what isn't and also the differences between a crappy £50 eBay kit and a kit costing £30 more.
The eBay seller I linked to above provide 2 years warranty and fall over themselfs to help you (Although their Engrish is quite comical)
They don't have any EU/EEC markings but then WTF do you want that for? None of these kits are E marked anyway.
Edited to add: Just looked at the kit I fitted to the car and it is E marked.
Edited by tfm on Friday 11th January 20:25
tfm said:
castrolcraig said:
never in my life have i heard so much bull.
u pay 50 squids for a crappy ebay kit you get a crappy 50 quid ebay kit made for a tenner by some dodgy back street chinese bloke, you pay 80 for a kit with a proper warranty from a reputable source with eec/eu markings and you get a kit that will work and a promise that if something does happen they will be replaced.
i have tried several kits, also working for a manufacturer i know what is reccomended and what isnt...
What's crappy about them?u pay 50 squids for a crappy ebay kit you get a crappy 50 quid ebay kit made for a tenner by some dodgy back street chinese bloke, you pay 80 for a kit with a proper warranty from a reputable source with eec/eu markings and you get a kit that will work and a promise that if something does happen they will be replaced.
i have tried several kits, also working for a manufacturer i know what is reccomended and what isnt...
I take it you're talking from experience?. Please enlighten us with what's recommended and what isn't and also the differences between a crappy £50 eBay kit and a kit costing £30 more.
The eBay seller I linked to above provide 2 years warranty and fall over themselfs to help you (Although their Engrish is quite comical)
They don't have any EU/EEC markings but then WTF do you want that for? None of these kits are E marked anyway.
Edited to add: Just looked at the kit I fitted to the car and it is E marked.
Edited by tfm on Friday 11th January 20:25
Silver993tt said:
If it's not E marked it's illegal. That's fine if you don't have an accident. If you do and it's serious it's exactly the sort of thing the insurance and police investigation will look for. That means you'll also have no insurance in such a situation which would be a disaster especially if someone else is hurt.
The insurance company would ALWAYS have to cover third party injury liability. They may then be able to come after the original insured person to recover their costs but they would have to prove that the lights not being E marked were fundamental to the cause of the accident.What is much more likely is that the insurance company would use it as a reason to weasel out of their fully comprehensive commitments and not pay the full value of the bike.
Edited by black-k1 on Friday 11th January 21:32
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