Front fork rebuild?
Discussion
My bike is now 14 years old and has never had any suspension work done to my knowledge.
The rear seems fine, only from a very short ride mind you, but the front feels a bit saggy. Like i'd hit the bumpstops if I braked very hard. As the bike is known for its front end, I was wondering on getting a fork rebuild as a preventative measure, bring it to its former glory.
So, what kind of price is this?
I'm a bit lardy at nigh on 17 stone.
Dave!
The rear seems fine, only from a very short ride mind you, but the front feels a bit saggy. Like i'd hit the bumpstops if I braked very hard. As the bike is known for its front end, I was wondering on getting a fork rebuild as a preventative measure, bring it to its former glory.
So, what kind of price is this?
I'm a bit lardy at nigh on 17 stone.
Dave!
Speak to either Maxton or Hagon; you can get their numbers in MCN.
I've used both before and like their "not trying to sell you something" advice.
After that long, the forks oil is going to be pretty snotty, so at the very least change it and put in some uprated springs for your size.
Back end, the shock will also be past it's best, but could be a cheap re-build and a new spring.
Allow about £200 if you are doing the stripdown yourself.
Also make sure all the rear linkeages move (strip and re-grease if possible).
It's amazing how much of a difference it can make from what you get used to, to what it should feel like!
I've used both before and like their "not trying to sell you something" advice.
After that long, the forks oil is going to be pretty snotty, so at the very least change it and put in some uprated springs for your size.
Back end, the shock will also be past it's best, but could be a cheap re-build and a new spring.
Allow about £200 if you are doing the stripdown yourself.
Also make sure all the rear linkeages move (strip and re-grease if possible).
It's amazing how much of a difference it can make from what you get used to, to what it should feel like!
Biker's Nemesis said:
A mate has just sent his K5 forks away to Maxton. He's been quoted £250, for re-valving, new springs and oil. Seals will be extra if they need changing.
Yours would be cheaper, without the re-valving.
Turn around at the moment is 4 - 6 weeks.
Interested in the result as I've thought about having my K6 done. If they make as much difference as it did on my R1 it's well worth it.Yours would be cheaper, without the re-valving.
Turn around at the moment is 4 - 6 weeks.
Reccomend these guys - http://www.kais-performance.co.uk/
IIRC cost me approx £60 per fork leg (RSVR ohlins)for new seals & oil.
IIRC cost me approx £60 per fork leg (RSVR ohlins)for new seals & oil.
I've used K-Tech, very good, reasonable pricing and quick turnround; http://www.k-tech.uk.com/
Can't believe I forgot to mention the bike haha
It's a 1994 ZXR750
I'm surprised the rebuild prices are that cheap to be honest, i'd want the seals done etc as I work away and would rather it was as new.
I had heard how the rears on these bikes was too hard but as i'm quite heavy it seemed fine, I am a very very novice rider though so my opinion counts for a little less than nothing haha.
I know about sag and droop on car suspension and setting the tension on the spring when sat on it, but I presume if I told these places how much I weigh and what the bike is used for they'd have a rough guide to get me sorted?
Dave!
It's a 1994 ZXR750
I'm surprised the rebuild prices are that cheap to be honest, i'd want the seals done etc as I work away and would rather it was as new.
I had heard how the rears on these bikes was too hard but as i'm quite heavy it seemed fine, I am a very very novice rider though so my opinion counts for a little less than nothing haha.
I know about sag and droop on car suspension and setting the tension on the spring when sat on it, but I presume if I told these places how much I weigh and what the bike is used for they'd have a rough guide to get me sorted?
Dave!
ZXR 750 always had excellent forks, so well worth spending a bit of cash to get them done right.
Back end has always been open for debate; as new they were very stiff, so some people said they were oversprung. I believe it was possible to get a different linkage for the back to adjust the rate (NWS maybe?)
However, as a fellow "gentleman of generous proportions" I always thought the back end was just right...
Incidentally, how are the front discs?
I found they took a hammering with the increased mass to stop and the confidence the forks gave me; by the time I hit 10,000 miles they were wafer thin (Just one more waffer thin mint, Mr Creosote...!).
Back end has always been open for debate; as new they were very stiff, so some people said they were oversprung. I believe it was possible to get a different linkage for the back to adjust the rate (NWS maybe?)
However, as a fellow "gentleman of generous proportions" I always thought the back end was just right...
Incidentally, how are the front discs?
I found they took a hammering with the increased mass to stop and the confidence the forks gave me; by the time I hit 10,000 miles they were wafer thin (Just one more waffer thin mint, Mr Creosote...!).
Edited by Rubin215 on Sunday 13th January 22:21
Rubin215 said:
ZXR 750 always had excellent forks, so well worth spending a bit of cash to get them done right.
Back end has always been open for debate; as new they were very stiff, so some people said they were oversprung. I believe it was possible to get a different linkage for the back to adjust the rate (NWS maybe?)
However, as a fellow "gentleman of generous proportions" I always thought the back end was just right...
Incidentally, how are the front discs?
I found they took a hammering with the increased mass to stop and the confidence the forks gave me; by the time I hit 10,000 miles they were wafer thin (Just one more waffer thin mint, Mr Creosote...!).
You're right about the linkage.Back end has always been open for debate; as new they were very stiff, so some people said they were oversprung. I believe it was possible to get a different linkage for the back to adjust the rate (NWS maybe?)
However, as a fellow "gentleman of generous proportions" I always thought the back end was just right...
Incidentally, how are the front discs?
I found they took a hammering with the increased mass to stop and the confidence the forks gave me; by the time I hit 10,000 miles they were wafer thin (Just one more waffer thin mint, Mr Creosote...!).
Edited by Rubin215 on Sunday 13th January 22:21
blade7 said:
Biker's Nemesis said:
A mate has just sent his K5 forks away to Maxton. He's been quoted £250, for re-valving, new springs and oil. Seals will be extra if they need changing.
Yours would be cheaper, without the re-valving.
Turn around at the moment is 4 - 6 weeks.
Interested in the result as I've thought about having my K6 done. If they make as much difference as it did on my R1 it's well worth it.Yours would be cheaper, without the re-valving.
Turn around at the moment is 4 - 6 weeks.
Rubin215 said:
ZXR 750 always had excellent forks, so well worth spending a bit of cash to get them done right.
Back end has always been open for debate; as new they were very stiff, so some people said they were oversprung. I believe it was possible to get a different linkage for the back to adjust the rate (NWS maybe?)
However, as a fellow "gentleman of generous proportions" I always thought the back end was just right...
Incidentally, how are the front discs?
I found they took a hammering with the increased mass to stop and the confidence the forks gave me; by the time I hit 10,000 miles they were wafer thin (Just one more waffer thin mint, Mr Creosote...!).
The bike has sintered pads in and to be fair, they are a bit crap, the discs look fine though to me, i've been told they are pretty crap brakes but they seem fine.Back end has always been open for debate; as new they were very stiff, so some people said they were oversprung. I believe it was possible to get a different linkage for the back to adjust the rate (NWS maybe?)
However, as a fellow "gentleman of generous proportions" I always thought the back end was just right...
Incidentally, how are the front discs?
I found they took a hammering with the increased mass to stop and the confidence the forks gave me; by the time I hit 10,000 miles they were wafer thin (Just one more waffer thin mint, Mr Creosote...!).
Edited by Rubin215 on Sunday 13th January 22:21
So, MOT, forks, big service, summer of fun!
Cheers guys!
Dave!
blade7 said:
Cheers. Or maybe I could buy a new R1,what's the verdict on yours.
I've only did a Thousand miles on it before I took it off the road for winter.It feels OK on the smooth stuff, but on the bumpy roads that I mainly use, it doesn't feel right. The suspension feels firm, but hit the bumpy stuff at speed it squats, the wallows it's way back up through it's suspension stroke.
I'll have a fiddle with it in the spring, set the sag, and take it from there.
Performance is much the same as the rest of them, but as a general package it's pretty much OK.
The brakes at first didn't seem that hot, but have bedded in nicely.
I'm nit picking to be honest.
Funny that, I wasn't that impressed with the brakes on my K6 when i bought it, I thought they would be a big improvement over my 99 R1 that still had it's original pads in. Likewise the suspension it used to run wide and bounce of all the bumps, seem to have sorted it now though.All down to setup maybe.
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