EBC Rotors!!!!
Discussion
Just found this post on the other site 
Brand new rotors, brand new Hawk pads, bedded properly....only ran 3 sessions (15 minutes each) at Road Atlanta last weekend before this happened.
Since my last post on this subject (when I was frustrated about getting only 2 weekends out of a set of cryo-treated rotors!) I added the porsche-style air deflectors to direct some air to 'em....but it didn't seem to do much at all. Temps were in the high 40's which if there was ANY air flow, should have been decent for cooling.
These rotors clearly suck. They are EBC and have those nice little dimples which, as you can see, provide a nice crack propagation point. However, even crappy rotors should last longer than this, right?
Here are some pix....(and yes, I changed rotors as soon as they cracked).
Do any of you guys who do road courses have any pix of the ducting systems you use/ Jon B, do you have any pix of the systems you sell? This is really pissing me off....I should get more than 45 minutes out of a set of rotors....
Brand new rotors, brand new Hawk pads, bedded properly....only ran 3 sessions (15 minutes each) at Road Atlanta last weekend before this happened.
Since my last post on this subject (when I was frustrated about getting only 2 weekends out of a set of cryo-treated rotors!) I added the porsche-style air deflectors to direct some air to 'em....but it didn't seem to do much at all. Temps were in the high 40's which if there was ANY air flow, should have been decent for cooling.
These rotors clearly suck. They are EBC and have those nice little dimples which, as you can see, provide a nice crack propagation point. However, even crappy rotors should last longer than this, right?
Here are some pix....(and yes, I changed rotors as soon as they cracked).
Do any of you guys who do road courses have any pix of the ducting systems you use/ Jon B, do you have any pix of the systems you sell? This is really pissing me off....I should get more than 45 minutes out of a set of rotors....
If I remember correctly, RT Daves got these rotors fitted? If he decides to do any track days, it might be something to watch out for! Looking at those pics two things come to mind, either:-
1) they are a lot older than he says they are
2) they have been heavily abused.
I suspect both, but assuming they were new, then they very much look like they have been cooked good and proper. The scoring on the disk looks like the hawk pads are pretty aggressive and the discolouration and oxidation in the vanes between disks looks like they have been glowing at some point. I doubt that EBC intended their disks to be used for full on racing, track days maybe and probably then only with their EBC red pads.
I suspect the the guy is pretty hard on brakes at the best of times as he was also complaining that whatever he had before was only lasting two weekends.
1) they are a lot older than he says they are
2) they have been heavily abused.
I suspect both, but assuming they were new, then they very much look like they have been cooked good and proper. The scoring on the disk looks like the hawk pads are pretty aggressive and the discolouration and oxidation in the vanes between disks looks like they have been glowing at some point. I doubt that EBC intended their disks to be used for full on racing, track days maybe and probably then only with their EBC red pads.
I suspect the the guy is pretty hard on brakes at the best of times as he was also complaining that whatever he had before was only lasting two weekends.
Edited by ViperDave on Sunday 14th December 00:54
Such a load of b*lls and scare mongering the EBC's are great I have had them on two Viper now and they have never warped or cracked these have got so hot that the metal has started to fluid and changed its tensile strength to such a point that they have become brittle.
At Hockenheim I have seen many track Vipers on stock brakes have to retire when the brake discs have shattered, not cracked but shattered if you want to take it to the track then brakes and tyres are the big issue, if you start standing on the brakes or late braking on a stock car you will kill the brakes, been there tried that.
My track credentials are: been there and done that on stock brakes sideways ito the gravel, previously I was a team mechanic for a group one Dolomite Sprint, god the brakes were just as crap and always cracked then a Production Mazda spanner man.
In short no matter how good you are be heavy on your brakes and you will kill the car.
At Hockenheim I have seen many track Vipers on stock brakes have to retire when the brake discs have shattered, not cracked but shattered if you want to take it to the track then brakes and tyres are the big issue, if you start standing on the brakes or late braking on a stock car you will kill the brakes, been there tried that.
My track credentials are: been there and done that on stock brakes sideways ito the gravel, previously I was a team mechanic for a group one Dolomite Sprint, god the brakes were just as crap and always cracked then a Production Mazda spanner man.
In short no matter how good you are be heavy on your brakes and you will kill the car.
Still, its better information like this is posted so that members can see the results Heres the link, and replys. Im totally unbiased in this, just thought members should see the results 
http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/...
http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/...
Must admit this is the first post i have seen on the EBC's and Paul has put his through a tough time...
My ones did get a beating on the road and they only warped not cracked or fractured,And was also 8 yrs ago now... I also ran ferodo brake pads ....
My ones did get a beating on the road and they only warped not cracked or fractured,And was also 8 yrs ago now... I also ran ferodo brake pads ....
Edited by V1PER on Sunday 14th December 12:17
i can only agree with paul , wot a load of s
t , he must have been using concreate pads for them to look like that, changed mine for ebc's and have done 4500 miles on them ,and they are hardley marked ,he's probabley still on standard calapers and is ragging the arse out of his car for them to look like that,he needs a BBD upgrade !
wont be changing mine for a while and when i do i will be changing them for the same !
t , he must have been using concreate pads for them to look like that, changed mine for ebc's and have done 4500 miles on them ,and they are hardley marked ,he's probabley still on standard calapers and is ragging the arse out of his car for them to look like that,he needs a BBD upgrade !wont be changing mine for a while and when i do i will be changing them for the same !
AndyBe said:
I've had the EBC grooved and dimpled discs for a year now. Done one full day on track, and the brakes felt great. I'm using Brakeman3 pads and braided hoses. Big improvement over stock.
I've heard only good about the EBC discs. Lots of Viper owners over here using them too.
Apart from the pads this is pretty much the same set up I have, must say I'm REALLY pleased with the results, a marked improvement over stock brakes both from feel and stopping power, and in my opinion (mainly due to cost) the best option prior to going for the Dave's Big Brakes upgrade. Have driven a couple of cars with Dave's Big Brakes and that upgrade is just excellent! (But cost, and having 17" wheels make my current set up more attractive to me).I've heard only good about the EBC discs. Lots of Viper owners over here using them too.
neilsfishing said:
I had EBC rotors when I went to Germany 1000 miles some hard no problem
Same here, mine were fitted back in May this year, and must say they have been excellent, no problems, and as I said above a marked improvement over the stock set up. They have seen some pretty hard use on a couple of occasions too. I will keep an eye on them, but then I would be doing that anyway!Must echo what Dave has said above though, those rotors seem to have seen a lot more use than is being suggested and appear to have been absolutely cooked.
The dimples appear to have been drilled alot closer to the edge than on mine as well. Not sure if this may have been a contributing factor?
At the moment I have nothing but good things to say about the EBC's, and did alot of research prior to going for them, plus having spoken to many of the guys in the UK who are running them and all had good opinions and reviews.
Hawk pads are good for stopping on the track, but quite aggressive.
On the bikes I run EBC, they are fantastic, road and track. But, for heavyweight cars on the track I've not found in the past EBC to be up for it, (even endurance) they are a good company and gave me a refund. For the road they are very good, and if youre keeping to near speed limits the greens are the best biting winter road pad out there. Discs are good and affordable for the road, but I'd never use any dimpled or drilled for track use. The only budget way to go from trying many is 2 piece slotted type, Roe racing are the best and most affordable I found, Partsrack do some good options too. For track time you need to get cooling in there, bigger brakes help disperse the heat but without the cooling it only buys more time. The Roe discs I've had glowing orange at Rockingham, and the brakes got so hot at Silverstone the ball joint grease melted and caught fire, but the disc didn't crack and the pads didn't brake up, pads are Performance Friction. Took me several years in the begining to find affordable good brake combos, that work. It's also about balance front to rear too. If you've ABS maybe not so much an issue, but caliper piston size maths is important to modulate the braking or you will just lock up. I remember the 5K big brake (not DBB!) upgrade done and then more money had to be spend downsizing the front caliper pistons!
On the bikes I run EBC, they are fantastic, road and track. But, for heavyweight cars on the track I've not found in the past EBC to be up for it, (even endurance) they are a good company and gave me a refund. For the road they are very good, and if youre keeping to near speed limits the greens are the best biting winter road pad out there. Discs are good and affordable for the road, but I'd never use any dimpled or drilled for track use. The only budget way to go from trying many is 2 piece slotted type, Roe racing are the best and most affordable I found, Partsrack do some good options too. For track time you need to get cooling in there, bigger brakes help disperse the heat but without the cooling it only buys more time. The Roe discs I've had glowing orange at Rockingham, and the brakes got so hot at Silverstone the ball joint grease melted and caught fire, but the disc didn't crack and the pads didn't brake up, pads are Performance Friction. Took me several years in the begining to find affordable good brake combos, that work. It's also about balance front to rear too. If you've ABS maybe not so much an issue, but caliper piston size maths is important to modulate the braking or you will just lock up. I remember the 5K big brake (not DBB!) upgrade done and then more money had to be spend downsizing the front caliper pistons!
I've heard that Tom's 40mm rear caliper upgrade is a good assist in balancing the rears for the stock brakes, might be something I seriously consider doing in the future I think.
http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/...
http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/...
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