Discussion
Your key fob obviously is aftermarket and only for the door solenoids. Disconnect the positive terminal from the battery leave it off for a few mins and then reconnect. Your immobiliser should then cancel itself. They are very temperamental and I have experienced similar problems. The immobiliser switches off the fuel pump after a couple of seconds which is why it will start but not run.
Try disconnecting the battery completely (at the battery) and then touch the positive cable which you have just removed from the battery to the frame of the car and earth it, this should clear everything to start again.
(This will not work if you are just disconnecting at the front of the car.)
(This will not work if you are just disconnecting at the front of the car.)
Edited by RT/10Dave on Tuesday 14th July 09:31
Dr-Bob said:
RT/10Dave said:
Try disconnecting the battery completely (at the battery) and then touch the positive cable which you have just removed from the battery to the frame of the car and earth it, this should clear everything to start again.
Who told you that trick...........
If that does'nt work have a look at this VCA post http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/...
i doubt the gen1 fob will work your solenoids with out some fiddling involved, though the gen1 stock alarm with door poppers and fob can be rigged in such away to turn the alarm off and pop open the same time, for a change it only costs pennies recall mine was fitted for £25 and a bottle of JD
so much cooler than having to lean and use the internal handle
so much cooler than having to lean and use the internal handle
Someone in the VCA currently has the same problem as you http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/... Send Steve a PM and I am sure he will help you.
Had the same problem - it was down to a loose wire. Mine had had an aftermarket all singing all dancing Clifford alarm fitted that had subsequently been removed by the previous owner.
Remove the Knee Bolster from under the dash. On the side of the transmission tunnel are two control boxes. On mine I have a standard (I Think) Three button remote. I found that when the alarm button on the fob was pushed one of the boxes would click - I guess this was the reciever recieiving the signal and activating the Imobiliser and alarm module (The other box)
I found that moving the wires in th plug to the imobiliser module would light the 'ALARM SET' light on the dash. Once this was lit pressing the unlock button on my remote extinguished the light and the motor would then start.
I Hope this helps
Remove the Knee Bolster from under the dash. On the side of the transmission tunnel are two control boxes. On mine I have a standard (I Think) Three button remote. I found that when the alarm button on the fob was pushed one of the boxes would click - I guess this was the reciever recieiving the signal and activating the Imobiliser and alarm module (The other box)
I found that moving the wires in th plug to the imobiliser module would light the 'ALARM SET' light on the dash. Once this was lit pressing the unlock button on my remote extinguished the light and the motor would then start.
I Hope this helps
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