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Well that was a job and a half,
Had to replace the front cover timing gasket due to a coolant leak from just behind the Alternator. Not a 5 minute job! While I was at it I changed out some of the OEM Pulleys for some nice new shiny ones (thanks Baz)
Having replaced the timing cover with new gaskets etc, I had a bit of a hick up when changing out the OEM Idler pulley to the Dave's Big Brakes replacement, The original hex bolt is not really long enough and as a consequence when trying to tighten it up to the recommended torque it sheared just under 1/2" off the timing cover spigot 
This was a major set back as I could not afford to take off the cover again, order yet more new Gaskets and have the cover welded then taped out with a new thread 
I went to bed that night very down and wondering what I was going to do, well the next morning I took the day off work and headed to my nearest back street engineering shop, the guy could not have been nicer and made me up an aluminium spacer while I waited and also "GAVE" me a 3/8 UNC thread cutting tap
When I got home I cut off the damaged section of the spigot and carefully filled it square and true. Then using a cordless drill with A 5/16 Drill bit, i had to drill deeper into the spigot and cut a longer length of thread! (not for the faint hearted). The next laugh was trying to get hold of a longer 3/8 UNC bolt, but after a few phone calls and a bit of searching around I finally got one the correct length.
I also want to thank Madmax Ade, without his help I would have been right up against it as I had a bit of a deadline to meet.
So once again thanks Guys Great Club 
PS And a thank you too to Fishboy for his engineering contacts and to TATORS GARAGE, Chuck 'the Wizard' for shipping the parts required
Had to replace the front cover timing gasket due to a coolant leak from just behind the Alternator. Not a 5 minute job! While I was at it I changed out some of the OEM Pulleys for some nice new shiny ones (thanks Baz)
Having replaced the timing cover with new gaskets etc, I had a bit of a hick up when changing out the OEM Idler pulley to the Dave's Big Brakes replacement, The original hex bolt is not really long enough and as a consequence when trying to tighten it up to the recommended torque it sheared just under 1/2" off the timing cover spigot This was a major set back as I could not afford to take off the cover again, order yet more new Gaskets and have the cover welded then taped out with a new thread I went to bed that night very down and wondering what I was going to do, well the next morning I took the day off work and headed to my nearest back street engineering shop, the guy could not have been nicer and made me up an aluminium spacer while I waited and also "GAVE" me a 3/8 UNC thread cutting tap When I got home I cut off the damaged section of the spigot and carefully filled it square and true. Then using a cordless drill with A 5/16 Drill bit, i had to drill deeper into the spigot and cut a longer length of thread! (not for the faint hearted). The next laugh was trying to get hold of a longer 3/8 UNC bolt, but after a few phone calls and a bit of searching around I finally got one the correct length.
I also want to thank Madmax Ade, without his help I would have been right up against it as I had a bit of a deadline to meet.
So once again thanks Guys
Great Club PS And a thank you too to Fishboy for his engineering contacts and to TATORS GARAGE, Chuck 'the Wizard' for shipping the parts required
Edited by fatboy18 on Sunday 9th January 21:32
So attempting this job the first thing was where to put the bonnet 
Rear wings come in handy
Next job was to remove the engine cross-member, the fiberglass inner wheel fender had to be slightly cut to enable me to remove the bolt!
Once the cross-member was out of the way I could start taking off the Alternator and other bits
If you look just behind the alternator bracket you can see where the coolant was leaking!
Crankshaft pulley removed This is attached to the crankshaft damper
That rusty horrid thing is the crankshaft damper
So having drained the old coolant, removing rad hoses, dropping oil pan and removed the timing cover, this is what your left with
A good clean up of all parts was now required
Timing cover removed and the task of cleaning off old gaskets begins
New gaskets supplied by the 'Wizard' and for good measure I also used some gasket sealant as there was some pitting on the engine face around where the coolant leak had been
Timing cover back on
Next job Crankshaft oil seal
I found a suitable sleeve to put around the front edge of the oil seal and carefully knocked it into place with a hammer
Here's what you should end up with
I did not like the asthetic look of the old crankshaft damper, so I rubber it down with Emery paper and sprayed it with Hammerite smooth gloss black paint
You can see the damper in this pic (behind Dave's Big Brakes under drive pulley)
Note also the new water pump pulley and idler wheel
Then the technical hitch with the new Idler wheel
That little bit of thread was attempting to hold the new idler wheel and upon torquing the bolt it fractured! ( Should have used a longer bolt)
So off to a machine shop where they made me a spacer, supplied me with a thread cutting tool and the repair now looks like this
One other thing, if you do decide to change your pulleys, there are various different length drive belt specs!! I ended up getting a bit of string, putting around the pulleys and measure the length. I ended up with a seven rib belt from Euro Car parts
Hope this is helpful
Cheers
Mark
Rear wings come in handy
Next job was to remove the engine cross-member, the fiberglass inner wheel fender had to be slightly cut to enable me to remove the bolt!
Once the cross-member was out of the way I could start taking off the Alternator and other bits
If you look just behind the alternator bracket you can see where the coolant was leaking!
Crankshaft pulley removed
This is attached to the crankshaft damper That rusty horrid thing is the crankshaft damper
So having drained the old coolant, removing rad hoses, dropping oil pan and removed the timing cover, this is what your left with
A good clean up of all parts was now required
Timing cover removed and the task of cleaning off old gaskets begins
New gaskets supplied by the 'Wizard' and for good measure I also used some gasket sealant as there was some pitting on the engine face around where the coolant leak had been
Timing cover back on
Next job Crankshaft oil seal
I found a suitable sleeve to put around the front edge of the oil seal and carefully knocked it into place with a hammer
Here's what you should end up with
I did not like the asthetic look of the old crankshaft damper, so I rubber it down with Emery paper and sprayed it with Hammerite smooth gloss black paint
You can see the damper in this pic (behind Dave's Big Brakes under drive pulley)
Note also the new water pump pulley and idler wheel
Then the technical hitch with the new Idler wheel
That little bit of thread was attempting to hold the new idler wheel and upon torquing the bolt it fractured! ( Should have used a longer bolt)
So off to a machine shop where they made me a spacer, supplied me with a thread cutting tool and the repair now looks like this
One other thing, if you do decide to change your pulleys, there are various different length drive belt specs!! I ended up getting a bit of string, putting around the pulleys and measure the length. I ended up with a seven rib belt from Euro Car parts
Hope this is helpful
Cheers
Mark
Edited by fatboy18 on Sunday 9th January 21:23
Edited by fatboy18 on Sunday 9th January 21:38
Mark, great write up/pics and well done for not letting the issues stunt you. Theres always a little extra unexpected when working on cars ones self, but its all part of the challange and 'fun' !! Nice job you done there, and you will enjoy your car more knowing you were able to do the job for yourself. 
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