alarm immobiliser bypass help
Discussion
Hi can any of you more knowledgeable fellows pm me some info on riping out this bloody alarm and immobiliser its the early meta type. its given me nothing but grief since i have owned the car. today the central locking locked me out managed to get in it started fine got home took the top of the dash off give the relays a tap checked all the fuses all OK, now it wont turn over and the fuel pump wont prime. tried taping relays whilst turning key the battery in the fob is quite new so should be OK the push in fob has never worked so i cant try that.the only thing i can think of is the thing has finally gone kaput. thanks
PM sent regarding bypass.
There are lots of cheap alarm systems with immobilisers available out there. I presume they could all be wired in if you know which cables are which under the dash. But am interested what others have to say? Expect Carl Baker will be mentioned...
Are there downsides to these cheap systems, or does it all come down to some kind of approval system?
There are lots of cheap alarm systems with immobilisers available out there. I presume they could all be wired in if you know which cables are which under the dash. But am interested what others have to say? Expect Carl Baker will be mentioned...
Are there downsides to these cheap systems, or does it all come down to some kind of approval system?
My META was giving me grief. Stalling on big fast round abouts, like yours on M4 at Newport, South Mims and Stanstead. It was cutting out the fuel pump and ignition. I had it bridged to isolate the fuel pump and ignition successfully (£120) No problems since and the remote still locks the doors. Check your fuel pump relays (1inch square silver cubes with red diagonal stripe. Karl Baker Petersfield Hants, bikes and car imobilizers, is the META expert.
EGB said:
My META was giving me grief. Stalling on big fast round abouts, like yours on M4 at Newport, South Mims and Stanstead. It was cutting out the fuel pump and ignition. I had it bridged to isolate the fuel pump and ignition successfully (£120) No problems since and the remote still locks the doors. Check your fuel pump relays (1inch square silver cubes with red diagonal stripe. Karl Baker Petersfield Hants, bikes and car imobilizers, is the META expert.
MY Meta Immobiliser was doing a similar thing, cutting out at random. Last straw was during an overtake when it killed the engine at just the wrong time.I wired up a relay to bypass the immobiliser and keep the circuits energised even if the immobiliser cut out but still provided the protection of the immobiliser when armed.
A replacement immobiliser from Carl Baker finally cured the problem.
Let me know if anyone needs the wiring diagram.
BrianMillar said:
MY Meta Immobiliser was doing a similar thing, cutting out at random. Last straw was during an overtake when it killed the engine at just the wrong time.
I wired up a relay to bypass the immobiliser and keep the circuits energised even if the immobiliser cut out but still provided the protection of the immobiliser when armed.
A replacement immobiliser from Carl Baker finally cured the problem.
Let me know if anyone needs the wiring diagram.
I wouldnt mind please, My alarm / immobiliser is driving me nuts gettings random not starting, siren went off and wouldnt stop randomly now its in a bush in an industrial estate!I wired up a relay to bypass the immobiliser and keep the circuits energised even if the immobiliser cut out but still provided the protection of the immobiliser when armed.
A replacement immobiliser from Carl Baker finally cured the problem.
Let me know if anyone needs the wiring diagram.
neal1980 said:
I wouldnt mind please, My alarm / immobiliser is driving me nuts gettings random not starting, siren went off and wouldnt stop randomly now its in a bush in an industrial estate!
NealI sent you a PM but I can't attach the diagram. Could you reply to the PM with your email address?
My Meta Alarm used to be a bit of a nightmare and would do odd things - it would always let me unlock the car with the fob but then it bacame a bit of a lottery as to whether it would then let the car start afterwards or try to lock it again on pressing the fob.
Having replaced it I discoverd that the fault was not with the meta system at all (the new alarm system, an Avatal Maxx2, was displaying similar characteristics) but was actually due to the secondary switched live feed that goes to the alarm becoming intermitent (or sometimes not feeding at all) when the ignition was switched on.
I should add that this is seemingly not the feed that is marked in the wiring diagrams as going fuse 11 (or is it 13) as that is the permanent live, and I am not sure where it actually comes from.
Anyway, this would explain the symptoms of cars cutting out when underway as this feed dropping off is telling the alarm that the key has been turned to off. So to cut a long story short I routed a new switched live feed to the alarm and all has been well ever since.
I wonder how many Meta's have been binned for this - of course if the new installer routed new positive feeds for the new alarm then the whole problem would go away and the old alarm would be "confirmed" as being duff !!
Cheers,
Matt.
Having replaced it I discoverd that the fault was not with the meta system at all (the new alarm system, an Avatal Maxx2, was displaying similar characteristics) but was actually due to the secondary switched live feed that goes to the alarm becoming intermitent (or sometimes not feeding at all) when the ignition was switched on.
I should add that this is seemingly not the feed that is marked in the wiring diagrams as going fuse 11 (or is it 13) as that is the permanent live, and I am not sure where it actually comes from.
Anyway, this would explain the symptoms of cars cutting out when underway as this feed dropping off is telling the alarm that the key has been turned to off. So to cut a long story short I routed a new switched live feed to the alarm and all has been well ever since.
I wonder how many Meta's have been binned for this - of course if the new installer routed new positive feeds for the new alarm then the whole problem would go away and the old alarm would be "confirmed" as being duff !!
Cheers,
Matt.
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