Radiator leaking
Radiator leaking
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Discussion

srdtvr

Original Poster:

332 posts

299 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
Week 5 of ownership 1993 pre-serp
not used all week as need to sort Alternator/fan issue
last night spotted damp patches behind grille
Rad is weeping from each end from core/header tanks
where's the best source for a re-cored rad in the Watford area
be nice to actually get to drive it one day soon
Thanks

stumpage

2,213 posts

257 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
I used these people.

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/bostonradiatorspecialists

Great service. I had the new Rad in a couple of days and they took the old one in exchange.

srdtvr

Original Poster:

332 posts

299 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
Funny that I have been looking at their Ebay listing
I think I will be odering from them
just got a price from another supplier and its almost £100 more
Thanks for the reply its good to get good feedback from an existing customer

Is it better to get one with the otter switch on the rad - mines on the swirl pot at the moment

stumpage

2,213 posts

257 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
Not sure about relocating the otter switch to the Rad, although my new rad has a blanking plug that can be removed if you want to do that.
I just left everything where it was but took the time to tidy the electrics at the front, and clean and treat the chassis near the Earthing point while the Rad was out.

It's a simple job but make sure you remove the bonnet and get a helper to lift the rad out, it's a bit of a squeeze.

srdtvr

Original Poster:

332 posts

299 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
Thanks again
Yes I heard its a bit of a squeeze although it looks quite straight forward
is it essential to remove the bonnet?

stumpage

2,213 posts

257 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
I would say yes, I removed the bonnet from mine and it was still a bugger to lift out. I would hate to try and do it with the bonnet still on.

WOO5IE

967 posts

228 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
srdtvr said:
Thanks again
Yes I heard its a bit of a squeeze although it looks quite straight forward
is it essential to remove the bonnet?
I found it easily doable with the bonnet in place. Two people are best as it needs to come out of the car sqaure as it is a tight fit and to refit. I alos left the fans on the rad and removed when out iof the car

I used a long broom handle to prop the bonnet open .

Trev

srdtvr

Original Poster:

332 posts

299 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
OK bonnet off then - makes sense I suppose
just another job to add to the ever growing list !!

srdtvr

Original Poster:

332 posts

299 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
WOO5IE said:
I found it easily doable with the bonnet in place. Two people are best as it needs to come out of the car sqaure as it is a tight fit and to refit. I alos left the fans on the rad and removed when out iof the car

I used a long broom handle to prop the bonnet open .

Trev
Thanks Trev, I will assess these options when I start work - narrow garage spoace may dictate that the bonnet need to be removed

TJC46

2,199 posts

237 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
Definetly no need to remove the bonnet. I have managed to lift the rad out[including the fans] on my own, but very easy with 2 people.

Barreti

6,689 posts

268 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
Helped my mate take the rad out of his Chim recently.

We did it with the bonnet still on but I wouldn't like to take the rad out on my own because you are leaning in and it is still quite heavy when empty.
Its a hell of a tight fit and we had to remove the induction pipe too. We also had the filler tank off but I don't know if we needed to do that or did it 'just in case'

tonys

1,080 posts

254 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
If you're taking the rad out, worth cleaning the earth point at the chassis rail end (n/s IIRC) at the same time. Also, if not already replaced, have a look at the steel pipe between the bottom hose and pump, they often corrode.
Have fun smile

srdtvr

Original Poster:

332 posts

299 months

Friday 17th June 2011
quotequote all
Thanks guys all good info going to order new rad from Boston rads looks like the best deal . Steel pipe in good shape previous owner took care of that .
Just got to figure out why changing the alternator makes the fans run full time unless middle connection is left off ?
Thanks again