Discussion
I am having the Chim for it's annual sevice at a main dealer tomorrow (ready for Santa Pod) they would normaly fill with 0/40. However I will be taking the car to the south of France in August and it will be hot. Should I ask them to put in a 10/50 or higher. Your thoughts please.
Thanks
Barrie
P.S. Can't wait for Saturday
Thanks
Barrie
P.S. Can't wait for Saturday
Im going for Penrite 15w60 semi because i don`t think the engine has done enough miles for fully synthetic.I am currently useing Volvoline mineral 20w50 racing oil..0w40 is far to thin..
When I took delivery of my car it had just been serviced by a well known Cambridgeshire TVR specialist, the oil was clearly new when the dip stick was inspected.
After a couple of thousand miles I had a very slight tapping noise when hot, I phoned the TVR specialist to see what oil they used and was proudly told they only use Shell Helix 5/40W
A TVR with a RV8 runs quite hot so it is equally quite hard on it's oil, lets face it the design is 50 years old from the days when engine tolerances demanded heavier oils.
Its also likely most of our cars have done a few miles by now, so its wise to move up a grade to limit oil consumption and hydraulic tappet bleed down.
I either run Millers CSS 20W50 or Penrite HPR 15W60, when running these oils the slight tapping noise is completely eliminated.
Both contain zinc which has been removed from most modern oils on environmental grounds, zinc is an essential additive for flat tappet engines like the RV8.
Both have a good SAE rating so are very high quality oils, and both are semi-synthetic which is ideal for the RV8.
In my experience anything lighter than a 15W50 is definitely not a good idea in an RV8 that's done 30,0000 miles or more.
If you do use a lighter oil be prepared to hear tapping from the cam followers when it gets hot.
If you run your RV8 on an oil without zinc in it be prepared to replace the cam and followers every 40,000 miles or less.
When I took delivery of my car it had just been serviced by a well known Cambridgeshire TVR specialist, the oil was clearly new when the dip stick was inspected.
After a couple of thousand miles I had a very slight tapping noise when hot, I phoned the TVR specialist to see what oil they used and was proudly told they only use Shell Helix 5/40W
A TVR with a RV8 runs quite hot so it is equally quite hard on it's oil, lets face it the design is 50 years old from the days when engine tolerances demanded heavier oils.
Its also likely most of our cars have done a few miles by now, so its wise to move up a grade to limit oil consumption and hydraulic tappet bleed down.
I either run Millers CSS 20W50 or Penrite HPR 15W60, when running these oils the slight tapping noise is completely eliminated.
Both contain zinc which has been removed from most modern oils on environmental grounds, zinc is an essential additive for flat tappet engines like the RV8.
Both have a good SAE rating so are very high quality oils, and both are semi-synthetic which is ideal for the RV8.
In my experience anything lighter than a 15W50 is definitely not a good idea in an RV8 that's done 30,0000 miles or more.
If you do use a lighter oil be prepared to hear tapping from the cam followers when it gets hot.
If you run your RV8 on an oil without zinc in it be prepared to replace the cam and followers every 40,000 miles or less.
SILICONEKID340HP said:
Im going for Penrite 15w60 semi because i don`t think the engine has done enough miles for fully synthetic.I am currently useing Volvoline mineral 20w50 racing oil..0w40 is far to thin..
When I took delivery of my car it had just been serviced by a well known Cambridgeshire TVR specialist, the oil was clearly new when the dip stick was inspected.
After a couple of thousand miles I had a very slight tapping noise when hot, I phoned the TVR specialist to see what oil they used and was proudly told they only use Shell Helix 5/40W
A TVR with a RV8 runs quite hot so it is equally quite hard on it's oil, lets face it the design is 50 years old from the days when engine tolerances demanded heavier oils.
Its also likely most of our cars have done a few miles by now, so its wise to move up a grade to limit oil consumption and hydraulic tappet bleed down.
I either run Millers CSS 20W50 or Penrite HPR 15W60, when running these oils the slight tapping noise is completely eliminated.
Both contain zinc which has been removed from most modern oils on environmental grounds, zinc is an essential additive for flat tappet engines like the RV8.
Both have a good SAE rating so are very high quality oils, and both are semi-synthetic which is ideal for the RV8.
In my experience anything lighter than a 15W50 is definitely not a good idea in an RV8 that's done 30,0000 miles or more.
If you do use a lighter oil be prepared to hear tapping from the cam followers when it gets hot.
If you run your RV8 on an oil without zinc in it be prepared to replace the cam and followers every 40,000 miles or less.
You didn't write this - it would have taken you a week to type all that and if you had it would have looked "different" When I took delivery of my car it had just been serviced by a well known Cambridgeshire TVR specialist, the oil was clearly new when the dip stick was inspected.
After a couple of thousand miles I had a very slight tapping noise when hot, I phoned the TVR specialist to see what oil they used and was proudly told they only use Shell Helix 5/40W
A TVR with a RV8 runs quite hot so it is equally quite hard on it's oil, lets face it the design is 50 years old from the days when engine tolerances demanded heavier oils.
Its also likely most of our cars have done a few miles by now, so its wise to move up a grade to limit oil consumption and hydraulic tappet bleed down.
I either run Millers CSS 20W50 or Penrite HPR 15W60, when running these oils the slight tapping noise is completely eliminated.
Both contain zinc which has been removed from most modern oils on environmental grounds, zinc is an essential additive for flat tappet engines like the RV8.
Both have a good SAE rating so are very high quality oils, and both are semi-synthetic which is ideal for the RV8.
In my experience anything lighter than a 15W50 is definitely not a good idea in an RV8 that's done 30,0000 miles or more.
If you do use a lighter oil be prepared to hear tapping from the cam followers when it gets hot.
If you run your RV8 on an oil without zinc in it be prepared to replace the cam and followers every 40,000 miles or less.
SILICONEKID340HP said:
Im going for Penrite 15w60 semi because i don`t think the engine has done enough miles for fully synthetic.I am currently useing Volvoline mineral 20w50 racing oil..0w40 is far to thin..
When I took delivery of my car it had just been serviced by a well known Cambridgeshire TVR specialist, the oil was clearly new when the dip stick was inspected.
After a couple of thousand miles I had a very slight tapping noise when hot, I phoned the TVR specialist to see what oil they used and was proudly told they only use Shell Helix 5/40W
A TVR with a RV8 runs quite hot so it is equally quite hard on it's oil, lets face it the design is 50 years old from the days when engine tolerances demanded heavier oils.
Its also likely most of our cars have done a few miles by now, so its wise to move up a grade to limit oil consumption and hydraulic tappet bleed down.
I either run Millers CSS 20W50 or Penrite HPR 15W60, when running these oils the slight tapping noise is completely eliminated.
Both contain zinc which has been removed from most modern oils on environmental grounds, zinc is an essential additive for flat tappet engines like the RV8.
Both have a good SAE rating so are very high quality oils, and both are semi-synthetic which is ideal for the RV8.
In my experience anything lighter than a 15W50 is definitely not a good idea in an RV8 that's done 30,0000 miles or more.
If you do use a lighter oil be prepared to hear tapping from the cam followers when it gets hot.
If you run your RV8 on an oil without zinc in it be prepared to replace the cam and followers every 40,000 miles or less.
Daz that very well written mate, it's almost like I wrote it myself When I took delivery of my car it had just been serviced by a well known Cambridgeshire TVR specialist, the oil was clearly new when the dip stick was inspected.
After a couple of thousand miles I had a very slight tapping noise when hot, I phoned the TVR specialist to see what oil they used and was proudly told they only use Shell Helix 5/40W
A TVR with a RV8 runs quite hot so it is equally quite hard on it's oil, lets face it the design is 50 years old from the days when engine tolerances demanded heavier oils.
Its also likely most of our cars have done a few miles by now, so its wise to move up a grade to limit oil consumption and hydraulic tappet bleed down.
I either run Millers CSS 20W50 or Penrite HPR 15W60, when running these oils the slight tapping noise is completely eliminated.
Both contain zinc which has been removed from most modern oils on environmental grounds, zinc is an essential additive for flat tappet engines like the RV8.
Both have a good SAE rating so are very high quality oils, and both are semi-synthetic which is ideal for the RV8.
In my experience anything lighter than a 15W50 is definitely not a good idea in an RV8 that's done 30,0000 miles or more.
If you do use a lighter oil be prepared to hear tapping from the cam followers when it gets hot.
If you run your RV8 on an oil without zinc in it be prepared to replace the cam and followers every 40,000 miles or less.
The Silcone Kid strikes again with an awesome bit of copy & paste
I use Motul 5W40 fully syn, but then mine doesn't run hot in the slightest. TVR recommended 5W40, and when it's hot it's as stable as the original 15w40 the RV8 was designed to use so it was a no brainer for me. Might switch to 10W40 when it clicks 100k miles (could be years away yet!) but finding a fully synthetic 10W40 is more tricky.
If I were hammering the arse off it I'd probably go for 5W50 or similar at the mo, but can't really say I've ever encountered the conditions where it would need it TBH.
If I were hammering the arse off it I'd probably go for 5W50 or similar at the mo, but can't really say I've ever encountered the conditions where it would need it TBH.
SILICONEKID340HP said:
I listen and learn,Hope it was ok to copy and paste it ..it is a good reply to your question..
I have started using a different oil now.Specifically developed to handle the the high revving advanced machines made by Singer it delivers astonishing performance.
Refined from the swim bladder of the Malaysian Muppet fish this unique oil is perfect for endurance BS racing.
The only problem is the pack size is rather small, but I have found ten cases just about does one oil change in the Rover V8.
And before you ask, no this is not a stitch up.
Kitchski said:
I use Motul 5W40 fully syn, but then mine doesn't run hot in the slightest. TVR recommended 5W40, and when it's hot it's as stable as the original 15w40 the RV8 was designed to use so it was a no brainer for me. Might switch to 10W40 when it clicks 100k miles (could be years away yet!) but finding a fully synthetic 10W40 is more tricky.
If I were hammering the arse off it I'd probably go for 5W50 or similar at the mo, but can't really say I've ever encountered the conditions where it would need it TBH.
I was originally on mobil 1 15/50 but from the last service was advised to switch to Shell helix 10/40. Aside from shell being much cheaper I will be going back to the mobil 1 as of the next service. The car does use more of the helix oil and is slightly noisier. I think mobil 1 is worth the extra cost. If I were hammering the arse off it I'd probably go for 5W50 or similar at the mo, but can't really say I've ever encountered the conditions where it would need it TBH.
The way I look at it is that if the engine is audibly more noisy then the components in it are getting less protection from the oil and are therefor wearing quicker.
NEVER AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Will I take the car to a (this) main agent again. £533.17p for a 6,000ml service including new wiper blades, that cost £290 + VAT for labour. To be told that the air filter needs a clean, it has an oil leak (we will tell you where it is coming from, when you bring it back)
'By the way at the last place I worked at we would not have put that oil in (0/40)'
I had it serviced at the same place last year (12,000) it was quite obvious then that they had not changed the clutch fluid, so obvious they had not checked it this year.
To say that am pissed off is an under statement.
Rant over.
And yes I will be sending them a copy of the TVR schedule and I await their reply.
Will I take the car to a (this) main agent again. £533.17p for a 6,000ml service including new wiper blades, that cost £290 + VAT for labour. To be told that the air filter needs a clean, it has an oil leak (we will tell you where it is coming from, when you bring it back)
'By the way at the last place I worked at we would not have put that oil in (0/40)'
I had it serviced at the same place last year (12,000) it was quite obvious then that they had not changed the clutch fluid, so obvious they had not checked it this year.
To say that am pissed off is an under statement.
Rant over.
And yes I will be sending them a copy of the TVR schedule and I await their reply.
Edited by biper on Wednesday 6th July 21:33
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