Put me in touch with Hans (The Flying Dutchman) ?
Discussion
SILICONEKID340HP said:
I have Pro race 1.2`s same wheel but with writing on the rim..I went for 16" front 17" rear which i think is the best combination only 1" larger..I have a front set 17" with nearly new falken 452`s for sale.
Thanks DazFor 2nd hand I'd want to rob them off you !
You've sussed by now, I prefer to buy new and confident I can cut a deal on a full set
SILICONEKID340HP said:
They are 7.5j et 25 but think i could use them on the rear with some track day tyres then just sell the falken tyres.ET 25 may be ok on the rear with out catching ..there only 7.5j but might get away with 245 R888 tyres or something similar..just for santa pod..
i'm hoping to do the next pod meet - enjoyed your footage btwSILICONEKID340HP said:
seeing you are spending alot of money I would go for the 18" spider conversion..
If you want your car to handle like it's got lead in the tyres, that is. SP12s and 17"fronts an entirely better bet 
Even with a projected 400 bhp, I'd urge you not to over-spec the brakes on a 1,060 kg car - you won't get any temperature in them in normal driving and they'll burden you with a lot of unsprung weight - which a car as light as this is rather peculiar about.
900T-R said:
If you want your car to handle like it's got lead in the tyres, that is. SP12s and 17"fronts an entirely better bet
Even with a projected 400 bhp, I'd urge you not to over-spec the brakes on a 1,060 kg car - you won't get any temperature in them in normal driving and they'll burden you with a lot of unsprung weight - which a car as light as this is rather peculiar about.
we're still scratching our heads on the brakes - don't fancy the willwood solution for example, or any fronts only offering.Even with a projected 400 bhp, I'd urge you not to over-spec the brakes on a 1,060 kg car - you won't get any temperature in them in normal driving and they'll burden you with a lot of unsprung weight - which a car as light as this is rather peculiar about.
Any ideas Eric ?
Thing is, the standard ones were ready to give up quite early on in my recent 3 hour airfield session and IMO wasn't even working them that hard. Had to keep resting them and the stench !
ETA- and that's with only 245 atw
Jammy Dodger said:
Any ideas Eric ?
Yeah, got a few depending on budget. The ultimate IMO would be the Tarox kit- 6 pots with 300 mm on the front (330 available but honestly I wouldn't), 316 mm disc conversion rear, both with two-piece discs. Overkill for most applications though, and rather expensive compared to Hans' offerings. Jammy Dodger said:
Thing is, the standard ones were ready to give up quite early on in my recent 3 hour airfield session and IMO wasn't even working them that hard. Had to keep resting them and the stench !
ETA- and that's with only 245 atw
Standard or uprated pads? ETA- and that's with only 245 atw
Unless you change the gearing to go past 170 or so (which would be rather unwise to do in a Chim IMO) you're not going to work the brakes that much harder. You'll be arriving at bends a bit quicker but with experience and set up you'll carry a bit more speed through them, too.
Don't take this the wrong way, but my main TVR man for maintenance/repair who also is a driving tutor for the Continental meeting, maintains the reason people spec extreme brake upgrades is because they have yet to properly learn to drive on track - which I do recognise from my own track exploits in my old Saab (massive straight line speed, then braking early and long instead of short and hard to very low speeds before nailing it again after the apex)...
900T-R said:
Standard or uprated pads?
Unless you change the gearing to go past 170 or so (which would be rather unwise to do in a Chim IMO) you're not going to work the brakes that much harder. You'll be arriving at bends a bit quicker but with experience and set up you'll carry a bit more speed through them, too.
Don't take this the wrong way, but my main TVR man for maintenance/repair who also is a driving tutor for the Continental meeting, maintains the reason people spec extreme brake upgrades is because they have yet to properly learn to drive on track - which I do recognise from my own track exploits in my old Saab (massive straight line speed, then braking early and long instead of short and hard to very low speeds before nailing it again after the apex)...
new discs standard pads - 500 standard "uprated" over 400/430/450 etc.Unless you change the gearing to go past 170 or so (which would be rather unwise to do in a Chim IMO) you're not going to work the brakes that much harder. You'll be arriving at bends a bit quicker but with experience and set up you'll carry a bit more speed through them, too.
Don't take this the wrong way, but my main TVR man for maintenance/repair who also is a driving tutor for the Continental meeting, maintains the reason people spec extreme brake upgrades is because they have yet to properly learn to drive on track - which I do recognise from my own track exploits in my old Saab (massive straight line speed, then braking early and long instead of short and hard to very low speeds before nailing it again after the apex)...
i'd better be arriving at corners quite a lot quicker than before !
I'm not looking for the most sophisticated or expensive system, just something that i can rely on in emergencies on the road but also up to some prolonged track abuse : perfecting my lap technique requires practice which requires time and opportunity which I can't absolutely count on regularly
You'd be surprised what difference a change to DS2500 or similar makes...
Anyway, given your brief I'd honestly leave the 273 mm vented rears alone apart from a pad change as per above/lines/fluid, and go to a decent lightweight four (or Tarox six) pot callipers with 300 mm ish two piece discs and the same pad compound as on the rear. This will change the brake balance from slightly rear-biased to well, erm, balanced, and add a bit of stability under braking.
At 300 mm (or more) I'd avoid anything with single piece discs in this application - coming from 260 mm you'd add a dollop of unsprung/rotating weight.
What is it about the Wilwood gear you don't like? It's pretty decent with good support...
Anyway, given your brief I'd honestly leave the 273 mm vented rears alone apart from a pad change as per above/lines/fluid, and go to a decent lightweight four (or Tarox six) pot callipers with 300 mm ish two piece discs and the same pad compound as on the rear. This will change the brake balance from slightly rear-biased to well, erm, balanced, and add a bit of stability under braking.
At 300 mm (or more) I'd avoid anything with single piece discs in this application - coming from 260 mm you'd add a dollop of unsprung/rotating weight.
What is it about the Wilwood gear you don't like? It's pretty decent with good support...
Those SP's are just a rebrand or something else, is it TWS or Matt Neals stuff.
Just use a set of rears on the front - job done. 16 x 7.5 front and rear. Lots of space for Hans kit.
just go down on profile on the front - job done. All this 18" stuff is just bling. Nice if you wanna go smashing rims and pasta thin radials.
5mm space on the front stops the rears on the front catching the arms
http://www.freewebs.com/faster-tvr/
http://www.pistonheads.com/roadtests/doc.asp?c=107...
Just use a set of rears on the front - job done. 16 x 7.5 front and rear. Lots of space for Hans kit.
just go down on profile on the front - job done. All this 18" stuff is just bling. Nice if you wanna go smashing rims and pasta thin radials.
5mm space on the front stops the rears on the front catching the arms
http://www.freewebs.com/faster-tvr/
http://www.pistonheads.com/roadtests/doc.asp?c=107...
jellison said:
Those SP's are just a rebrand or something else, is it TWS or Matt Neals stuff.
Just use a set of rears on the front - job done. 16 x 7.5 front and rear. Lots of space for Hans kit.
just go down on profile on the front - job done. All this 18" stuff is just bling. Nice if you wanna go smashing rims and pasta thin radials.
5mm space on the front stops the rears on the front catching the arms
http://www.freewebs.com/faster-tvr/
http://www.pistonheads.com/roadtests/doc.asp?c=107...
SP12s = TD Prorace 1.2's - Team Dynamics to Silverstone Performance to Team Dynamics i think.Just use a set of rears on the front - job done. 16 x 7.5 front and rear. Lots of space for Hans kit.
just go down on profile on the front - job done. All this 18" stuff is just bling. Nice if you wanna go smashing rims and pasta thin radials.
5mm space on the front stops the rears on the front catching the arms
http://www.freewebs.com/faster-tvr/
http://www.pistonheads.com/roadtests/doc.asp?c=107...
Actually Jelly I do fancy a bit of bling within reason and unable to commit the time (2 year old twins) to MASTERING (not just more or less competent) beyond the limit car control.
So.... been thinking 9 x 18 Rear, 7.5 x 17 Front.
But the 9 x is maybe OTT.
Really like these, with Tiv centres of course, but I'm told they won't allow for brakes as the spokes are inset... They remind me of 1980's 911 turbo deep dish fuchs or something like that. They're different for sure...
www.wheelbasealloys.com/15_Inch_Momo_Torque_3000_A...
The estorils are a bit dull, but will hang on to them for the sake of originality or as spares
Jammy, you can squeeze a 10" rim on the rear with decent rubber, handles well and looks good.
I have 330mm discs, (RS Focus from memory, fairly cheap too) and 4 pot Bremsport calipers.
These coupled with Hawk HP Plus pads gives the most fantastic braking ability, oh, rears are some Ferodo pad!
Even after a 40 min flat out track session, never a hint of fade, over heating or any drama and now have done many T/D's.
I have 330mm discs, (RS Focus from memory, fairly cheap too) and 4 pot Bremsport calipers.
These coupled with Hawk HP Plus pads gives the most fantastic braking ability, oh, rears are some Ferodo pad!
Even after a 40 min flat out track session, never a hint of fade, over heating or any drama and now have done many T/D's.
Jammy Dodger said:
we're still scratching our heads on the brakes - don't fancy the willwood solution for example, or any fronts only offering.
Any ideas Eric ?
Thing is, the standard ones were ready to give up quite early on in my recent 3 hour airfield session and IMO wasn't even working them that hard. Had to keep resting them and the stench !
ETA- and that's with only 245 atw
to make up a brake upgrade is not rocket science, talk to Jamie (he had my old chimeara, that had TVR APs on it) dics and bells came from Hi Spec £350.00, calipers from ebay £125.00 perside, mounting brackets £80.00 frm an engineering shop.job doneAny ideas Eric ?
Thing is, the standard ones were ready to give up quite early on in my recent 3 hour airfield session and IMO wasn't even working them that hard. Had to keep resting them and the stench !
ETA- and that's with only 245 atw
Thanks gents -
can someone explain to me in idiot proof terms the limitations governing wheels/tyres/brakes combinations, fitted to standard hubs ?
Obviously i realise there can be issues at full lock, so what are the limits without having to hack at the inner arches ?
And how do big wheels adversely affect handling, beyond low profiles giving a harsher ride (is that right ?)
Are R 10/9 x 18s, F 8/7.5 x 17s feasible ? Desirable ? or is that OTT and why ?
Pete (Haircutmike) for example has massive wheels, brakes and his wheels are deep dished !
so why on earth have 3 suppliers told me these won't work ?
4 stud is available and a range of offsets....
BTW, think they'll look good or nasty, with Tiv centres ideally, if i can use these wheels at all that is ? Bearing in mind they're essentially painted deep dished imolas
oh & braided lines, upgrade fluid is a given for the brakes
can someone explain to me in idiot proof terms the limitations governing wheels/tyres/brakes combinations, fitted to standard hubs ?
Obviously i realise there can be issues at full lock, so what are the limits without having to hack at the inner arches ?
And how do big wheels adversely affect handling, beyond low profiles giving a harsher ride (is that right ?)
Are R 10/9 x 18s, F 8/7.5 x 17s feasible ? Desirable ? or is that OTT and why ?
Pete (Haircutmike) for example has massive wheels, brakes and his wheels are deep dished !
so why on earth have 3 suppliers told me these won't work ?
4 stud is available and a range of offsets....
BTW, think they'll look good or nasty, with Tiv centres ideally, if i can use these wheels at all that is ? Bearing in mind they're essentially painted deep dished imolas
oh & braided lines, upgrade fluid is a given for the brakes
Edited by Jammy Dodger on Saturday 16th July 10:11
Jammy, If you are going for bigger brakes you will have to run 17" fronts.
My fronts are 8" rims, backs 10", they actually measure 11", rim lip to rim lip!
On the rears, I had to trim off about 25mm from the indide lip of the wheel arch, that's 'cos the arches are so thick!
I still retain full lock on the 225 fronts, (rears being 255) that's triple 8's that for some reason come up wider then road tyres 'cause they're square shouldered.
I also run braided lines and racing brack fluid.
Not all setups are the same, my pal wadsapple is on his 3rd brake setup with name brand calipers, Ferodo pads etc and has been constantly plagued by boiling fluid, fade etc, maybe I got lucky with my combination, (anyhow his is a grief so it doesn't matter!).
HTH.
My fronts are 8" rims, backs 10", they actually measure 11", rim lip to rim lip!
On the rears, I had to trim off about 25mm from the indide lip of the wheel arch, that's 'cos the arches are so thick!
I still retain full lock on the 225 fronts, (rears being 255) that's triple 8's that for some reason come up wider then road tyres 'cause they're square shouldered.
I also run braided lines and racing brack fluid.
Not all setups are the same, my pal wadsapple is on his 3rd brake setup with name brand calipers, Ferodo pads etc and has been constantly plagued by boiling fluid, fade etc, maybe I got lucky with my combination, (anyhow his is a grief so it doesn't matter!).
HTH.
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