What's involved in removing exhaust, sleeving and replacing?
What's involved in removing exhaust, sleeving and replacing?
Author
Discussion

Timja

Original Poster:

1,955 posts

239 months

Monday 18th July 2011
quotequote all
I have had my Chimaera for over 4 years now and so far have resisted the urge to make it louder, but I can't hold off anymore!

Keep on hearing louder cars making more pops and bangs and have decided i would like that!

Would prefer it to still pass MOT with no problems so for now planning on leaving in the Cats.

After reading various threads and listening to cars what i plan on doing is opening the silencer box, replacing the perforated pipes with solid pipes, packing the wadding back in and welding back up the box.

I can't weld, but have a friend who may be able to.

Was just wondering how easy it is to remove exhaust, do the work and replace? Do you need specialist welding gear to weld stainless?

Finally, does anyone know a place near Harpenden, Herts that can do this work in case my friend can't?


Any tips gratefully received.

Also, will removing the main cat dramatically increase the noise? This was another option i was considering.

Motik

92 posts

206 months

Monday 18th July 2011
quotequote all
You can have my exhaust, it's sleeved and noisy, and I'm dreaming of having a quieter one to be able to drive my Chim to work without receiving threatening letters from my neighbours shoot

The only problem is that I'm on the other side of the Channel from you and I haven't so far found any carrier who will take something so big as a Chimaera exhaust...

tuscan66

255 posts

194 months

Monday 18th July 2011
quotequote all
easy job really, you will need to unbolt and remove the under plate to get access to the exhaust and ani roll bars. you will need to cut open the box with a grinder or such self explanitory once you get started. you will need to take some care when measuring and cutting the stainless tubes that replace the baffles as these can be tight to fit in if cut too long. sure others here will add some tips and views. oh and the front exhaust clamp may be a tad tight and need some gentle ish knocks. remember how far the exhaust sticks out the back as this will help to get bolt holes aligned when putting back in place. you will poss need to jack the exhaust to take the weight and assist removal and replacement.. well worth it when you fire her up again ,,,,

SILICONEKID340HP

14,997 posts

261 months

Monday 18th July 2011
quotequote all
Have you thought about changing the Y piece or go for this mod ,two hand made cherry bombs ,SmartsRus did this a few years back..very raspy not agricultural



You can see it`s prity close to the ACT sports exhaust but only cost about £180


Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Monday 18th July 18:40

Timja

Original Poster:

1,955 posts

239 months

Sunday 24th July 2011
quotequote all
Thanks for the replies. Think i'm going to leave the cats in for now and just do straight through.

Does anyone know the size/spec of pipe required to replace the perforated pipe? Also, what welding eqipment is required to weld stainless?

Thanks

OldSkoolRS

7,274 posts

209 months

Sunday 24th July 2011
quotequote all
You need a TIG welder to weld Stainless steel:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_tungsten_arc_weld...

Alexdaredevilz

5,697 posts

209 months

Sunday 24th July 2011
quotequote all
Just mig it and add some heat proof paint to stop it rusting, your never going to see it

Simon says

19,461 posts

251 months

Sunday 24th July 2011
quotequote all
Alexdaredevilz said:
Just mig it and add some heat proof paint to stop it rusting, your never going to see it
yes stainless welds a treat with MIG have often welded mild steel downpipes to stainless system's in the past(jap stuff)and never had any problems whistle

OldSkoolRS

7,274 posts

209 months

Sunday 24th July 2011
quotequote all
That's worth knowing as I have a MIG welder already (but no TVR as yet...).

Alexdaredevilz

5,697 posts

209 months

Sunday 24th July 2011
quotequote all
OldSkoolRS said:
That's worth knowing as I have a MIG welder already (but no TVR as yet...).
Your very welcome to help me with mine, it will be good practice for you :-)

OldSkoolRS

7,274 posts

209 months

Sunday 24th July 2011
quotequote all
I've got an RS2000 in bits that I should be 'practicing' on. Until it's done I can't sell it and get the TVR, but I'm such a lazy b***** smile

Timja

Original Poster:

1,955 posts

239 months

Tuesday 26th July 2011
quotequote all
Spoken to my friend, he has tig, mig, arc and gas welding equipment!! - So that element should be ok!

Hoping to do the work this weekend if he is free, does anyone know what size/spec tube I need or can suggest anywhere to buy it ideally near Banbury or St Albans.


Thanks.

SILICONEKID340HP

14,997 posts

261 months

Tuesday 26th July 2011
quotequote all
Timja said:
Spoken to my friend, he has tig, mig, arc and gas welding equipment!! - So that element should be ok!

Hoping to do the work this weekend if he is free, does anyone know what size/spec tube I need or can suggest anywhere to buy it ideally near Banbury or St Albans.


Thanks.
Have a look at this before you commit.

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... swappage?? (unlikely but worth asking..)
http://s242.photobucket.com/albums/ff240/mick8723/
There is a video of the sound ..and step by step pictures on 5 and 6



Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Tuesday 26th July 16:14

Timja

Original Poster:

1,955 posts

239 months

Tuesday 26th July 2011
quotequote all
Are you suggesting that this should give a better sounds than full straight through?

Alexdaredevilz

5,697 posts

209 months

Tuesday 26th July 2011
quotequote all
Timja said:
Are you suggesting that this should give a better sounds than full straight through?
There both straight through, just one doesn't have the old box round it any more

Timja

Original Poster:

1,955 posts

239 months

Tuesday 26th July 2011
quotequote all
Alexdaredevilz said:
There both straight through, just one doesn't have the old box round it any more
Surely if it has perforated pipes like above it is not straight through? Or am I missing something?

Are you suggesting keeping some of it with perf pipe or to not put the silencer box back on or a combination of the above?

Thanks

blitzracing

6,422 posts

250 months

Tuesday 26th July 2011
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Read this post, not as loud as straight through (read Lancaster bomber type noise levels).

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

SILICONEKID340HP

14,997 posts

261 months

Tuesday 26th July 2011
quotequote all
Timja said:
Are you suggesting that this should give a better sounds than full straight through?
Have a look on the video its on the fotobucket link and on the 5th and 6th page step by step pictures .It was Sappers car but i think he went to New Zealand..He had the conversion done then decided it was to loud so he refabricated it to his taste.
Tap on the picture ..













Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Tuesday 26th July 22:28

Alexdaredevilz

5,697 posts

209 months

Tuesday 26th July 2011
quotequote all
Timja said:
Surely if it has perforated pipes like above it is not straight through? Or am I missing something?

Are you suggesting keeping some of it with perf pipe or to not put the silencer box back on or a combination of the above?

Thanks
Sorry couldn't see that section off my phone

SX Boy

41 posts

207 months

Wednesday 27th July 2011
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I've had a sleeved exhaust, a standard exhaust and now a cherry bomb exhaust. I know it's about personal choice, but the sleeved was much too raw and the standard much too tame. The cherry bomb is similar to the sleeved but the best by far.clap