Replacing sump gasket...

[Nosh]

All,

Can you give me some tips where to buy, installation methods (use silicone as well as gasket).

I have already purchased new studs and intend to replace the bolts with these.

Thanks in advance

Nosh.

[Ribol]

Make sure you use thread sealer on all the studs that are not up blind holes, particularily on the last two at the back of the engine.

Whether or not you use a gasket or just sealer is down to personal choice. I know people who have no leaks with a gasket and some have no leaks without a gasket, there isn't a right answer.

[dbv8]

Nosh said:

All,

Can you give me some tips where to buy, installation methods (use silicone as well as gasket).

I have already purchased new studs and intend to replace the bolts with these.

Thanks in advance

Nosh.

Where did you get the studs?

[scotty_d]

I used just a cork gasket on mine as it was leaking a little when i first got the car. I bought it at a local motor factors and it did 10k with no leaks when i sold it.

[Ribol]

dbv8 said:

Where did you get the studs?

They are nothing special, you can just chop the heads off some 2" X 5/16 UNC set screws and nuts as I did if you already have some laying about.

[Nosh]

dbv8 said:

Where did you get the studs?

Fleabay

HTH

Nosh

Edited by Nosh on Tuesday 19th July 15:39

[Nosh]

Ribol said:

Make sure you use thread sealer on all the studs that are not up blind holes, particularily on the last two at the back of the engine.

Good tip - thanks!
Nosh

[dbv8]

Nosh said:

Fleabay

HTH

Nosh

Edited by Nosh on Tuesday 19th July 15:39

I aint paying that. I will use Ribols idea.
Oh and dont overtighten. Will leak between the bolts.

[SILICONEKID340HP]

Make sure you use a full tube if silicone

[Nosh]

dbv8 said:

I aint paying that. I will use Ribols idea.
Oh and dont overtighten. Will leak between the bolts.

Just checked with Racetech Direct - they don't sell cork or rubber gaskets anymore - too much vibration of the engine led to weeping / leaking. He also stated that only the very early cars had cork gaskets, and the later TVRs were done with silicone - in the factory.

Method he suggests is to use a high quality sealant (high temp resistance), making sure the surfaces are clean. Also, allow proper curing time before filling with oil!

I think the studs is the way to go, as it should help align the sump tray to the bottom of the engine, negating possible smearing of sealant etc.....

I don't think there will be any leaking between the bolts if the sealant is applied properly and has sufficent time to cure) - as well as not overtightened!

Cheers,
Nosh

[Ribol]

Nosh said:

Method he suggests is to use a high quality sealant (high temp resistance), making sure the surfaces are clean. Also, allow proper curing time before filling with oil!

I think the studs is the way to go, as it should help align the sump tray to the bottom of the engine, negating possible smearing of sealant etc.....

I don't think there will be any leaking between the bolts if the sealant is applied properly and has sufficent time to cure) - as well as not overtightened!

Allowing enough curing time is essential, some silicones skin over but are not oil resistant until hours later. The only sealer that works straight away is the one made by Permatex, but not easy to find and not cheap.
Wiping both surfaces with thinners gives you the best chance of success. The advantage of the studs is it is easier to seal the threads properly than if you are using bolts. Alignment isn't a problem, neither is overtightening, once you run out of thread you are done.

The less silicone you use the better off you are, ask any PH plumber

[dbv8]

Cork gaskets must be available elsewhere.
My engines being stripped again and i would rather refit a new cork gasket with a minimal smear of silicone myself.
I wouldnt want to run the risk of silicone gasket finding its way to the oil pickup. Ive had my share of cock ups lately thanks.

[Marty V8]

I got an oil tight seal using a cork gasket and doing the following during a rebuild, but I did have the advantage of having the engine on a stand. I got this tip from a Rover V8 builder who has been building these for decades. Ive re-fitted sumps twice now using this method and have yet to have a leak:

To fit .....make sure that the areas are clean and apply a layer of Polyurethane sealer to the block.
Lay the gasket on and put another layer of sealer on top.
Set on the sump and just nip up the bolts until you see the sealer starting to appear at the sides.
Leave it for about 30 minutes , or until the sealer is starting to go semi set , and then tighten down some more.
When the sealer has gone to "rubber" tighten down to the torque setting of 10 ft lbs and trim off the surplus gasket and sealer with a Stanley knife.

HTH

Cheers

Marty

[Jammy Dodger]

Be sure to do it right though, otherwise you'll end up with a pick up pipe blocked with bits of gasket and silicone, sh!t like this

[haircutmike]

Jammy Dodger said:

Be sure to do it right though, otherwise you'll end up with a pick up pipe blocked with bits of gasket and silicone, sh!t like this

I know another guy who did this and he ain't a plumber .

[Alexdaredevilz]

haircutmike said:

I know another guy who did this and he ain't a plumber .

I did?

[Alexdaredevilz]

haircutmike said:

I know another guy who did this and he ain't a plumber .

I did?

[haircutmike]

Alexdaredevilz said:

I did?

Is that a confession, no, someone else!

[dbv8]

Wasnt me

[Alexdaredevilz]

haircutmike said:

Is that a confession, no, someone else!

Not a confession, but it wasn't long ago I sealed part of your sump, I had to ask :-)