Big day tomorrow....

[Nosh]

.....with a lot of jobs being done on the Chim.

These are:-

Replace all the rubber water hoses with the lovely black silicone hoses from ACT
Fit new water pump
Plumb in the new rad
Replace reversing light switch
Fit studs for sump pan
Replace the sump gasket
Oil change and fit new oil filter

Not looking forward to bleeding the air from the water system once I have refilled it.....heard it can be a nightmare!!

Wish me luck!

Nosh

PS - had new alarm fitted by Carl Baker last week (top bloke) and replaced the rear gas strut for the boot - now it opens and STAYS open - it even has a wider opening now which is VERY handy. The clicker on the alarm to open the boot is a godsend...

[Harrytsg]

I wish you luck, but only because you have asked for it.

Dont be put off by the bleeding of the water system, it just takes time.
The method i used when I replaced my rad was with a funnel in the top of the swirl pot, which i kept topped up until all the air was out. I checked daily after that for a week or so, and topped up as necessary (only very minor top ups) , until it settled.
Dont forget to set the heater to 'hot' so that that part of the cooling system is purged.
You might jack the car up as some suggest, I didnt find it necessary.

[Jonny cobra]

Hay Nosh , Was the boot opening device easy to do ?? Or did carl do it ??

JC ,

[Alexdaredevilz]

Nosh said:

.....with a lot of jobs being done on the Chim.

These are:-

Replace all the rubber water hoses with the lovely black silicone hoses from ACT
Fit new water pump
Plumb in the new rad
Replace reversing light switch
Fit studs for sump pan
Replace the sump gasket
Oil change and fit new oil filter

Im expecting videos on how to's

[Nosh]

Jonny cobra said:

Hay Nosh , Was the boot opening device easy to do ?? Or did carl do it ??

JC ,

Carl did it

Nosh

[Nosh]

Alexdaredevilz said:

Im expecting videos on how to's

Sorry - can't help mate...however,

I can make videos on how 'not to do it first time but get it right afther 9 attempts' type of thing....

Nosh

[mash]

Harrytsg said:

Dont be put off by the bleeding of the water system, it just takes time.
The method i used when I replaced my rad was with a funnel in the top of the swirl pot, which i kept topped up until all the air was out. I checked daily after that for a week or so, and topped up as necessary (only very minor top ups) , until it settled.
Dont forget to set the heater to 'hot' so that that part of the cooling system is purged.
You might jack the car up as some suggest, I didnt find it necessary.

As he says, took a few atttempts. I put the funnel in the swirl pot, opened the bleed valve on the rad until fluid ran out, topped up via the funnel, topped up the expansion tank to half full and then replaced the cap, opened heater to full, started engine and topped up via funnel as the air was purged from the system.
As it gets to near boiling point the air escaping will lessen, make sure the 'stat opens, it will be obvious, stop the engine and top up via the funnel as the coolant level drops. Screw in the brass plug and let her cool. It took me 3 attempts to remove all the air from the sytstem.

Good luck.

[Nosh]

mash said:

As he says, took a few atttempts. I put the funnel in the swirl pot, opened the bleed valve on the rad until fluid ran out, topped up via the funnel, topped up the expansion tank to half full and then replaced the cap, opened heater to full, started engine and topped up via funnel as the air was purged from the system.
As it gets to near boiling point the air escaping will lessen, make sure the 'stat opens, it will be obvious, stop the engine and top up via the funnel as the coolant level drops. Screw in the brass plug and let her cool. It took me 3 attempts to remove all the air from the sytstem.

Good luck.

Thanks Mash and Harrytsg - really useful advice.

I did do it right, afterall...

Cheers
Nosh