So, no oil leaks BUT..............
Discussion
....I don't know if I done the water stuff ok.......
Changed rad, water pump, thermostat (larger bore and 82 degrees one) and did the following.......
Undid the bleed screw on rad.
Filled the expansion tank.
Filled the swirl pot, until all the air escaped from the rad, via the bleed screw.
Tightened up the bleed screw on rad.
STARTED ENGINE
Kept topping up the swirl pot with anti-freeze & water fluid until I *thought* the thermostat opened
Filled swirl pot with fluid (still had bubbles coming up, but the water *was* hot)
Replaced swirl pot cap
Engine got to 90 degrees - and fans kicked in
Engine went above 90. stopped engine.
Started engine after 5 mins and then went round the block
Stopped at house, and temp still just over 90 degrees
So, is there still air in the system?
Any advice would be great...
Cheers
Nosh.
Changed rad, water pump, thermostat (larger bore and 82 degrees one) and did the following.......
Undid the bleed screw on rad.
Filled the expansion tank.
Filled the swirl pot, until all the air escaped from the rad, via the bleed screw.
Tightened up the bleed screw on rad.
STARTED ENGINE
Kept topping up the swirl pot with anti-freeze & water fluid until I *thought* the thermostat opened
Filled swirl pot with fluid (still had bubbles coming up, but the water *was* hot)
Replaced swirl pot cap
Engine got to 90 degrees - and fans kicked in
Engine went above 90. stopped engine.
Started engine after 5 mins and then went round the block
Stopped at house, and temp still just over 90 degrees
So, is there still air in the system?
Any advice would be great...
Cheers
Nosh.
try to check ur expansion tank casue sometimes after flushing the whole system ,it gets empty!!!
Nosh said:
....I don't know if I done the water stuff ok.......
Changed rad, water pump, thermostat (larger bore and 82 degrees one) and did the following.......
Undid the bleed screw on rad.
Filled the expansion tank.
Filled the swirl pot, until all the air escaped from the rad, via the bleed screw.
Tightened up the bleed screw on rad.
STARTED ENGINE
Kept topping up the swirl pot with anti-freeze & water fluid until I *thought* the thermostat opened
Filled swirl pot with fluid (still had bubbles coming up, but the water *was* hot)
Replaced swirl pot cap
Engine got to 90 degrees - and fans kicked in
Engine went above 90. stopped engine.
Started engine after 5 mins and then went round the block
Stopped at house, and temp still just over 90 degrees
So, is there still air in the system?
Any advice would be great...
Cheers
Nosh.
Changed rad, water pump, thermostat (larger bore and 82 degrees one) and did the following.......
Undid the bleed screw on rad.
Filled the expansion tank.
Filled the swirl pot, until all the air escaped from the rad, via the bleed screw.
Tightened up the bleed screw on rad.
STARTED ENGINE
Kept topping up the swirl pot with anti-freeze & water fluid until I *thought* the thermostat opened
Filled swirl pot with fluid (still had bubbles coming up, but the water *was* hot)
Replaced swirl pot cap
Engine got to 90 degrees - and fans kicked in
Engine went above 90. stopped engine.
Started engine after 5 mins and then went round the block
Stopped at house, and temp still just over 90 degrees
So, is there still air in the system?
Any advice would be great...
Cheers
Nosh.
V8FROG said:
try to check ur expansion tank casue sometimes after flushing the whole system ,it gets empty!!!
Nope - it is 3/4s full....Went out just now and the temp was 75-80 at speed, but 90 at a stand (and sometimes just over)...
Perhaps a few more heat cycles are required....
Nosh.
Was the heater 'on' when you drained the system - does it produce hot air now?
It might just need a couple of goes at bleeding it; presumably you've checked the swirl pot since you had it running.
If you haven't already used the search facility, there are a few posts on here and in Griff section about bleeding the system.
It might just need a couple of goes at bleeding it; presumably you've checked the swirl pot since you had it running.
If you haven't already used the search facility, there are a few posts on here and in Griff section about bleeding the system.
tonys said:
Was the heater 'on' when you drained the system - does it produce hot air now?
It might just need a couple of goes at bleeding it; presumably you've checked the swirl pot since you had it running.
If you haven't already used the search facility, there are a few posts on here and in Griff section about bleeding the system.
Cheers Tony - yes, the heater was on.It might just need a couple of goes at bleeding it; presumably you've checked the swirl pot since you had it running.
If you haven't already used the search facility, there are a few posts on here and in Griff section about bleeding the system.
Gonna do a another 'check' tonight.
Cheers
Nosh
Harrytsg said:
It could be that either the heater valve isnt operating correctly (you can check its moving fully by lying on your back in the passenger footwell), or, you have an air lock.
Sorry to hijack someone elses thread, but what would I need to be looking for and can I access it from behind the carpet?Is it a tough/expensive job to change the valve ?
Cheers in advance for your help
Graeme
Its on the underside of the dash, hence lying on your back, from memory it is quite obvious when your there, rubber hose either side and a cable to operate the valve (from your dash control). I doubt its a unique TVR item and seems accessible enough to change (but I havent replaced mine so not 100% sure), hoses will (should) be full of water so will require draining or it will rain on your head, bleeding, with the valve open, as per discussion on plenty of threads on here, via the swirl pot and expansion tank.
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