100 amp fuse box

[Moses78]

Hello, this is my first post on here as a new (2 week) Chim owner and I was hoping for a little advice. My Cim (4.5, 1997) was running fine, started quickly and lots of power, until it suddenly started cutting in and out quickly before finally dying. I tried to restart it, but heard nothing from the fuel pump so thought that was the culprit until I realised that the battery was also flat and wouldn't turn the engine over. Shortly before the breakdown the radio turned itself off which I assume is related. There were no snags with starting and I'd been driving it regularly (my new toy!) before it broke so the battery had plenty of time to charge.

That's the background anyway. I read on here that the 100amp fuse may be the culprit so I got the car up on stands and have had a look. The fuse is fine and in one piece (although there's a little oil on the components around here....) but the box itself has melted in on the black cable (left as you look at it) side. The contact on the fuse seems fine, but the box is distorted so that the fuse is bent, and the bolt that holds it is now at an angle. Is this a probable cause for my snag or am I being spoofed by something? I decided to replace the box anyway with the slightly chunkier fuse from Steve Heath, but the screws that hold it just spin instead of coming out. I can't see behind it, so the short question to this long story is...is it a captive nut or is there a bolt on the other side that I need to hold? And if so what size is it?

Sorry for the lengthy question, but I wanted to make sure you had all the info. I'd really appreciate any help to get my Chim going again, but as you can see above, I'm not the most practical person!

[Jonny cobra]

Hi I had the same problem on my Chim . Got new fuse and holder the screws did spin on mine also si i put zipper tyes to the chassis its fine , When i get the car high enough i will fit it properly ,

Hope that helps .

John.

[Andy JB]

Don't aopologise - thats what the forum is for, even if its been asked before contrary to popular belief.

You can get holders and fuses & it sound like you are best to refit both. Remember there is another 100amp fuse near the ECU in the passgenger footwell. It may be wise to replace this one at the same time for peace of mind, they do appear to be a serviceable item especially the exposed one underneath. It sounds like yours has shorted out & melted.

I had one go in France on a Bank holiday weekend Sunday - fortunately i had a spare, so get a coupke spare too

[MADMAX2]

I've ordered a new fuse holder from TVR Power they are recommending fitting 125amp fuses instead of the old 100amp so I bought 2 one to fit and 1 spare

[BillC99]

I had the same problem ie. flat battery, and it was just a loose connection on the 100amp fuse on the chassis rail

[Moses78]

Ok guys, many many thanks for your help so far. I've replaced the 100 amp fuse, pushed the car out and tried to jump start it but no joy. I disconnected the battery (by undoing the +ve terminal) whilst replacing the fuse as I got a spark off the starter motor when I got the spanner too close. Since I re-connected it, all sorts of odd things have happened, namely that if the battery is connected I get a strange groaning sound even when the ignition is off (it stops when I turn the ignition on) coming from somewhere behind the dash board. Or at least that's how it sounds. The indicator lights on the dash also come on dimly, but don't flash. With the jump leads attached when I turn the key nothing happens although I do get a click from down by the battery. I have used the contact key to turn off the immobiliser, but still nothing. I have disconnected the battery again to stop the noise, and now I'm stumped. Got Green Flag on the way to help, but it's Friday afternoon and there aren't any garages to take it to, so I'm a bit stumped.

Any more help would be great!

[Moses78]

OK another post.

Just had Green Flag out, and he said that the battery was down to 8v. He said that the battery may be knackered, but to give a go charging it. He said that the lack of voltage would probably explain why my electrics are going haywire even when the ignition is off. I'll grab a charger tomorrow and give it a charge but does his explanation make sense? However, I'm now panicking a little as reading through the threads about changing the battery and they all say to always disconnect the negative terminal first. You guessed it, I disconnected the positive one as it was easier to reach. Have I just screwed my car?! Or does the lack of charge in the battery mean that I may have got away with it?

I'm literally pacing up and down and I'm really worried....

[bigdods]

Moses78 said:

OK another post.

Just had Green Flag out, and he said that the battery was down to 8v. He said that the battery may be knackered, but to give a go charging it. He said that the lack of voltage would probably explain why my electrics are going haywire even when the ignition is off. I'll grab a charger tomorrow and give it a charge but does his explanation make sense? However, I'm now panicking a little as reading through the threads about changing the battery and they all say to always disconnect the negative terminal first. You guessed it, I disconnected the positive one as it was easier to reach. Have I just screwed my car?! Or does the lack of charge in the battery mean that I may have got away with it?

I'm literally pacing up and down and I'm really worried....

8v will do some odd things so its likely that a new battery will sort it. Cant see why taking the - or + off first would make a difference but I am not an electrician so maybe someone can help on that front. I know I have never worried about which terminal comes off first, and I have had a lot of flat batteries in my time - until I found out the cause and solved it.

Easiest way to check, leave battery in place and attach jump leads from another car (make sure its engine is off). Then turn your key. The jump leads will provide a solid 12v and you should see everything spring into life.

When you do get this sorted you may find (if you have a standard meta alarm) that it goes off or the hazards flash. This is normal. Once you have the new battery installed and connected , give it a few mins for the alarm to settle down, then disconnect and reconnect the - side of the battery after about 5 secs, then press the plipper on the alarm fob. This will reset the alarm.

[Pink_Floyd]

Moses78 said:

However, I'm now panicking a little as reading through the threads about changing the battery and they all say to always disconnect the negative terminal first. You guessed it, I disconnected the positive one as it was easier to reach.

In a normal car the body work is metal and connected to the negative terminal, so if when undoing the negative terminal the spanner hits the body or engine then it is not a problem, all at the same voltage. If you undo the positive and the spanner hits the body or engine then you short out the battery which is a really really bad thing to do. In our fibreglass cars there is no metal body work to worry about, so no you will not have damaged anything by undoing the positive first.

[chelseawiggie1]

When all else fails Carl Bakers yer man.....

[Moses78]

Thanks again everyone. Battery is out of the car and being charged at the moment so will have another go at starting in a wee while. Here's hoping! If no joy then it'll be a new battery and hopefully the end of the problem, provided that the initial fault was the 100 amp fuse in the first place......

Thanks for putting my mind at rest!

[Moses78]

Thanks again everyone for the help. I recharged the battery (took 30hrs!) and have reconnected it. Car started immediately! Hooray! Now, the battery has 13V when connected and ignition off, drops to 11V during start and gets to 13.9V with the engine at 2000rpm. I take it that this means that the alternator is working fine now? I've left it connected but loose in the footwell as I have to go away for two days and see what the voltage is when I get back. Don't want to go through the whole faff of putting it back in just to find out that it's duff!

I take it that over two days I shouldn't see a significant drop?

Thanks again for all the help, it was awesome to hear it bark into life again, the neighbours are going to be so pleased!

[myph]

with the alarm set you will see the battery drain slightly, especially if its not in peak condition.