Getting an attitude ?
Discussion
Hey all,
Seems my '97 Chim500 is getting a bit of an attitude lately, and is refusing to start when hot! It happened a while back ( 1.5 yrs? ) for the first time and it is happening more and more frequently.
Upon switching off the immobilizer I can hear the fuel lines prime but then when I try to start .... *nothing* . Absolutely nothing happens. Then I wait 5 mins... all fine. Another thing I noticed that I get , on occasion, a 0.5s delay between turning the ignition and having the engine turn over.
When it was serviced last December I asked the garage to check it out but they couldn't find any problems.
ideas?
Seems my '97 Chim500 is getting a bit of an attitude lately, and is refusing to start when hot! It happened a while back ( 1.5 yrs? ) for the first time and it is happening more and more frequently.
Upon switching off the immobilizer I can hear the fuel lines prime but then when I try to start .... *nothing* . Absolutely nothing happens. Then I wait 5 mins... all fine. Another thing I noticed that I get , on occasion, a 0.5s delay between turning the ignition and having the engine turn over.
When it was serviced last December I asked the garage to check it out but they couldn't find any problems.
ideas?
Sounds like the ol' hot start problem, the oldest trick in the book so to speak
Heat soak into the starter makes it stick, new starter probably needed
Apparently you can get a heat shield kit to protect against it altho you may still need to get a new starter motor as well as the damage may be done. Older, wiser PHers will know more I'm sure
>> Edited by prussianblue450 on Tuesday 15th June 14:15
Heat soak into the starter makes it stick, new starter probably needed
Apparently you can get a heat shield kit to protect against it altho you may still need to get a new starter motor as well as the damage may be done. Older, wiser PHers will know more I'm sure
>> Edited by prussianblue450 on Tuesday 15th June 14:15
Yes I have same problem. What will work is if you press the accelerator as you turn the key, not curing the actual fault but less embarrasing than letting a que build up behind you at the petrol pump.
Could be coil or starter motor but as my learned friend already stated the damage has been done. You can get a heat shield from tvr gear but be prepared to wait for ages on delivery. Fuel vapourisation was another suspect but after insulating the rail and fuel lines it still wont fire so we can rule that out.
My car is on its way to TVR Silverstone as we speak to sort out this and many other things, Ill keep you posted
Could be coil or starter motor but as my learned friend already stated the damage has been done. You can get a heat shield from tvr gear but be prepared to wait for ages on delivery. Fuel vapourisation was another suspect but after insulating the rail and fuel lines it still wont fire so we can rule that out.
My car is on its way to TVR Silverstone as we speak to sort out this and many other things, Ill keep you posted
Had the same problem develop on mine last year.
Not wanting to spend any more than necessary, I put the car up on axle stands, removed and stripped the starter motor and solonoid,checked the brushes and gave it a thourough clean.removing any crap, stains or varnish and reassembled.
The next purchase was a sheet of heat shield material which cost about £8.00, which was cut to size and wrapped around the starter and the solonoid and secured with stainless steel wire.I also took the time to clean all the contacts when refitting.
With the correct length socket bars this job should not take more than a couple of hours,and if like me it cures the problem you will not only save yourself the cost of a starter motor,you will also have a big smile on your face knowing you have fixed it yourself.
>> Edited by peter miller on Tuesday 15th June 22:25
Not wanting to spend any more than necessary, I put the car up on axle stands, removed and stripped the starter motor and solonoid,checked the brushes and gave it a thourough clean.removing any crap, stains or varnish and reassembled.
The next purchase was a sheet of heat shield material which cost about £8.00, which was cut to size and wrapped around the starter and the solonoid and secured with stainless steel wire.I also took the time to clean all the contacts when refitting.
With the correct length socket bars this job should not take more than a couple of hours,and if like me it cures the problem you will not only save yourself the cost of a starter motor,you will also have a big smile on your face knowing you have fixed it yourself.
>> Edited by peter miller on Tuesday 15th June 22:25
Peter or anyone else,
Having just equipped myself with some ramps etc I was thinking of doing this too. Is it easy enough to disassemble the starter and solenoid to do an effective job. Also what sort of insulating material did you use, as presumably it needs to be a non-conductive/reflective rather than air-pocket type. (edit - I see in a previous thread that it is radiated heat so obviously reflective is the order of the day, I wasn't sure)
I was wondering if there are any bits of the mechanism where the subtle application of a high-temperature copper based lubricant might help stop these problems.
Also wondered if it might be possible to set up a bit of ducting to carry a stream of air directly over the starter might help too.
Just curious
>> Edited by prussianblue450 on Wednesday 16th June 10:40
Having just equipped myself with some ramps etc I was thinking of doing this too. Is it easy enough to disassemble the starter and solenoid to do an effective job. Also what sort of insulating material did you use, as presumably it needs to be a non-conductive/reflective rather than air-pocket type. (edit - I see in a previous thread that it is radiated heat so obviously reflective is the order of the day, I wasn't sure)
I was wondering if there are any bits of the mechanism where the subtle application of a high-temperature copper based lubricant might help stop these problems.
Also wondered if it might be possible to set up a bit of ducting to carry a stream of air directly over the starter might help too.
Just curious
>> Edited by prussianblue450 on Wednesday 16th June 10:40
Hi all
I purchased a product called a heat reflective mat, 500mmx500mm. it is an aluminised glass cloth designed to protect starters and other electrical componants up to temps of 550 degrees centigrade or 1020f.
It looks similar to the heat protection you will find along the sides of your engine bay or bonnet.
I bought mine from a company called "Rally Design Ltd" mail order from Faversham in Kent. It cost £9.50 plus VAT and P+P, but I would have thought most specialist motor parts suppliers should stock it.
The only advice I can give about the job is that you will need a good quality socket and the correct length bar to remove the top bolt on the starter, which is quite difficult to access, also the higher you can get the car off the ground the better to give yourself some room to manover.
It is advisable to disconnect the battery before attempting to disconnect the main power supply connection as sparks will fly if you short it out by allowing the ratchet or socket bar to touch the chassis. I did not however do this, instead I wrapped the socket bar and ratchet in insulation tape and took great care, also as soon as the lead came off I taped it up and moved it out of the way.
When you have the starter motor off, make sure you have a clean working area and a container to separate all the parts as you dismantle, cos it helps avoid any confussion when putting it back together.
You will find a tin of carb spray degreaser and a scotch pad (as used to prepare surfaces on motor vehicles for spraying) very useful when cleaning.you can by this in any motorfactors,halfords etc, alternatively pinch a scouring pad from the kitchen.
Both the starter motor and solonoid should be thouroughly cleaned, and dont forget to check the brushes are still healthy,
After reassembly wrap the heat shield around the starter and the solonoid separately making sue it is nice and tight, and secure the mat with thin stainless wire spin it around the mat as tight as possible and secure at the ends by twisting together Be careful not to allow the mat to overlap the end,as you dont want it to come into contact with the power supply during use, as this would not be good.
Then replace it and hope for the best!
Best of luck Pete.
I purchased a product called a heat reflective mat, 500mmx500mm. it is an aluminised glass cloth designed to protect starters and other electrical componants up to temps of 550 degrees centigrade or 1020f.
It looks similar to the heat protection you will find along the sides of your engine bay or bonnet.
I bought mine from a company called "Rally Design Ltd" mail order from Faversham in Kent. It cost £9.50 plus VAT and P+P, but I would have thought most specialist motor parts suppliers should stock it.
The only advice I can give about the job is that you will need a good quality socket and the correct length bar to remove the top bolt on the starter, which is quite difficult to access, also the higher you can get the car off the ground the better to give yourself some room to manover.
It is advisable to disconnect the battery before attempting to disconnect the main power supply connection as sparks will fly if you short it out by allowing the ratchet or socket bar to touch the chassis. I did not however do this, instead I wrapped the socket bar and ratchet in insulation tape and took great care, also as soon as the lead came off I taped it up and moved it out of the way.
When you have the starter motor off, make sure you have a clean working area and a container to separate all the parts as you dismantle, cos it helps avoid any confussion when putting it back together.
You will find a tin of carb spray degreaser and a scotch pad (as used to prepare surfaces on motor vehicles for spraying) very useful when cleaning.you can by this in any motorfactors,halfords etc, alternatively pinch a scouring pad from the kitchen.
Both the starter motor and solonoid should be thouroughly cleaned, and dont forget to check the brushes are still healthy,
After reassembly wrap the heat shield around the starter and the solonoid separately making sue it is nice and tight, and secure the mat with thin stainless wire spin it around the mat as tight as possible and secure at the ends by twisting together Be careful not to allow the mat to overlap the end,as you dont want it to come into contact with the power supply during use, as this would not be good.
Then replace it and hope for the best!
Best of luck Pete.
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