Removing manifold tips please.
Discussion
Morning!
Developed a blow from the off side manifold in Le Mans, I have been promised a new gasket from main dealer today, looks straight forward enough to do on the drive? Anything I should look out for when doing this studwise etc? Would it be easier to do on a ramp?
Thanks in advance.
Corin
Developed a blow from the off side manifold in Le Mans, I have been promised a new gasket from main dealer today, looks straight forward enough to do on the drive? Anything I should look out for when doing this studwise etc? Would it be easier to do on a ramp?
Thanks in advance.
Corin
I contemplated it, read the bible and then asked Andy at APM to take a look instead.
Turned out it was worth while as it was actually a damaged CAT, lambda sensor and manifold split that was causing the problem.
The problem was the slight "tickety" noise that sounds like a rocker problem.
Turned out it was worth while as it was actually a damaged CAT, lambda sensor and manifold split that was causing the problem.
The problem was the slight "tickety" noise that sounds like a rocker problem.
Tips for changing manifold gaskets:
1. Have long thin arms and double jointed wrists and elbows
2. Have "savlon" ready for skinned knuckles
3. Have a garage/time/patience
4. Have a local indie do it instead
I have done mine successfully but it is not a nice or straight forward job. Some of the bolts are a b@stard to undo as it's difficult to access them. The drivers side bottom rear bolt was the hardest as access to it is very tricky and unless it is loose anyway it is very hard to get the necessary leverage to loosen it. I ended up lying on my back with both arms wedged up between the chassis, body and starter motor using a spanner modified by my angle grinder to undo the difficult one.
I recommend you undo the difficult one first because if it proves to be too stubborn you can give up without having wasted too much time and effort.
The passenger side is not too bad though.
The putting back together was, for me, a lot easier than the undoing. Remember to use appropriate sealant with the gasket when you put it back together.
Don't snap any of the bolts........and use new ones when you put it back together to avoid future "snapping problems".
I'm sure a dealer or specialist has the tools and techniques to do it with ease, but I didn't and I'm not sure I would bother to do this job myself again!
Good luck.
Paul.
1. Have long thin arms and double jointed wrists and elbows
2. Have "savlon" ready for skinned knuckles
3. Have a garage/time/patience
4. Have a local indie do it instead
I have done mine successfully but it is not a nice or straight forward job. Some of the bolts are a b@stard to undo as it's difficult to access them. The drivers side bottom rear bolt was the hardest as access to it is very tricky and unless it is loose anyway it is very hard to get the necessary leverage to loosen it. I ended up lying on my back with both arms wedged up between the chassis, body and starter motor using a spanner modified by my angle grinder to undo the difficult one.
I recommend you undo the difficult one first because if it proves to be too stubborn you can give up without having wasted too much time and effort.
The passenger side is not too bad though.
The putting back together was, for me, a lot easier than the undoing. Remember to use appropriate sealant with the gasket when you put it back together.
Don't snap any of the bolts........and use new ones when you put it back together to avoid future "snapping problems".
I'm sure a dealer or specialist has the tools and techniques to do it with ease, but I didn't and I'm not sure I would bother to do this job myself again!
Good luck.
Paul.
By the time you've removed the exhaust, starter, Air Flow Meter, Plug leads / caps its not too hard. Just pray previous mechanic was aware of copper slip.
On my early car I had to remove alternator + bracketry & swirl tank to get manifolds out. Its a lot easier to get at some manifold bolts if I'd done this first (wise after event)
Clarkes do a set of open ended ratcheting spanners, these were excellent on the manifolds bolts. Cant use ratchet spanner - cant even get ring spanner on some of the bolts!
Make sure you have loosened off all bolts before you struggle to get some out & then find you cant get 1 out. One of the central lower bolts on each side wont clear the manifold until you can free the manifold from the head slightly.
As usual WD40 night before...
HTH, Dave
On my early car I had to remove alternator + bracketry & swirl tank to get manifolds out. Its a lot easier to get at some manifold bolts if I'd done this first (wise after event)
Clarkes do a set of open ended ratcheting spanners, these were excellent on the manifolds bolts. Cant use ratchet spanner - cant even get ring spanner on some of the bolts!
Make sure you have loosened off all bolts before you struggle to get some out & then find you cant get 1 out. One of the central lower bolts on each side wont clear the manifold until you can free the manifold from the head slightly.
As usual WD40 night before...
HTH, Dave
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