100 amp fuse and its box

[ewan221]

Looks like the 100 amp fuse to blame for my breakdown, only managed to get a quick look but the box itsself is looking a bit burnt. Where is best pace to get a new box and fuse. (edit found them on clever trevor)

Also should I do bit of further investigation to what casused fuse to go ?

Edited by ewan221 on Wednesday 2nd November 17:14

[ewan221]

amywhere else thats not £8.25 p&p maybe ?

[Goaty Bill]

Not much cheaper here;
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-parts-subs...

+ the fuse = 5.06 + vat I believe.

Got mine from Racing Green, probably paid a bit more still, but was passing by them anyway...

Some people may (even loudly) disagree, but I didn't do anything else after changing the fuse. That said, the RAC man had cannibalised my original alternator, and I ended up having to fit a new one at the same time as the fuse... long story, don't ask...


No problems since. I carry a spare fuse now just in case of course.

[Chimpafrolic]

It's just a strip fuse holder.

One here for £3.55 delivered to your door.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STRIP-MIDI-HEAVY-DUTY-FU...

With all the talk of failing 100 amp strip fuses (I think the Yanks call them midi fuses) I fitted a 120 amp one.

Its not really the extra 20 amps, it's the fact that it's a stronger & better design.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MIDI-TYPE-FUSE-30-40-50-...

[TVR Beaver]

Chimpafrolic said:

It's just a strip fuse holder.

One here for £3.55 delivered to your door.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STRIP-MIDI-HEAVY-DUTY-FU...

With all the talk of failing 100 amp strip fuses (I think the Yanks call them midi fuses) I fitted a 120 amp one.

Its not really the extra 20 amps, it's the fact that it's a stronger & better design.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MIDI-TYPE-FUSE-30-40-50-...

+1.. I got a midi fuse holder from e-bay (same make as OE) and two fuses like the bottom ones.. all for less than the delivery cost quoted by said supplier!!

[BIGMIKE1]

As I need to fix my sump leak soon, I think prevention is better than cure so I might aswell change the 100amp fuse while its up in the air. Will one of these 100amp midi fuses from ebay be a straight swap then and the item number given list continous rating and blow rating, would it be the 100amp blow rating???

Edited by BIGMIKE1 on Thursday 3rd November 00:07

[Bassfiend]

BIGMIKE1 said:

As I need to fix my sump leak soon, I think prevention is better than cure so I might aswell change the 100amp fuse while its up in the air. Will one of these 100amp midi fuses from ebay be a straight swap then and the item number given list continous rating and blow rating, would it be the 100amp blow rating???

Edited by BIGMIKE1 on Thursday 3rd November 00:07

Usually you class fuses by the *CONTINUOUS* rating so it would normally be a 100A continuous rated fuse...

Cheers

Phil

[scotty_d]

Ewan go for the Midi Fuse over the strip last much better on the Chim in that stupid place that they fitted them in the first place. At least i can get to the Cerbs in the Engine bay.

Try SH

https://delta.securesslhost.net/~shenglt/catalog/i...

£4.75

What would cause it to go your asking? The strip fuse's tend to crack and break over time due to vibration and where they are located does not help with dirt and water in that area.

It may have been making and breaking for some time hence the burning in that area. Put a new one in and take it from there keep a eye on it and make sure you are getting 13.5v to 14v from the back of the alt and make sure it is charging the battery and there is also 13.5 to 14v there as well.

If you dont get it sorted over the weekend or want a hand next week drop me a txt and i can come down and give you a hand.

Cheers Scott

Edited by scotty_d on Thursday 3rd November 07:39

[Goaty Bill]

Your mileage may vary but;

To be 'on safe side', when replacing my fuse, I picked up a new box/holder.

I didn't actually dive under the car to do it myself, but the chap who did said; "the fuse is gone, but the box looks okay. Should we replace it anyway?"
Took over an hour as it's apparently quite tight in there. Also frustratingly, one bolt (the more difficult to reach) was 1/3 longer than the first one to come out. Typical.
Putting the fuse in only took a couple of minutes.

Might be easier to leave the box alone if it looks okay.
Once mine was out and cleaned, it looked almost as good as new, certainly serviceable.

As you can see from all the advice being given; this little monkey has bitten a few people over the years, and no doubt a few that narrowly avoided being bitten.


Edit;
Good catch there Chimpafrolic.
I will look to get one/two of those as my spare(s) in the future.

Edited by Goaty Bill on Thursday 3rd November 08:27

[ewan221]

[quote=scotty_d].

If you dont get it sorted over the weekend or want a hand next week drop me a txt and i can come down and give you a hand.



Cheers Scott

Thanks Scott but can manage this one - will save your offer for when something a bit more complicated happens :-)

[BIGMIKE1]

Bassfiend said:

Usually you class fuses by the *CONTINUOUS* rating so it would normally be a 100A continuous rated fuse...

Cheers

Phil

So I need to order the blue fuse 100amp continous rating 200amp blow rating then??? Just want to make sure before I order the wrong one and find it either blows all the time or doesn't blow when it should!

What did you end up ordering ewan???

[ewan221]

got this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310355589531 and it was delivered next day :-)

[Alexdaredevilz]

You silly boys, if your going through all that hassel just buy one of these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CIRCUIT-BREAKER-100-AMP-...

[Bassfiend]

Alexdaredevilz said:

You silly boys, if your going through all that hassel just buy one of these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CIRCUIT-BREAKER-100-AMP-...

Gotta say that I've always been wary of high current DC breakers ... used to use them for the charging circuits when I was into in car HiFi years ago and had issues with them welding their contacts when passing fairly constant currents. (Mind you - I used to have issues with the 12v round fuses getting hot enough to melt the fuseholders too...)

The bolt down maxi fuses were definitely the most reliable...

Phil