Camshaft replacement cost...
Discussion
I'm having a few "electrical" issues that I think are ECU loom related (I've replaced just about everything else) and so I'm thinking of getting the entire engine management system and loom replaced and going for a distributorless system that's being done by a dealer for £1795 complete, fitted and mapped.
As the car has done about 70,000 miles and hasn't had a new cam then I'm assuming it's probably quite worn and it seems silly to map a new ECU to an old worn cam so I thought I'd ask about getting the cam replaced at the same time ... was a bit shocked at an additional £1,225 to get the cam replaced - does that seem excessive to anyone else?
Phil
As the car has done about 70,000 miles and hasn't had a new cam then I'm assuming it's probably quite worn and it seems silly to map a new ECU to an old worn cam so I thought I'd ask about getting the cam replaced at the same time ... was a bit shocked at an additional £1,225 to get the cam replaced - does that seem excessive to anyone else?
Phil
Bassfiend said:
I'm having a few "electrical" issues that I think are ECU loom related (I've replaced just about everything else) and so I'm thinking of getting the entire engine management system and loom replaced and going for a distributorless system that's being done by a dealer for £1795 complete, fitted and mapped.
As the car has done about 70,000 miles and hasn't had a new cam then I'm assuming it's probably quite worn and it seems silly to map a new ECU to an old worn cam so I thought I'd ask about getting the cam replaced at the same time ... was a bit shocked at an additional £1,225 to get the cam replaced - does that seem excessive to anyone else?
Phil
I was originally quoted between £700 and £1200, depending on who you go to in the Yorkshire area!As the car has done about 70,000 miles and hasn't had a new cam then I'm assuming it's probably quite worn and it seems silly to map a new ECU to an old worn cam so I thought I'd ask about getting the cam replaced at the same time ... was a bit shocked at an additional £1,225 to get the cam replaced - does that seem excessive to anyone else?
Phil
More info on my thread here - http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Gotta get something done about this electrical problem because it's getting annoying. The "problems" are...
1) Randomly just cuts the engine altogether - no power at all. All electrics seem OK and charging and oil pressure lights stay off whilst engine still rotating. Have to just coast in to side of road and switch off ignition. Leave for 30 seconds and usually restarts fine.
2) Randomly seems to "drop a cylinder" (but it doesn't because the exhaust manifold temperatures don't show one less than any other) - splutters and has no power at all. While it's doing it the main cat bucket glows like a biatch. Cure (again) is to switch off the ignition - wait 30 seconds - and it'll usually start and run fine again.
3) Randomly seems to momentarily switch off the engine (for a second or less) which means that when you next pull up at a junction the stepper motor has reset to closed and therefore revs drop to about 200rpm before the ECU winds open the stepper motor to bring the revs up again.
4) Randomly decides to impose a 4,500 rpm redline instead of 6,000rpm ... this is always a fun one as you don't know when it's going to do it and of course only usually find out when you're overtaking something. Again, the cure is to switch off the ignition - wait 30 seconds - and it'll usually run fine again.
I've changed plugs, extenders, leads, distributor cap, rotor arm, ignition amplifier, coil ... even bought a spare 4.0HC ECU to try but nothing seems to affect it so I'm assuming it's either a short / break in the loom *OR* a distributor fault...
Ah well - it's all fun!
Phil
1) Randomly just cuts the engine altogether - no power at all. All electrics seem OK and charging and oil pressure lights stay off whilst engine still rotating. Have to just coast in to side of road and switch off ignition. Leave for 30 seconds and usually restarts fine.
2) Randomly seems to "drop a cylinder" (but it doesn't because the exhaust manifold temperatures don't show one less than any other) - splutters and has no power at all. While it's doing it the main cat bucket glows like a biatch. Cure (again) is to switch off the ignition - wait 30 seconds - and it'll usually start and run fine again.
3) Randomly seems to momentarily switch off the engine (for a second or less) which means that when you next pull up at a junction the stepper motor has reset to closed and therefore revs drop to about 200rpm before the ECU winds open the stepper motor to bring the revs up again.
4) Randomly decides to impose a 4,500 rpm redline instead of 6,000rpm ... this is always a fun one as you don't know when it's going to do it and of course only usually find out when you're overtaking something. Again, the cure is to switch off the ignition - wait 30 seconds - and it'll usually run fine again.
I've changed plugs, extenders, leads, distributor cap, rotor arm, ignition amplifier, coil ... even bought a spare 4.0HC ECU to try but nothing seems to affect it so I'm assuming it's either a short / break in the loom *OR* a distributor fault...
Ah well - it's all fun!
Phil
Phil, I've been getting some problems a little bit similar to you, in that the engine sometimes cuts out. Only happens when im coasting to a stop going downhill...someone suggested it could be worn cam meaning that it struggles to hold its revs occasionally.
Going on a rolling road tomorrow which will hopefully shed a bit of light on the situation.
Going on a rolling road tomorrow which will hopefully shed a bit of light on the situation.
Bassfiend said:
I'm having a few "electrical" issues that I think are ECU loom related (I've replaced just about everything else) and so I'm thinking of getting the entire engine management system and loom replaced and going for a distributorless system that's being done by a dealer for £1795 complete, fitted and mapped.
As the car has done about 70,000 miles and hasn't had a new cam then I'm assuming it's probably quite worn and it seems silly to map a new ECU to an old worn cam so I thought I'd ask about getting the cam replaced at the same time ... was a bit shocked at an additional £1,225 to get the cam replaced - does that seem excessive to anyone else?
Phil
Sounds alot mate ..I purchased The Megasquirt ,coil packs ,leads,trigger wheel ,wiring loom ,air temp sensor from TVR Extras and had it fitted and mapped for £390.. he fabricated brackets etc and did a very good job ..after a few more mods including injectors i did get it tweaked at a leter date ..As the car has done about 70,000 miles and hasn't had a new cam then I'm assuming it's probably quite worn and it seems silly to map a new ECU to an old worn cam so I thought I'd ask about getting the cam replaced at the same time ... was a bit shocked at an additional £1,225 to get the cam replaced - does that seem excessive to anyone else?
Phil
peaktorque said:
AFM?
Good thinking - I'm also planning on swapping out the fuel pump and filter too - my AFM supposedly measures out OK but obviously that's just when stationary ... it's another reason why I'm thinking of replacing the whole setup as the ECU change includes removing the AFR and using MAP and TPS sensors instead.Phil
4Lmike said:
Phil, I've been getting some problems a little bit similar to you, in that the engine sometimes cuts out. Only happens when im coasting to a stop going downhill...someone suggested it could be worn cam meaning that it struggles to hold its revs occasionally.
Going on a rolling road tomorrow which will hopefully shed a bit of light on the situation.
Mine's been playing up in this way for a good year or more - does it more as we get into winter which makes me think it's electrical rather than mechanical. I did mention my concerns that the cam might be worn a year ago to somone who's regarded as one of the TVR specialists and he said that he didn't think it showed any signs of being worn but then again he didn't actually go delving in to strip it down...Going on a rolling road tomorrow which will hopefully shed a bit of light on the situation.
Phil
SILICONEKID340HP said:
Sounds alot mate ..I purchased The Megasquirt ,coil packs ,leads,trigger wheel ,wiring loom ,air temp sensor from TVR Extras and had it fitted and mapped for £390.. he fabricated brackets etc and did a very good job ..after a few more mods including injectors i did get it tweaked at a leter date ..
Yeah - this place do the DIY "kit" for £1395 but I'm sure it was "only" £995 not long ago ...Who did you get to fit and map yours?
Phil
My car occasionally cuts out at traffic lights, although drives well apart from that and is better since I played around with the base rate. There have been two occasions in my 1.5 year ownership where it won't restart straight away. I've never discovered why.
In the big stack of paperwork I got with the car, the AFM is mentioned as suspect on many occasions (but doesn't explain why or the symptoms), but has never been changed. Looking closely at the connector for the AFM, the wire insulation has split exposing the core, which isn't ideal
The angle the wires sit at from the connector, leaves them fairly susceptible to damp/damaged and I doubt mine is the only one like this. I'm need to repair the connector and see if that resolves matters (my problems are only occasional though and don't seem to be as bad as yours)
In the big stack of paperwork I got with the car, the AFM is mentioned as suspect on many occasions (but doesn't explain why or the symptoms), but has never been changed. Looking closely at the connector for the AFM, the wire insulation has split exposing the core, which isn't ideal
The angle the wires sit at from the connector, leaves them fairly susceptible to damp/damaged and I doubt mine is the only one like this. I'm need to repair the connector and see if that resolves matters (my problems are only occasional though and don't seem to be as bad as yours)
Bassfiend said:
Gotta get something done about this electrical problem because it's getting annoying. The "problems" are...
1) Randomly just cuts the engine altogether - no power at all. All electrics seem OK and charging and oil pressure lights stay off whilst engine still rotating. Have to just coast in to side of road and switch off ignition. Leave for 30 seconds and usually restarts fine.
CHIMPAFROLIC: That seems to point to random loss of ignition to me.
2) Randomly seems to "drop a cylinder" (but it doesn't because the exhaust manifold temperatures don't show one less than any other) - splutters and has no power at all. While it's doing it the main cat bucket glows like a biatch. Cure (again) is to switch off the ignition - wait 30 seconds - and it'll usually start and run fine again.
CHIMPAFROLIC: If the cat glows like a biatch your either getting way too much fuel or more likely a loss of ignition means the fuel is simply not being burnt in the combustion chambers so is finding its way to the already hot cat where it burns like a little pot belly stove.
3) Randomly seems to momentarily switch off the engine (for a second or less) which means that when you next pull up at a junction the stepper motor has reset to closed and therefore revs drop to about 200rpm before the ECU winds open the stepper motor to bring the revs up again.
CHIMPAFROLIC: That sounds like loss of ignition again.
4) Randomly decides to impose a 4,500 rpm redline instead of 6,000rpm ... this is always a fun one as you don't know when it's going to do it and of course only usually find out when you're overtaking something. Again, the cure is to switch off the ignition - wait 30 seconds - and it'll usually run fine again.
CHIMPAFROLIC: Hmmm, loss of ignition or perhaps lack of ignition advance.
I've changed plugs, extenders, leads, distributor cap, rotor arm, ignition amplifier, coil ... even bought a spare 4.0HC ECU to try but nothing seems to affect it so I'm assuming it's either a short / break in the loom *OR* a distributor fault...
Ah well - it's all fun!
Phil
Can you see a theme here Phil?1) Randomly just cuts the engine altogether - no power at all. All electrics seem OK and charging and oil pressure lights stay off whilst engine still rotating. Have to just coast in to side of road and switch off ignition. Leave for 30 seconds and usually restarts fine.
CHIMPAFROLIC: That seems to point to random loss of ignition to me.
2) Randomly seems to "drop a cylinder" (but it doesn't because the exhaust manifold temperatures don't show one less than any other) - splutters and has no power at all. While it's doing it the main cat bucket glows like a biatch. Cure (again) is to switch off the ignition - wait 30 seconds - and it'll usually start and run fine again.
CHIMPAFROLIC: If the cat glows like a biatch your either getting way too much fuel or more likely a loss of ignition means the fuel is simply not being burnt in the combustion chambers so is finding its way to the already hot cat where it burns like a little pot belly stove.
3) Randomly seems to momentarily switch off the engine (for a second or less) which means that when you next pull up at a junction the stepper motor has reset to closed and therefore revs drop to about 200rpm before the ECU winds open the stepper motor to bring the revs up again.
CHIMPAFROLIC: That sounds like loss of ignition again.
4) Randomly decides to impose a 4,500 rpm redline instead of 6,000rpm ... this is always a fun one as you don't know when it's going to do it and of course only usually find out when you're overtaking something. Again, the cure is to switch off the ignition - wait 30 seconds - and it'll usually run fine again.
CHIMPAFROLIC: Hmmm, loss of ignition or perhaps lack of ignition advance.
I've changed plugs, extenders, leads, distributor cap, rotor arm, ignition amplifier, coil ... even bought a spare 4.0HC ECU to try but nothing seems to affect it so I'm assuming it's either a short / break in the loom *OR* a distributor fault...
Ah well - it's all fun!
Phil
Now let's think what could randomly be cutting your ignition
Let's also think why you are able to clear the fault by turning off the ignition & turning it back on again
Lets consider all those ignition components you have quite rightly changed without any luck
Finally let's think about a notoriously unreliable Italian made component under the dash that controls the live feed to the ignition coil
If I were you I would bypass that troublesome Meta immobiliser and see if the fault disappears.
Bassfiend said:
Yeah - this place do the DIY "kit" for £1395 but I'm sure it was "only" £995 not long ago ...
Who did you get to fit and map yours?
Phil
Who did you get to fit and map yours?
Phil
He did avery neet job the only thing was the spark advance was a fit flat but a very nice instalation ..
He also sorted some electrical gremlins for no extra charge .Kevin as a new 70k Dyno.Well worth
giving him a call and he is happy to supply or allow you to bring the kit .
http://www.dyno-tech.co.uk/
Chimpafrolic said:
Can you see a theme here Phil?
Now let's think what could randomly be cutting your ignition
Let's also think why you are able to clear the fault by turning off the ignition & turning it back on again
Lets consider all those ignition components you have quite rightly changed without any luck
Finally let's think about a notoriously unreliable Italian made component under the dash that controls the live feed to the ignition coil
If I were you I would bypass that troublesome Meta immobiliser and see if the fault disappears.
Hey - If I could bypass teh alarm and immobiliser easily I would do! Between them they kill my battery in three days if I don't use the car and that's not even with the alarm on. Now let's think what could randomly be cutting your ignition
Let's also think why you are able to clear the fault by turning off the ignition & turning it back on again
Lets consider all those ignition components you have quite rightly changed without any luck
Finally let's think about a notoriously unreliable Italian made component under the dash that controls the live feed to the ignition coil
If I were you I would bypass that troublesome Meta immobiliser and see if the fault disappears.
Phil
Bassfiend said:
Chimpafrolic said:
Can you see a theme here Phil?
Now let's think what could randomly be cutting your ignition
Let's also think why you are able to clear the fault by turning off the ignition & turning it back on again
Lets consider all those ignition components you have quite rightly changed without any luck
Finally let's think about a notoriously unreliable Italian made component under the dash that controls the live feed to the ignition coil
If I were you I would bypass that troublesome Meta immobiliser and see if the fault disappears.
Hey - If I could bypass teh alarm and immobiliser easily I would do! Between them they kill my battery in three days if I don't use the car and that's not even with the alarm on. Now let's think what could randomly be cutting your ignition
Let's also think why you are able to clear the fault by turning off the ignition & turning it back on again
Lets consider all those ignition components you have quite rightly changed without any luck
Finally let's think about a notoriously unreliable Italian made component under the dash that controls the live feed to the ignition coil
If I were you I would bypass that troublesome Meta immobiliser and see if the fault disappears.
Phil
If its an easy reversible bypass you want, why not PM me?
Chimpafrolic said:
More evidence pointing towards the Meta unit then, your battery really shouldn't go flat in just three days.
If its an easy reversible bypass you want, why not PM me?
I'm on my third battery in two years - if I forget to flip the kill switch before I go away for a few days for work the alarm deep discharges the battery and after a few deep discharges then the battery plates are shot. If its an easy reversible bypass you want, why not PM me?
Phil
I had practically all your symptoms a few years ago, I replaced everything electrical to no avail.
It came to a head when it cut out at about 70 on a very busy M25 in the fast lane, coasted down to about 10 mph then it restarted!.
Took it to Austecs in Crawley and they found an intermitant short behind the fuse box!
It only took me nearly a year to cave in and take it to them......!
It came to a head when it cut out at about 70 on a very busy M25 in the fast lane, coasted down to about 10 mph then it restarted!.
Took it to Austecs in Crawley and they found an intermitant short behind the fuse box!
It only took me nearly a year to cave in and take it to them......!
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