To SC or not to SC?
Discussion
That is the question. So, with regards to forced induction on a TVR Chimaera [or griff] I wondered what peoples experiences have been with it. Would like to hear all experiences of Supercharging/turbo-charging, relative to install, result, any problems, would you do again, costs, etc. Might be of use to anyone contemplating such a move. [I can't at present but some might]. 
Edited by macdeb on Monday 19th December 10:59
Edited by macdeb on Monday 19th December 11:40
Edited by macdeb on Monday 19th December 17:13
Edited by macdeb on Monday 19th December 17:14
Graham said:
im not convinced. to do it properly you need to rebuild the engine as well, adding to the cost, and from the power figures ive seen you can get the same n/a, although drivability may well be different.
the first thing you need to do is drive some coverted cars...
And think what you want from the car. A Taraka tune is about £4K. Any more Power and you start thinking about all of the other mechanical bits inc the chassis. TVR concluded that the 360bhp ish of the AJP was too much for the chassis. JD has tried to cover all bases and has thrown £20K at it so far, add in the cost of the car and a good service that's £35K. Similar to the cost of buying a cheap Chim and a Topcats LSx AFAIK.the first thing you need to do is drive some coverted cars...
I'd certainly do it again.
If you do it, budget to dump the 14CUX and Dizzy at the same time.
Post SC you will need to have the car remapped "period".
If you stick to the 14CUX that means using a very scarce and expensive resource, it cost me over £1000 for the tuning and dyno time.
12 months later I ditched the 14CUX, my choice, as I wanted mappable ignition and wasn't prepared to stay locked into that single mapping source.
The full PnP Megasquirt Package was installed, and another £500 or so spent tuning, result - an amazing transformation.
If you do it, budget to dump the 14CUX and Dizzy at the same time.
Post SC you will need to have the car remapped "period".
If you stick to the 14CUX that means using a very scarce and expensive resource, it cost me over £1000 for the tuning and dyno time.
12 months later I ditched the 14CUX, my choice, as I wanted mappable ignition and wasn't prepared to stay locked into that single mapping source.
The full PnP Megasquirt Package was installed, and another £500 or so spent tuning, result - an amazing transformation.
too early to say, i don't want the topic closed.
Agree with Graham that bearing in mind the investment in the SC kit, all of a sudden you will focus on the "what if" aspect of leaving the original engine untouched. I certainly did. Hence the belt and braces rebuild.
I'll be disappointed if my project achieves only the top end of NA potential, that is 380bhp or so. Regardless, 380bhp NA would suit a race rather than street car. Both John Eales and Rob Robertson separately told me personally (before I settled on the SC route) that acheivaing driveability would be by far their biggest challenge at that output.
Agree that anything over 320bhp, you'll want to spend (if contracting it out) £2k on suspension, £1500 brakes, £1000-£1500 driveline etc. etc. etc.
Yes, all in the car must owe me £35k or so. At £15k (in Spring) for a 2 owner, FSH, 26k miles example 500 it was £5k cheaper than Fernie's would have asked.
Agree with Graham that bearing in mind the investment in the SC kit, all of a sudden you will focus on the "what if" aspect of leaving the original engine untouched. I certainly did. Hence the belt and braces rebuild.
I'll be disappointed if my project achieves only the top end of NA potential, that is 380bhp or so. Regardless, 380bhp NA would suit a race rather than street car. Both John Eales and Rob Robertson separately told me personally (before I settled on the SC route) that acheivaing driveability would be by far their biggest challenge at that output.
Agree that anything over 320bhp, you'll want to spend (if contracting it out) £2k on suspension, £1500 brakes, £1000-£1500 driveline etc. etc. etc.
Yes, all in the car must owe me £35k or so. At £15k (in Spring) for a 2 owner, FSH, 26k miles example 500 it was £5k cheaper than Fernie's would have asked.
I think if you can do it yourself and you buy bits in stages then its definetly worth it.
I expect my conversion to a blower to cost me under £2K, but I already had the right size injectors and the ECU, etc.
I've no idea of the power train on the TVRs, my Dax Cobra chassis/running gear can all take a lot of power. Leaving that aside for now.
Id start with getting the ECU sorted on the standard engine. (£500 to £1200)
Upgrade the injectors to something that will handle your expected power. (around £150)
Then maybe get the engine freshened up if you want to or think to yourself, if something happens to it I will need to get it sorted.
Keep your eye out for a second hand or unused blower on EBay, I've just bought a brand new C38 Rotrex with all the oil cooler setup for £1300. This was the 3rd one I've seen in the last 3 months all going for similar money. I think a new one is around £2500, not 100% sure.
Decide on an intercooler or charge cooler, costs are £200-500 for that.
Youll need to make a bracket to hold the blower (I will be releasing my design in Solid Works for anyone to use if needed)
Longer belt (£20)
Buy a blow off valve (£50)
Get some pipe and start plumbing it in.
Tune it and drive it around, see what breaks, sort the weak bits and enjoy
Easy
Phil
I expect my conversion to a blower to cost me under £2K, but I already had the right size injectors and the ECU, etc.
I've no idea of the power train on the TVRs, my Dax Cobra chassis/running gear can all take a lot of power. Leaving that aside for now.
Id start with getting the ECU sorted on the standard engine. (£500 to £1200)
Upgrade the injectors to something that will handle your expected power. (around £150)
Then maybe get the engine freshened up if you want to or think to yourself, if something happens to it I will need to get it sorted.
Keep your eye out for a second hand or unused blower on EBay, I've just bought a brand new C38 Rotrex with all the oil cooler setup for £1300. This was the 3rd one I've seen in the last 3 months all going for similar money. I think a new one is around £2500, not 100% sure.
Decide on an intercooler or charge cooler, costs are £200-500 for that.
Youll need to make a bracket to hold the blower (I will be releasing my design in Solid Works for anyone to use if needed)
Longer belt (£20)
Buy a blow off valve (£50)
Get some pipe and start plumbing it in.
Tune it and drive it around, see what breaks, sort the weak bits and enjoy
Easy
Phil
JR said:
And think what you want from the car. A Taraka tune is about £4K. Any more Power and you start thinking about all of the other mechanical bits inc the chassis. TVR concluded that the 360bhp ish of the AJP was too much for the chassis. JD has tried to cover all bases and has thrown £20K at it so far, add in the cost of the car and a good service that's £35K. Similar to the cost of buying a cheap Chim and a Topcats LSx AFAIK.
...or a Sagaris.JR said:
And think what you want from the car. A Taraka tune is about £4K. Any more Power and you start thinking about all of the other mechanical bits inc the chassis. TVR concluded that the 360bhp ish of the AJP was too much for the chassis. JD has tried to cover all bases and has thrown £20K at it so far, add in the cost of the car and a good service that's £35K. Similar to the cost of buying a cheap Chim and a Topcats LSx AFAIK.
I am considering the Taraka conversion but would like to hear peoples experience`s with it and is it worth it.Rob i have just received your email, thank you i will be in touch.
Edited by garfys v8s on Monday 19th December 17:30
IMHO the supercharger option is the best power mod you can do to a Chim. I didn't rebuild my engine and have had it checked over after several k miles and she's still running like a good'un. The car is biblically fast, and I haven't had any doubts that the chassis can handle the power - mostly due to the extremely smooth power delivery of the kit. Furthermore, the idle is fine, the low speed drivability is better than standard, and mechanically I've had no problems with the charger. Just a couple of electrical gremlins not-charger related. In short it's a fantastic bit of kit and if its done right, with a decent ECU, I can't see any downsides.
As far as I know, those who talk badly of them either haven't driven them, or have unfortunately had some problems with installation/setup. This is true of all major engine mods and can't I feel be directed at the kit its self. When installed and mapped correctly, the kits are bullet proof and just as quick as an LS installation, for less cost, and with a better noise.
As far as I know, those who talk badly of them either haven't driven them, or have unfortunately had some problems with installation/setup. This is true of all major engine mods and can't I feel be directed at the kit its self. When installed and mapped correctly, the kits are bullet proof and just as quick as an LS installation, for less cost, and with a better noise.
450Nick said:
IMHO the supercharger option is the best power mod you can do to a Chim. I didn't rebuild my engine and have had it checked over after several k miles and she's still running like a good'un. The car is biblically fast, and I haven't had any doubts that the chassis can handle the power - mostly due to the extremely smooth power delivery of the kit. Furthermore, the idle is fine, the low speed drivability is better than standard, and mechanically I've had no problems with the charger. Just a couple of electrical gremlins not-charger related. In short it's a fantastic bit of kit and if its done right, with a decent ECU, I can't see any downsides.
As far as I know, those who talk badly of them either haven't driven them, or have unfortunately had some problems with installation/setup. This is true of all major engine mods and can't I feel be directed at the kit its self. When installed and mapped correctly, the kits are bullet proof and just as quick as an LS installation, for less cost, and wcharge coolerith a better noise.
uumm i fancy one on my car!trouble is wrong comp wrong cam .What is a charge cooler ? What type of welding is involved ..why is the dump valve in a fancy box in the TVR POWER KIT..As far as I know, those who talk badly of them either haven't driven them, or have unfortunately had some problems with installation/setup. This is true of all major engine mods and can't I feel be directed at the kit its self. When installed and mapped correctly, the kits are bullet proof and just as quick as an LS installation, for less cost, and wcharge coolerith a better noise.
Edited by SILICONEKID340HP on Monday 19th December 18:05
carsy said:
Surely you could run one with the stealth cam. As for compression, whats the difference between yours and a standard 5 litre. As the standard 5 litres can run a SC no problem.
Could run it on low boost , 400hp would be nice !think my injectors would cope 22LB and i have megasquirt ..Do you need forged pistons..
anyone got any drawings ..?
Im wondering if it`s possible to run on low boost ,the temptation is always there !
neal1980 said:
hiltonig said:
The supercharger just delivers bags for torque no waiting for turbos to spool up.
With a 4.6L engine before the turbo lag dont really exist 
I will show you at the drag strip next time
! I'll better find some more boost !Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff