Brake Light Problem 95 Chim.
Discussion
Rear brake lights both inop; checked the bulbs, both fine. removed the switch adjacent to pedal arm and circuit tested by connecting both wires with a voltage light; power is present, so not a fuse blown. I'm thinking maybe wiring between fuse box and rear light cluster faulty. The loom runs down left side of car, with connections in cut-out where you would locate the door lock mechanism. All these connections are intact, [all the other rear lights work fine, so a loom problem seems doubtful] any ideas, I dont fancy a dodgy wire goose chase??
When you removed the switch by the pedal, did you check that the switch was actually working?
I had similar symptoms to you, test for voltage at the switch showed 12V there, but switch contact was corroded and not passing current, therefore brake lights wouldn’t work.
If this is the case for you, then if you carefully disassemble the switch and clean the switch contacts then you should get it working again. You may also want to check the switch is positioned far enough away from the pedal for the contact to be made when peddle is depressed.
I had similar symptoms to you, test for voltage at the switch showed 12V there, but switch contact was corroded and not passing current, therefore brake lights wouldn’t work.
If this is the case for you, then if you carefully disassemble the switch and clean the switch contacts then you should get it working again. You may also want to check the switch is positioned far enough away from the pedal for the contact to be made when peddle is depressed.
Also - - check multi-pin connectors behind carpet covered flap on B post/behind seats.
All the rear light wiring is routed along the sills and then over the rear wheel arches at this point. You'll see 3 or 4 of the connectors behind the panel - worthwhile giving them all a spray/clean with WD40 (seperate them first of course ;-)). IIRC there are some both sides, but I think the lights are routed down the passenger side.
Nick
All the rear light wiring is routed along the sills and then over the rear wheel arches at this point. You'll see 3 or 4 of the connectors behind the panel - worthwhile giving them all a spray/clean with WD40 (seperate them first of course ;-)). IIRC there are some both sides, but I think the lights are routed down the passenger side.
Nick
Many thanks to all; not a bad response for a Monday morning!!
Ref the switch scenario, with the wires connected together through voltage checker, both brake lights should illuminate[the circuit is then closed]. The theory behind this should elliminate the switch as being faulty [possibly]. I'll give the bulb holders a wiggle. Its usually something simple with a Trev!!: Just spent some time fiddling with door solenoids inside bodywork as the alarm wouldn't activate correctly, and solenoids would 'chatter' whilst driving. The answer was the switches attached to door sills not positively depressed due to rubbers missing from both doors, which ensure they are pressed home; this then completes the alarm arming as the doors are 'closed'.
Any more brake experiences or suggestions greatly received, I've run out of time today,
Cheers.
P.S I'm due to change engine oil and cannot get my usual Mobil 1 15W-50 anywhere. I've heard its been discontinued. Any ideas, or good alternatives, [nothing to 'full on' I'm not a track dayer]
Ref the switch scenario, with the wires connected together through voltage checker, both brake lights should illuminate[the circuit is then closed]. The theory behind this should elliminate the switch as being faulty [possibly]. I'll give the bulb holders a wiggle. Its usually something simple with a Trev!!: Just spent some time fiddling with door solenoids inside bodywork as the alarm wouldn't activate correctly, and solenoids would 'chatter' whilst driving. The answer was the switches attached to door sills not positively depressed due to rubbers missing from both doors, which ensure they are pressed home; this then completes the alarm arming as the doors are 'closed'.
Any more brake experiences or suggestions greatly received, I've run out of time today,
Cheers.
P.S I'm due to change engine oil and cannot get my usual Mobil 1 15W-50 anywhere. I've heard its been discontinued. Any ideas, or good alternatives, [nothing to 'full on' I'm not a track dayer]
nawarne said:
Also - - check multi-pin connectors behind carpet covered flap on B post/behind seats.
All the rear light wiring is routed along the sills and then over the rear wheel arches at this point. You'll see 3 or 4 of the connectors behind the panel - worthwhile giving them all a spray/clean with WD40 (seperate them first of course ;-)). IIRC there are some both sides, but I think the lights are routed down the passenger side.
Nick
This solved my intermittant brake light problem.......after multiple bulbs, new bulb mounts (Ford Fiesta apparently) and some swearing. The connectors are behind the carpet flap approximately where the passenger would have their left elbow when seated.All the rear light wiring is routed along the sills and then over the rear wheel arches at this point. You'll see 3 or 4 of the connectors behind the panel - worthwhile giving them all a spray/clean with WD40 (seperate them first of course ;-)). IIRC there are some both sides, but I think the lights are routed down the passenger side.
Nick
Oil wise I have Mobil 1 10w40 in my 450 and it runs very nicely since last years service at Power
back onto the brake side i had the same problem, the micro switch is located on the brake pedal and is made of plastic on an early chim, don't no for later ones.. over time this wares down so doesn't make a circuit when putting your foot on the brakes, i glued a button to make the ground down space up on 4 years ago to the plastic shaft of the micro switch, thanx for the post will have to do a permanant fix!
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