oil pressure gauge
Discussion
It is a reasonably easy swap - even a numpty like me managed it after I realised I was being a d
head. (See thread link above).
I used the cheap eBay sender, but the price quoted on the above link is pretty damn good.
And here's the cheap eBay replacement:
head. (See thread link above).I used the cheap eBay sender, but the price quoted on the above link is pretty damn good.
- Jack front of car up and support it on axle stands.
- Locate the oil pressure sender (see picture below). Pull off the spade connector.
- Get an old rag ready.
- Using an adjustable spanner, undo the nut right at the top of the sender where it screws into the bottom of the engine block. Mine was very tight and required significant swearing.
- When you remove the sender, oil will start oozing out of the hole. Bung the hole up with your rag.
- Take a look at the sender you've removed. Chances are, there's an adapter still attached to it - you'll need to undo that and fit it to your new sender.
- If you're using the cheap eBay sender then you can apply some PTFE tape to the threads if you wish, but don't do this if you're using the "original" sender that earths through the body of the sender.
- Remove the rag and screw the new sender into the hole. If it's too small, you haven't fitted the adapter from the old sender - that's what confused me for a while. (I'm very easily confused.)
- Do it up as tight as you reasonably can with a spanner.
- If using the cheap eBay sender, you'll need to make a cable long enough to reach the earthing point just behind the front offside wheel, with ring terminals on each end. Use this to connect the "G" terminal on the sender to earth. For the "live" connection, you can either cut off the existing spade connector and crimp on a ring connector in its place, or make a short adapter wire with a ring on one end and a spade connector on the other end. But if you've used the "original" type sender, you just need to push the existing female spade connector onto the male connector on the sender.
- Fire up the engine, and marvel at your oil pressure. If the oil is cold, it should read 55-60 psi or thereabouts.
And here's the cheap eBay replacement:
Hi how much oil did you lose when you removed the sensor did you have any problems ie having to prime the oil pump. The reason i ask is i am in the middle of trying to fit an oil temp sensor i have found a blank plug on the pump and i want to remove it and get it drilled and taped to take the sensor but i don't want to go through the hastle of priming the pump. thanks
You'll only lose an egg-cup full or thereabouts. I don't think there's a risk of unpriming the pump.
The oil only "oozes" out - it doesn't gush out like it would when you remove the sump plug. If you're quick with an old rag to bung the hole up, you'll hardly lose any.
Obviously, it makes sense to do this when the engine is completely cold.
The oil only "oozes" out - it doesn't gush out like it would when you remove the sump plug. If you're quick with an old rag to bung the hole up, you'll hardly lose any.
Obviously, it makes sense to do this when the engine is completely cold.
Serps don't have much of a problem priming... Pre-serps DO!!!!
If YOU are removing the bung to have drilled & tapped, it is quite probable that the pump will drain back internally.
Remove the pressure switch (higher up the timing cover) and pump oil down the hole using something like an old ATF bottle. That will 99/100 times replenish enough oil above the pump to allow it to prime in this case.
If YOU are removing the bung to have drilled & tapped, it is quite probable that the pump will drain back internally.
Remove the pressure switch (higher up the timing cover) and pump oil down the hole using something like an old ATF bottle. That will 99/100 times replenish enough oil above the pump to allow it to prime in this case.
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